Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

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......the 064 my neighbors Crackhead son stole and pawned or traded. Was not a relaible machine, very finicky. I found other saws that were much more reliable in the same performance category.
Your's must of had some sort of mechanical issue. Every 064 I've been around was dang near bullet proof!
 
Another 3 hours in the willow bush. I had a good dead fall willow all cleared and brushed out yesterday. My one good eye needs recalibration. I estimated a 30' saw log. First thing this morning I measured it with my 30' tape. Ran out just about the half way point. 62' but to where the top broke just below the firest real branch. A good 20' or more standing verically on the end of the log. Log was 22" at the butt, 14" where it broke off. What with measuring, a bit of brush cleanance it took right at one hour to geet it all bucked up in 16" rounds.

MS400 is gradually teaching me how to start it. Had a problem cold. Many, many pulls with no result until I recalled "Wasn't there something in the manual about putting it on start'. Warm it is two pulls but they have to be "manly" ones.

Came home with half a load and a big bag of noodles for the neighbor's chickens. That should get me a good bowl of stew or homemade soup. She is a pretty good cook.
 
If this doesn’t give you goosebumps….


🤘🏻🤘🏻🤘🏻



Only one hole?
Find some vids of Tank Traps at Holister Hills...Top Truck Challenge. :D

I never tried it there...my truck would never of made it through...way too small :p
I ran all the other trails, obstacles there, however.
 
I built this 064 from a box of parts last year. It was rough shape, had the wrong flywheel/coil combination, the wrong recoil/flywheel cover, wrong brake handle(1/2 wrap version,) etc.

I ended up cutting a new keyway into the existing flywheel to run the more common unlimited coil. Ebay'ed a recoil. I made a spacer so the guy could run the super-common round-top 066 3/4 wrap brake flag. Ported/machined a brand-new OEM top end for it...I did a pretty mild build on the motor, but it surprised me with how well it still ran, good saws for sure.


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Well, I did have a scrounge show up at my place today. Acquaintance in town asked if I wanted a little bit of firewood (you kinda know how that conversation went.) So he drive over twice with a small load in his trailer each time and I was happy to have it. I'll try to get pics tomorrow before @Cowboy254 catches up and he'll be none the wiser.

Not a big pile, but cut, delivered, and unloaded ain't bad!20230330_194107.jpg
 
I built this 064 from a box of parts last year. It was rough shape, had the wrong flywheel/coil combination, the wrong recoil/flywheel cover, wrong brake handle(1/2 wrap version,) etc.

I ended up cutting a new keyway into the existing flywheel to run the more common unlimited coil. Ebay'ed a recoil. I made a spacer so the guy could run the super-common round-top 066 3/4 wrap brake flag. Ported/machined a brand-new OEM top end for it...I did a pretty mild build on the motor, but it surprised me with how well it still ran, good saws for sure.


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I've heard a couple of you guys mention round top 066 and flat top 066. 🤔 Not sure I know what the difference is?
 
The early saws were "flat tops", it is the shape of the covers. Also, some of them were lighter and had smaller crankcases that can supposedly generate more power. There were also various flywheel/coil configurations that further confuse things.

You have to use the right coil for the flywheel, or it will be off time. I think some of the flywheels may have had keys cut in two different locations so you could choose which one to use.

The lighter flattops are generally sought after by those looking for maximum power to weight.
 
The early saws were "flat tops", it is the shape of the covers. Also, some of them were lighter and had smaller crankcases that can supposedly generate more power. There were also various flywheel/coil configurations that further confuse things.

You have to use the right coil for the flywheel, or it will be off time. I think some of the flywheels may have had keys cut in two different locations so you could choose which one to use.

The lighter flattops are generally sought after by those looking for maximum power to weight.
For example, the 066 red eye from ‘92 that I have is factory rated at 7.8hp out of the box. The others from that era, as well as later showed as 7.0.
big difference, imo, for a stock saw. I still have the Stihl pamplet from back then 🤪
 
The stock 660 and late model 066s were doggy IMO. My personal 066 is a circa 1998 model and runs nothing like the stock version...they respond well to porting. Any of them run quite a bit better with at least a dual port cover. I've added another port to my round-top, so now a triple-port muffler. It runs pretty good, but I'll probably dive into it again and try to utilize the knowledge I've gained since I was into it last time.

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Sorry for the blur, the agency I work for is very anti anything social media.

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I think he meant with a limited coil. I think they tend to mess up the tach readings.
What he said 😆.
That is what I hoped he meant. I didn't want to be buying another junk tach. The other one is on it's way back and my money was refunded. If the coil has a limiter the saw won't send the limit reading to the tach? Another words if my saw is running at 11k and the limit on the coil is 11k wouldn't the tach be reading 11k?
When you lean them out above the coils limit(which is where they will tune to), the tach will go crazy and you won't be able to tune it with the tachometer. I run them up to that point, then a little further and tune them in the wood.
From the testing I've done on the 372s, they have better power with the limited coils(the advance kicks in very early) than with the unlimited. Also with that particular saw(or others running that coil) if you have the idle too high you can start getting into the advance of the coil, then the idle will surge.
 
All the China carbs I’ve tried have been absolute crap.
ok, so only 3… :p. Maybe the 4th will be good?
not gonna find out…
On my Lifan 13 hp Honda clone they put on a carb from Japan, not a Chinese one. I had to rebuild it 2 years ago and replace all the hoses. There was a great youtube video on rebuilding it by a guy who did that for a living. He called the engines "Chondas", Chinese Honda clones.
But the fact Lifan buys Japanese carbs says something.
 
That is what I hoped he meant. I didn't want to be buying another junk tach. The other one is on it's way back and my money was refunded. If the coil has a limiter the saw won't send the limit reading to the tach? Another words if my saw is running at 11k and the limit on the coil is 11k wouldn't the tach be reading 11k?
I recently worked on a 20 stroke Husky powered K12 saw that wouldn't rev past idle. o_O The idle sounded a bit weird which made me get out the visual spark checker and mechanical tach, that calculated out to 1 spark every 10 revolutions. My conclusion, the limiter was on all of the time and a new coil fixed the problem. If this was the case, a saw fluttering between 20 and 2 stroke would certainly mess up an electronic tach.
 
G'day fellers,

Had an itch I had to scratch today so I went out scrounging. I drove up to one of the local designated scrounging areas. There aren't many and they're not all that convenient to get to, this one required a 40 min drive, half of which was a rough dirt road up the side of a mountain. Anyway, thought I may as well have a look. Found this guy.

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You can see the rot in the fat end and I didn't have high hopes but figured that it would at least be dry so I could burn it this year. Turned out to be wrong on both counts, it was very soon solid but pretty green inside. Also, I disturbed a bull ant nest so I picked up my feet pretty quick and moved a few rounds worth down the log. I cut 11 rounds all nice and solid.

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Or to put it another way

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It is an alpine ash, which is one of the less dense eucalypt species. Stihl better than softwood though. The best part about it is the splitting. 3 hits with the fiskars.

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TBC...
 
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