Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

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even more work if you were running a solid cam. 500 mile valve adjustments if you were lucky. I still have a fe360 in my 73 high boy. Good engine. Leaks like a sieve. I've been blessed to be brought up around 60-70s vehicles. Actually I was the first to modernize when I got my 93 f150. Before that I drove a 75 f250 360 points ignition. Actually hated that truck. C6, full time 4x4, gas hog.
I had solid lifter cams in both a 390 and the 427. The FE Ford motors have shaft mounted rocker arms, so the adjustment screw is on the end of the rocker (not in the middle), so they are a real PITA to adjust (with the car running and oil spurting). (The 427 was a 66 Holman + Moody side oiler block with cross bolted mains), so you had to run a solid cam in it (all the oil went to the bearings).

The first things my brother and I usually did was replace the points and condenser with a Mallory Photocell Electronic ignition. They were easy to install and worked really well. We also would replace the stock timing chain with TRW double roller, just to make sure everything stayed in sync.
 
I knew I had this picture, but I could not find it! Finally did!

The year was 1970, I turned 18 and was able to buy a firearm w/o my parents!

I purchased a Remington 870 12 ga. w/28" modified barrel (no vent rib) at Peekskill Gun Dealers for $109-.

I had shot at grouse several times with my Dad's shotgun but had never got one. That changed with my 870!

I was hunting in a swampy area where the Cortland Mall is now. The grouse went down but was not dead.

Rex (w/o any training) ran and retrieved it, did not rip it up, and dropped it at my feet (he knew it was for me).

We drove my Dad's Jeep Wagoneer to and from (not many 4wd vehicles back then).

And yes, I'm wearing high top sneakers instead of boots!
 

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The best truck is the one that always starts and runs good. Think my 5.3 02 z71 motor is toast, waiting on compression results from my mechanic to see if it's worth throwing any money at. Front end is all wonky too so between a motor swap and that it might be a junker. Might of spun a bearing or something in the head, not sure though as anything internal is out if my realm of knowledge repair wise.
How many miles on that? I had one go about 250 and the other was still going when I sold at 326k
 
Anyone know what happened to North by Northwest? This site will not let me send him a message even though it looks like he is posting in another thread???
@North by Northwest Hes in the GMCI thread he has his profile private you cant send him PMs He keeps his stuff relatively private.
 
I bet it's an ear ringer :surprised3:.
Welcome to AS Terry.

Didn't look like it would it would be a problem, not like it was a small opening concentrating the exhaust towards the saw, well at least not any worse than many stihls do.
On the inside of the muffle I made, I put a channel to direct the air flow out the top corner so it flows right above the bar. When I get home I’ll take a pic of that part to show you what I’m talking about
 
Unclear; does the temp gauge drop when it doesn't blow hot air into the cab?
Some heater core circuits require cracking a hose fitting to bleed out air.
Day three on the elm. that 12" leaner branch is on the ground bucked up now.
Took 3' cuts off till I could reach the crotch then it fell two ways.
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About a cord split hauled and in the racks
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At least another 1 1/2 to go. Just got the rounds cut from the 15' of 28" trunk.
Splitters 100' away at the bottom of the steep hill behind Allison. Lots of rolling rounds to the splitter.
Had this happen in TWO saws today. Think it's the first time I've stuck a chain that way and I've cut quite few elms before.
Had to loosen the chain and dig out the swarf. Took a hammer n screwdriver to free the end sprocket on the other bar. Darned stringy elm.
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