JustPlainJeff
ArboristSite Operative
But isn't it FASTER to use a grinder vs. putting all of the chains on a powerhead to sharpen each one?
Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)
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I don't use a grinder. Some of the Oregon and Tecomec units get good review. Philbert has some good posts about them.
Personally, I would get them all sharp and then sharpen on the saw as needed. If you jam one up you might end the day with a couple to do. I usually use a Granberg jig for mine. Also have a Stihl FG-2 (unobtanium in the US) that I use when I've got a decent number to sharpen.
Lots of grinder fans out there however. I'm sure a few will weigh in shortly.
I had a grinder at one time. Albeit a cheaper one. It did ok once I got the hang of it but I personally had better results hand filing. I sharpen on the saw. On the rare occasions that I run a saw long enough to dull a chain, I am usually tired enough to need a break and will hand file on the tailgate while I catch my breath. Once home, I'll sharpen and clean filter before the saw goes back on the shelf. I don't swap bars very often, when I go to the longer bar, it stays on for the day. I'm sure the grinder folks love theirs but I'll stick with filing. I'm pretty careful and rarely rock a chain and I do keep a spare just in case.
It all depends on how much cutting you do I'd guess. For me and my 10 facecord a year I have more equipment than I need. One good ms460 with 2 bars, 2 pos cheapo poulans that I plan on replacing with a quality saw if they ever quit but they keep cutting. It's easy to get caught up in believing you need umpteen ported fire breathing pro saws with 3 bars each and a bucket of chains. Nothing wrong with that, just easy to cross over from firewood cutter to chainsaw enthusiast. The whole reason I burn wood is to save money, so for me the file is all I need
It all depends on how much cutting you do I'd guess. For me and my 10 facecord a year I have more equipment than I need. One good ms460 with 2 bars, 2 pos cheapo poulans that I plan on replacing with a quality saw if they ever quit but they keep cutting. It's easy to get caught up in believing you need umpteen ported fire breathing pro saws with 3 bars each and a bucket of chains. Nothing wrong with that, just easy to cross over from firewood cutter to chainsaw enthusiast. The whole reason I burn wood is to save money, so for me the file is all I need
Only if you have a lot of chains that are really messed up. I have an oregon grinder I like it, I don't use it much unless a chain is really buggered up.
I like @sundance advice, which I'm trying to do myself. Just get down to a few saws to keep the bases covered and get rid of the rest of them. With buying the ms400cm I haven't really touched any of my other saws and have contemplated getting rid of about half of them.
Never owned a Stihl (except my Kombi powerhead) but it really sounds like they knocked it out of the park with the 400. If it weren't for the sticker price, I'd probably cave in and buy one.
JustPlainJeff
ArboristSite Operative
Hmmmmm. That's a good idea. I've never heard of/thought of that one. I think I'll try that. Much better than continually swapping chains onto a powerhead and bar just to file three or four chains.
Problem is that your question can’t be answered by this group in this thread. A lot of it is personal preference, techniques, situation, etc. That is why there are so many threads, which are worth visiting.
My general advice is: ‘There are lots of ways to sharpen: everyone needs to find something that works for them.’
The method you choose could be independent of the number and variety of chains you sharpen. As noted above, some file guides (e.g. Granberg style) will work on a bar clamped in a vice, if you don’t have the powerhead.
I am a ‘grinder guy’. I literally have dozens of different file guides, grinders, rotary sharpeners, etc., which I like to try and use. I might like to use some of the others, if touching up a chain in the field. Or just for ‘fun’.
But when I have a *large batch of chains to sharpen, I prefer the grinder for consistency and speed.
*Note that when I get a large batch of chains, they are usually damaged, or filed by inexperienced folks, and need a lot of correction.
If you are cleaning up all your chains at once, a grinder is a good choice. But once you get them straight, you might be able to keep up with filing, if you prefer, or ‘finish off’ with a file, which some guys like to do.
Philbert
Broke this down into a few posts, to keep things readable.
If you were to buy a grinder, per your post, I would recommend the Oregon 520-120 grinder. It is a higher quality than the ‘copycat’, grinders, has features that you might appreciate later, will keep more of its value if you decide to sell it later, is supported for parts and warranty, has few things to ‘go wrong’ even after many years, etc.
More importantly, it comes with good quality wheels (which do the actual grinding). Like many things, grinding takes a little knowledge, skill, and experience to get good. Check out the 511a thread (earlier model) for tips and info.
https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/511a-grinder-improvements-tweaks.197073/
Philbert
If you were to buy a grinder, per your post, I would recommend the Oregon 520-120 grinder. It is a higher quality than the ‘copycat’, grinders, has features that you might appreciate later, will keep more of its value if you decide to sell it later, is supported for parts and warranty, has few things to ‘go wrong’ even after many years, etc.
More importantly, it comes with good quality wheels (which do the actual grinding). Like many things, grinding takes a little knowledge, skill, and experience to get good. Check out the 511a thread (earlier model) for tips and info.
https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/511a-grinder-improvements-tweaks.197073/
Philbert
I've owned and used lots of stihl saws and products in my life and I can confidently say the ms400 is the only thing I've used or bought for them that made me wonder why I didn't have one the second they came out. I was the world's biggest fan if the husqvarna 562xp, but the ms400 is faster, more powerful and lighter. (By nearly a full pound according to my shipping scale.) It's ergonomics are very good. Air filter/filtration system is superb for a stihl. (They use the husqy "air injection" set up, plus an actual decent filter design.) It starts just as easy as my carb saws, doesn't matter if it's cold or hot. Yep I'm a fan, and that's coming from a guy that has bought only husqy saws since 2012. I'm actually keen to have my friend that's logs around here use it. He was a stohl guy back in the 070 days then went to husqvarna with the 372xp saws came out, now he's on to a 572xp. I'd really like to say the ms400 will run right there with the 572xp and is a lot lighter. Won't be able to tell till we can get some time to meet up and compare them. The price is kinda steep, but I firmly believe this may be one of the last saws I buy new. Build quality is very good imo. Heck even the av is better then the older saws. It's almost like stihl said "hey, let's take the best aspects of our competition and use them in our saw."
Agree with everything you said! This put my retirement back a few years…probably.
I say probably because my ex was very good at spending but not so good at pitching in to make it or saving it. I’m looking at 3 to 5 years later for retirement with less annual income yet at the same point there’s no guarantee we could’ve retired at my earlier projections due to her spending habits.
I feel the same way about my ported 462s, except I've always been a Stihl fan and a big fan of the 044/440s.
JustPlainJeff
ArboristSite Operative
I'm confused.........You're talking about your 400, which IS a carbureted saw, correct? To my knowledge, the 500i is the only non-carb'd saw in production at the moment, right?
JustPlainJeff
ArboristSite Operative
I've got a 462, and like it a lot as well. I had never really considered having any porting done on any of my saws, and I really don't NEED to do it, as I'm happy with it's performance now. But just for s#$%s and giggles, I might get mine ported. What is the ballpark cost of sending one out to like Jason Egan, or somebody like that to have it done?
JustPlainJeff
ArboristSite Operative
Ya, don't feel like the Lone Ranger on having an ex that was great at spending. Mine used to wear out my checking accounts! And in actuality, she didn't get 50% either. She really got about 30% of liquid assets, half of the house we had at the time, and none of the business. So, really I did okay in the divorce. She also kept her own pension, and I kept mine. That's where I really came out ahead. If we had each claimed 50% of the other's pension, I'd have lost a lot more.
But screw-it, it's over, they're gone, and I've (hopefully you have as well) absolutely moved on, and life is much better.
It's mtronic saw. So electronically controlled carb. The earlier versions had some hot start issues, both for husqy and stihl. This thing just acts like it's got a well tuned standard carb on it. Choke on (no primer bulb) get a fart on 3rd pull, choke off fires on next pull. One pull restarts when hot.
JustPlainJeff
ArboristSite Operative
Gotcha. Two of my saws are mtronic. The 261 and the 462. And they both start the same as your description. Fourth pull when cold starting, and once after that.
Heres my thoughts on file versus grinder, i do both they are about the same speed but the grinder is more precise at holding angles.
I have the Tecomec version of the 520 and like it. What i find is whatever you choose grinder or file you will become used to and will end up preferring to do.
if you get a grinder mount it a chest height and its pretty easy and comfortable to do.
I have the Tecomec version of the 520 and like it. What i find is whatever you choose grinder or file you will become used to and will end up preferring to do.
if you get a grinder mount it a chest height and its pretty easy and comfortable to do.
Just do whatca like and if ur satisfied with the results stick with it .
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