Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

[MustangMike]

Fixed it

Boost is nice, but it is more than that. The VCT, multi valve, FI, and computer engine control that adjust for octane, temperature, etc.

It combines to produce a combination of drivability, power and economy that was not attainable in the past.

In the past you were forced to make lots of choices between drivability, economy and performance. It is really nice to have it all at once.

And yes, my 2019 F-150 truck has a little 2.7 ltr V-6 bi turbo with a 10 speed and I love it! Great mileage and drivability for a full size 4 X 4 truck.

 

[Vtrombly]

Gas or diesel? Any motor should warm up when running unless the thermostat is stuck open. I have seen this happen many times when I turned wrenches for a living. I would swap that out before Winter so that you have heat.

Its gas, The gauge says its warm 175 or whatever and stays there just wont blow any heat or a lot of heat at least.

 

[MustangMike]

Maybe a problem with your heater core.

 

[Vtrombly]

Maybe a problem with your heater core.

During the summer if you turn on the heat it blows hot though wouldn't it not blow heat constantly not just in the winter?

 

[sean donato]

Boost is nice, but it is more than that. The VCT, multi valve, FI, and computer engine control that adjust for octane, temperature, etc.

It combines to produce a combination of drivability, power and economy that was not attainable in the past.

In the past you were forced to make lots of choices between drivability, economy and performance. It is really nice to have it all at once.

And yes, my 2019 F-150 truck has a little 2.7 ltr V-6 bi turbo with a 10 speed and I love it! Great mileage and drivability for a full size 4 X 4 truck.

I understand the tech plays a part, I was having a bit of fun, as, even with the tech end of it the biggest power gains are from a device that was originally made to force air into mine shafts way back when.
I've often wondered why we didn't go to multi valve and vvi long ago. Was pretty normal for smaller engines and all.

 

[sean donato]

During the summer if you turn on the heat it blows hot though wouldn't it not blow heat constantly not just in the winter?

Wonder if it's a dodge thing. From my first cummins (90w250) to the latest one (19 5500) heat has always sucked over winter. Even the 79 has an auxiliary heater core stuffed under the seat.(and thats an old ford) Ran a 94 318 sport truck around for a while and the heat sucked in that too.

 

[Vtrombly]

Ok I looked online and came across that you need to put an OEM Mopar stat in it. I didn't change the stat a rad shop did when my dad had it but supposedly the springs are week in aftermarket stats and it wont get warm enough to shift into OD which is what I'm seeing so maybe it is that.

 

[sean donato]

Ok I looked online and came across that you need to put an OEM Mopar stat in it. I didn't change the stat a rad shop did when my dad had it but supposedly the springs are week in aftermarket stats and it wont get warm enough to shift into OD which is what I'm seeing so maybe it is that.

That should be pretty easy fix for you.

 

[Vtrombly]

That should be pretty easy fix for you.

I guess I figured a 190 is a 190. Is the temp sensor and the thermostat separate where it could show 190 on the gauge but not be working properly?

 

[MustangMike]

Keep in mind, when I started building engines in my old Mustangs (67-70) Both the block and heads were cast iron. Getting an aluminum intake was a big deal (often improved flow, cooled the charge and decreased weight).

There were no aftermarket heads that were affordable for street cars, you did your own work (if you were brave enough). You mostly just learned things from books or from friends (especially friends who were mechanics).

Timing was changed by spinning the distributor and replacing the springs to change the mechanical advance curve.

Most mods usually started with improving the exhaust flow (headers, dual exhaust, low restriction mufflers) and low restriction air filters.

You could build a real screamer with the right mods, but plugs would likely need to be changed every 5,000 miles, oil every 2,500 miles, and you would be lucky to get double digit fuel mileage on the highway (trannys did not have over drive). Anti-freeze also had to be changed regularly and alternators went bad on a regular basis, power steering often failed (or leaked), and if you had AC it had similar problems. Radiator and heating hoses had to be changed on a regular basis.

In short, you spent a lot more time fixing and maintaining your ride than you do now.

As a result, I am thankful for modern technology.

 

[The Shooters Apprentice]

It was changed right before I got it. The gauge warms up to the set level and stays there. During the summer it will blow heat just fine all day long but during the winter its luke warm while going down the highway and at idle its basically cold and the more speed of the fan you give it the cooler it gets too. Only thing I can think of is when its below 30 degrees the motor stays so cool that it cant maintain the temp to keep the coolant warm.

do you have a insulated winter front on the truck?

 

[MustangMike]

During the summer if you turn on the heat it blows hot though wouldn't it not blow heat constantly not just in the winter?

The ones I remember were water to air heat exchangers. Just because the air blows through does not mean the anti-freeze flow is 100%.

It was common for the old ones to be partly plugged due to corrosion, resulting in poor heat.

 

[Vtrombly]

do you have a insulated winter front on the truck?

No and that was the other thing I was wondering the rad and fan in this thing is huge could just be really efficient at cooling it down too.

 

[sean donato]

I guess I figured a 190 is a 190. Is the temp sensor and the thermostat separate where it could show 190 on the gauge but not be working properly?

No it's not. I went through this with my first gen 12v and then again with my big block. The old radiator sprung a leak in the first gen, so I got a new radiator and a cap and t-stat came with it. Put it all in and the truck wouldn't make heat. Pulled my hair out for a while. The parts guy got me a cummins t-Stat, we tossed it in one evening after work and I magically had heat. Put the old thermostat in a beaker of water and tossed it on the hot plate we used to heat rods and it was fully open at 120*f. Way too low. Said 190* right on the bottom of the thermostat.
Fast forward quite a few years and I did the same thing with the big block. I just realized what happened right away. Went straight to ford and found there were 2 offerings a 180* and a 195*. With the 4 core radiator I put in it, they advised the 195* t stat. Makes great heat and it idles right.

 

[The Shooters Apprentice]

I guess that could be true. I am speaking on my own experience. I've seen V10s win many a tractor pulls and I've had many a 24 and 12v attempt to race every one of them have lost. I'm not saying that it wasn't the drivers or otherwise but it doesn't increase my confidence level. No replacement for displacement.

I'll put my 7.3 powerstroke against that V10 any day of the week with a skidsteer on a 10k trailer behind it. The ONLY thing that V10 has over a diesel is higher RPM and probably lower gears so it might feel like fast emtpy. I've owned several gas and diesel trucks, and the gas trucks are always more "sporty" quicker acceleration, higher speeds, heck, my cammed and tuned Chevy 6.0 2500HD with 4:10 rears will smoke almost anything off the line, and pulls decent, but coming over tenderoot hill to the north of me with a load I'll be down to about 45 MPH at the top, where my Powerstroke or the cummins will pull that hill at 65/70 all day every day with the same load.

 

[sean donato]

Keep in mind, when I started building engines in my old Mustangs (67-70) Both the block and heads were cast iron. Getting an aluminum intake was a big deal (often improved flow, cooled the charge and decreased weight).

There were no aftermarket heads that were affordable for street cars, you did your own work (if you were brave enough). You mostly just learned things from books or from friends (especially friends who were mechanics).

Timing was changed by spinning the distributor and replacing the springs to change the mechanical advance curve.

Most mods usually started with improving the exhaust flow (headers, dual exhaust, low restriction mufflers) and low restriction air filters.

You could build a real screamer with the right mods, but plugs would likely need to be changed every 5,000 miles, oil every 2,500 miles, and you would be lucky to get double digit fuel mileage on the highway (trannys did not have over drive). Anti-freeze also had to be changed regularly and alternators went bad on a regular basis, power steering often failed (or leaked), and if you had AC it had similar problems. Radiator and heating hoses had to be changed on a regular basis.

In short, you spent a lot more time fixing and maintaining your ride than you do now.

As a result, I am thankful for modern technology.

even more work if you were running a solid cam. 500 mile valve adjustments if you were lucky. I still have a fe360 in my 73 high boy. Good engine. Leaks like a sieve. I've been blessed to be brought up around 60-70s vehicles. Actually I was the first to modernize when I got my 93 f150. Before that I drove a 75 f250 360 points ignition. Actually hated that truck. C6, full time 4x4, gas hog.

 

[The Shooters Apprentice]

Good morning all. My feet are firmly planted in the 7.3 diesel camp. Good for all types of scrounging.

I'm not a ford guy, but my 01 Powerstroke is the best work truck I've ever owned. Not fast, not pretty, but will pull a 4 cord load of wood out of the hills like its not even there.

 

[Vtrombly]

Here's the diagram I found for it it appears if the heat supply hose goes into the top of the Stat housing maybe ill pull It off and make sure there is no obstruction at the nipple or the line or the hose is collapsing.

 

[chipper1]

Can't believe all this dodge talk, disgusting, you're all reported! .

Sure hope the stat is all it needs Vince.
Easy enough to do a quick flush with a hose on the heater core while you're in there. Supposed to be warmer Saturday, I'm gonna try to get the last of my pressure washing done then.

 

[Vtrombly]

No it's not. I went through this with my first gen 12v and then again with my big block. The old radiator sprung a leak in the first gen, so I got a new radiator and a cap and t-stat came with it. Put it all in and the truck wouldn't make heat. Pulled my hair out for a while. The parts guy got me a cummins t-Stat, we tossed it in one evening after work and I magically had heat. Put the old thermostat in a beaker of water and tossed it on the hot plate we used to heat rods and it was fully open at 120*f. Way too low. Said 190* right on the bottom of the thermostat.
Fast forward quite a few years and I did the same thing with the big block. I just realized what happened right away. Went straight to ford and found there were 2 offerings a 180* and a 195*. With the 4 core radiator I put in it, they advised the 195* t stat. Makes great heat and it idles right.

Can't believe all this dodge talk, disgusting, you're all reported! .

Sure hope the stat is all it needs Vince.
Easy enough to do a quick flush with a hose on the heater core while you're in there. Supposed to be warmer Saturday, I'm gonna try to get the last of my pressure washing done then.

Its looking like the best you can get is the Stant thermostat aftermarket the OEM is NLA from my reading the gates one doesn't work opens at 120 says 195 but guys are saying that's not true the Stant in a 180 Stat but it opens at 180. 34 bucks so worth a shot.