Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

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Ended up lighting the fire tonight. We had carpenters here today and they had the doors open so it was colder inside than I'd like. I had it set as a top-down fire which I don't normally do (I generally do valley and bridge). Worked well and I might make it my normal thing now.

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Tomorrow, I'm taking Cowlad up to the Temora Aviation Museum. Temora is a smallish town in the middle of nowhere that has a great museum. Tomorrow they are taking most of the planes out for an airshow. They have, among many other things, a couple of Kittyhawks, an English Electric Canberra, a P51 and a MkVIII and a Mk XVI Spitfire. It's a 3+ hour drive from here but I'm really looking forward to it.

I warn you all now. There may be pics of "other stuff"... :crazy2:
 
Ended up lighting the fire tonight. We had carpenters here today and they had the doors open so it was colder inside than I'd like. I had it set as a top-down fire which I don't normally do (I generally do valley and bridge). Worked well and I might make it my normal thing now.

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Tomorrow, I'm taking Cowlad up to the Temora Aviation Museum. Temora is a smallish town in the middle of nowhere that has a great museum. Tomorrow they are taking most of the planes out for an airshow. They have, among many other things, a couple of Kittyhawks, an English Electric Canberra, a P51 and a MkVIII and a Mk XVI Spitfire. It's a 3+ hour drive from here but I'm really looking forward to it.

I warn you all now. There may be pics of "other stuff"... :crazy2:
We need your other stuff to balance out all the firewood scrounging you just showed us. :drinkingcoffee:
 
I recently worked on a 20 stroke Husky powered K12 saw that wouldn't rev past idle. o_O The idle sounded a bit weird which made me get out the visual spark checker and mechanical tach, that calculated out to 1 spark every 10 revolutions. My conclusion, the limiter was on all of the time and a new coil fixed the problem. If this was the case, a saw fluttering between 20 and 2 stroke would certainly mess up an electronic tach.
Crazy it even started or ran at all like that. Lends new meaning to the term stroker. :surprised3:
 
I had it set as a top-down fire which I don't normally do (I generally do valley and bridge). Worked well and I might make it my normal thing now.

Top down fires work for me all the time. I don't build fires any other way now.
 
You know how I roll :laugh: .
What about a stihl bar on a dolmar, and with a Carlton chain :crazy2:.

Flush cut some of the stumps out back today.
That's a 36 on the dolly, pulls it like a champ.
The bigger red oak, just reached through. Looked like 75yrs old.
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Double oak.
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The smaller cherry.
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Had a nice fire tonight too. Heard the great horned owls out there. It's normal to hear them here, but we haven't been out much in the evenings yet. Pretty sure I heard at least 3.
Hard to tell, the flames were about 12-15' tall for quite a while, I just kept feeding it :blob2:.
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Great song gotta say the car would be sweet. Always had a thing for Cadillac lead sled convertibles.

Don't want to start another gasoline debate :blob2:. But I saw a you tube video that had me thinking how I buy pump gas for saws. The 1st 1/3 of a gallon of gas is whatever grade the last person got if the gas hose is shared. Next time I buy 93 I'll start with the truck and then the jerry can.
 
Please, do tell how to Top Down Fire Starting
When starting, I shake out the charcoal from the ashes using a sifter, remove the ash.
Kindling on top of charcoal, firewood on top of that then light.
i start out stacking 3 pieces of wood on the bottom. Then 3 pieces slightly smaller on top of that turn 90°. Then some paper in between those pieces. On top of that 3 layers of small kindling each turned 90° from the layer directly below. Light the paper, which gets the kindling burning. As the coals drop they fall on the layers below igniting them. Go get the makings for smores. Wait for the fire to burn down some. Enjoy smores. Best before a meal so as not to ruin your appetite for dessert. Carry on.
 
Looking to get My new truck rust proofed. Anyone out there with any recommended treatments. I might even Fluid film it once a year as a touch up. but I know a pro can do the 1st application better than me.
I'm a fan of Fluid Film. Easy to apply. Make sure to take out the inner fenders to get coverage on the inner lip of the wheel opening. Also make sure they do inside the frame.
 
Sure it can. I don't know how effective it is once rust has started though. I'm sure it would slow it down.
Once rust starts it would really need to be neutralized or removed. But I am betting this would help those vehicles that are getting long in the tooth but not rusty yet.

Both of my primary drivers are 2013. One was owned by a partial snowbird and the other was bought out of state. The snowbird vehicle has a half dozen pinhole bubbles on the box and the out of state one is still rust free and I would like to keep it that way for as long as I can.
 
I agree fluid film can help slow rust. I found out about it when my 02 Silverrusto was to far gone. I found a local body shop that will
  • Removal of wheels and spare tires and protect brake system
  • Where applicable, removal of running boards, under shields and wheel liners
  • Covering of body, engine, transmission, driveshaft and exhaust system to prevent overspray
  • Application of a generous coat of Woody’s ValuGuard Undercoating on complete undercarriage and behind bumpers
  • Application of NHOU clear oil rustproof to the inside of the frame, all body cavities and crossmembers.
    So it will take 2 days but it should be worth it. Like I said I will still fluid film it again once a year in spots I can get to .
 
I agree fluid film can help slow rust. I found out about it when my 02 Silverrusto was to far gone. I found a local body shop that will
  • Removal of wheels and spare tires and protect brake system
  • Where applicable, removal of running boards, under shields and wheel liners
  • Covering of body, engine, transmission, driveshaft and exhaust system to prevent overspray
  • Application of a generous coat of Woody’s ValuGuard Undercoating on complete undercarriage and behind bumpers
  • Application of NHOU clear oil rustproof to the inside of the frame, all body cavities and crossmembers.
    So it will take 2 days but it should be worth it. Like I said I will still fluid film it again once a year in spots I can get to .
What do they charge for a vehicle?
 
I use fluid film on all my equipment. BLO works well also except it has other ingredients like mineral spirits and other drying agents . Pure linseed oil is good but gets gummy if applied too thick.
There are several types of Fluid film . Some are thin to be sprayable others are thick I used the thick type heat it up in a hot water bath and put it in a garden sprayer . And just spray away at the undercarriage. It’s lanolin based so I don’t worry about it dripping onto the ground or me . Actually softens you hands
 
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