Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

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we know that down here! :numberone: had my a/c guy over other day and we tore mine all apart and cleaned the coils on the condensing unit. made a nice difference! quite noticeable inside home! it was in need of a good cleaning. first time to do all 4 sides.
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Ours as well as the rentals get cleaned every spring when the winter covers come off. What I do is soak the condenser coils down with a solution of Dawn diswash detergent and hot water and let it soak for an hour or so and then take a hose with an adjustable spray nozzle on it set to a fine stream and start at the top and of the units and wash them to the bottom or until the water comes clear. All the junk comes out the bottom. Do that every spring plus I check and lube the cooling fan motor.
 
nice vise! if it was mine, i would clean it up!! some handle bumpers would be nice, as well. simple to make. too bad about no swivel. but nbd, i guess u can swivel! lol.... and then paint it gray with some clear. WILTON Machinist vises are nice. i have a 4". maybe it is a 3". cost me S375 back when!! ~ they run 6 700 $ 3/12" these days...

View attachment 1100814
maybe more! HD has a Wilton at $1K or so. easy to go over #2K for some models... but

they are very nice vises!!
So is the new HF vise and it's under 200 bucks. Not made in USA but then today, what is?
 
Would someone please come get a load of mixed hardwood logs, just added to the pile again today. Bring a Semi if you want to, I can load them as well. I guarantee you will leave overloaded if you so desire. I'm on 154 acres north of Toledo, Ohio, 18 miles. Bet I have 50 grand of saw logs stacked up now. Had a blow last night and lost some more trees. Guess I need to put an ad in the for sale section. problem is they aren't for sale, they are free.
 
My friend and me cut this load of firewood the other day,

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Anyway, today was the day I pulled it to his house, and we got it all split/stacked,

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Well, now it's time to cut another load... lol

SR
 
Actually, they can be repaired as the aluminum sheet panels are glued together but it takes a special adhesive and skill to remove and replace them and most body shops lack the skill as well as the adhesive. Before I retired, I worked at a Freightliner dealership and our body and frame shop was eqiupped with and had the skilled body people to do it. They did it every day because late model trucks are a mix of fiberglass glue on panels and aluminum glue on panels.. They would take the damaged panel off with a heat gun, prep the joint with special cleaner and apply the 2 part epoxy, let it cure and stick on a new panel and then prep and paint the injured area. Freightliner and Western Star hoods are actually made in 3 individual pieces which makes collision repair easier and less costly. If you look at a Freightliner hood, you'll see a seam running from the cowl to the grill. That is where they come apart at. Western Stars come apart at the fender transition. The epoxy comes in a huge 2 barrel setup that requires a special gun to apply. Insurance companies pushed that because hoods are so expensive in one piece. Fords aluminum beds are totally glued together. It ain't Elmers Glue All either...lol

Because it takes skill and specialized tools, most body shops cannot do it.

What I found really interesting was frame straightening and riveted together sleeper repairs. They would strip the sleeper and drill out all the rivets with a special drill motor and rivet in a new panel but first they applied a waterproof compound to the seam. Lots of manual work involved but then crash repair on big trucks is always expensive. They would come in on a hook and leave like nothing ever happened. Same with the frames. We had hydraulic rams in the floor with retractable hooks and stantions in the reinforced concrete and they would measure the frames and pull them and make them straight again and then do alignments. I didn't work in the body /frame shop I was a diesel mechanic, worked primarily on big Cats and when it was slow I drove a truck for them. Worked there almost 30 years prior to retirement and it was a fun, well paying job and I made a lot of friends there that I see to this day.

When Cat got out of the on road diesel business, I retired.

The service manager (also retired) and I hunt together. My consuming and expensive hobby. I've hunted in just about every state as well as Canada and the house is loaded with mounts, much to my wife's dismay. She don't like the eyes looking at her all the time... lol Here are just a few Mulies I've shot in Nebraska, Montana and New Mexico... plus our place in northern Michigan
The "special" glues have been around for ages now. 3m, lord fusor, sem,sika, ect all have been making adhesives for these purposes for well over 15 years now.(possibly longer, I only started using it around 2007) From steel, aluminum, frp, to flexible plastics there's loads of options for adhesives. I haven't welded a non structural panel since I was first introduced to the 3m system. They are all very straight forward and easy to use.
The reason panels arnt typically repaired is simple cost factor, it's easier to replace rhe entire panel then patch it. That tailgate was a no Brainer for an insurance adjuster to write off as a replacment. Get the part, paint it and ship it. Least amount of time, liability, and brain power required. Same in heavy trucks, rip the old fender, cab panel etc and replace it. Takes half the skill as a good body worker, less time and the least amoint of liability. Win-win for everyone, but the guy that needs damage or rust repairs done to an older vehicle. Most shops don't want that type of work, because they know the time amd material involved and the liability if something goes wrong and it's traced back to them for a "faulty" repair.
Few years back I glued a "new" fender on my buddies L9000. (New as in it was taken off another hood with a sawzall.) took longer to dry fit and figure out how to clamp it then the actual application of the frp adhesive. Cab corners, quarter panels, dog legs, outer rocker panels, wheel arch panels. Glue them all in. Zero panel warpage, normally very little body work needs done, sand, prime, paint get some panel wax on the Inside and move on.
Some how the pictures got screwed up, the dark blue cab pics are of my 79 f350 back in 2010, doing the off frame restoration, cab corners being glued in with panel bond adhesive. Lower door skins were glued on in the same method. Didnt have pictures of the rear wheel arches, dad said the glue would never work. He welded one side in and i glued the other side in. His side took a good bit more glass to get smoothed out. I wasnt real happy with that, but it is what it is. Still looks good, and cant tell where any of the seams are. Finished it in 2012. White truck same thing cab corners. Thought I had pictures of the shops chevy 1500 pickup and c30 van I learned how to glue panels on. Couldn't find any on my phone. Most recently I did the rear quarter and dog leg on my wife's escape. My methods for clamping have changed a little over the years, but the results have always been pretty consistent.
Point being, if I can get very good results anyone with half a brain can replace panels. It's not hard at all.
 

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Good idea flip. I was Really joking with Steve. When my truck was only a couple months old I put the tailgate down to gas up my 660. I then went over and helped a friend get a trailer load of small Ash wood. When he was done I jumped in my truck and forgot the tailgate was down, and started to swing a turn, BANG. The tailgate hit the jack-stand on my dump trailer. A fist size dent and they had to replace the whole thing. They don’t fix aluminum tail gates.
Unfortunately I have the same ding in my 150 tailgate caused by the same thing Joe. :dumb2: Not bad enough to have fixed. It's one of those things you only do once. I've looked at other trucks and we're not the only ones to have done that.
 
Actually, they can be repaired as the aluminum sheet panels are glued together but it takes a special adhesive and skill to remove and replace them and most body shops lack the skill as well as the adhesive. Before I retired, I worked at a Freightliner dealership and our body and frame shop was eqiupped with and had the skilled body people to do it. They did it every day because late model trucks are a mix of fiberglass glue on panels and aluminum glue on panels.. They would take the damaged panel off with a heat gun, prep the joint with special cleaner and apply the 2 part epoxy, let it cure and stick on a new panel and then prep and paint the injured area. Freightliner and Western Star hoods are actually made in 3 individual pieces which makes collision repair easier and less costly. If you look at a Freightliner hood, you'll see a seam running from the cowl to the grill. That is where they come apart at. Western Stars come apart at the fender transition. The epoxy comes in a huge 2 barrel setup that requires a special gun to apply. Insurance companies pushed that because hoods are so expensive in one piece. Fords aluminum beds are totally glued together. It ain't Elmers Glue All either...lol

Because it takes skill and specialized tools, most body shops cannot do it.

What I found really interesting was frame straightening and riveted together sleeper repairs. They would strip the sleeper and drill out all the rivets with a special drill motor and rivet in a new panel but first they applied a waterproof compound to the seam. Lots of manual work involved but then crash repair on big trucks is always expensive. They would come in on a hook and leave like nothing ever happened. Same with the frames. We had hydraulic rams in the floor with retractable hooks and stantions in the reinforced concrete and they would measure the frames and pull them and make them straight again and then do alignments. I didn't work in the body /frame shop I was a diesel mechanic, worked primarily on big Cats and when it was slow I drove a truck for them. Worked there almost 30 years prior to retirement and it was a fun, well paying job and I made a lot of friends there that I see to this day.

When Cat got out of the on road diesel business, I retired.

The service manager (also retired) and I hunt together. My consuming and expensive hobby. I've hunted in just about every state as well as Canada and the house is loaded with mounts, much to my wife's dismay. She don't like the eyes looking at her all the time... lol Here are just a few Mulies I've shot in Nebraska, Montana and New Mexico... plus our place in northern Michigan
Just put sunglasses on the mounts. Then your wife can't object :laugh: . Lot of good meat in those mulies.
 
our attitude, too! not too bad even at 98f. that is if one does not eat anything.

one of the g/ks yesterday, they had just moved back to TX from CA... and he said... 'i am acclimated now!' 9 yrs old. lol... and i said, good for you... i have been here for years and i am not acclimated to this kind of heat!

kids!!~ :)
Once you start sweating you are all set for the rest of the day. Just keep hydrated. Going from being nice and comfy to the total sweat part is what I hate.
 
Actually, they can be repaired as the aluminum sheet panels are glued together but it takes a special adhesive and skill to remove and replace them and most body shops lack the skill as well as the adhesive. Before I retired, I worked at a Freightliner dealership and our body and frame shop was eqiupped with and had the skilled body people to do it. They did it every day because late model trucks are a mix of fiberglass glue on panels and aluminum glue on panels.. They would take the damaged panel off with a heat gun, prep the joint with special cleaner and apply the 2 part epoxy, let it cure and stick on a new panel and then prep and paint the injured area. Freightliner and Western Star hoods are actually made in 3 individual pieces which makes collision repair easier and less costly. If you look at a Freightliner hood, you'll see a seam running from the cowl to the grill. That is where they come apart at. Western Stars come apart at the fender transition. The epoxy comes in a huge 2 barrel setup that requires a special gun to apply. Insurance companies pushed that because hoods are so expensive in one piece. Fords aluminum beds are totally glued together. It ain't Elmers Glue All either...lol

Because it takes skill and specialized tools, most body shops cannot do it.

What I found really interesting was frame straightening and riveted together sleeper repairs. They would strip the sleeper and drill out all the rivets with a special drill motor and rivet in a new panel but first they applied a waterproof compound to the seam. Lots of manual work involved but then crash repair on big trucks is always expensive. They would come in on a hook and leave like nothing ever happened. Same with the frames. We had hydraulic rams in the floor with retractable hooks and stantions in the reinforced concrete and they would measure the frames and pull them and make them straight again and then do alignments. I didn't work in the body /frame shop I was a diesel mechanic, worked primarily on big Cats and when it was slow I drove a truck for them. Worked there almost 30 years prior to retirement and it was a fun, well paying job and I made a lot of friends there that I see to this day.

When Cat got out of the on road diesel business, I retired.

The service manager (also retired) and I hunt together. My consuming and expensive hobby. I've hunted in just about every state as well as Canada and the house is loaded with mounts, much to my wife's dismay. She don't like the eyes looking at her all the time... lol Here are just a few Mulies I've shot in Nebraska, Montana and New Mexico... plus our place in northern Michigan
Back in the mid 70's I worked for an IHC dealership. I did all the panel repairs on jacknifed rigs that came in. That was a fun job except in the Summer heat. I also did a lot of recall work on failed cab mount hinges that torn the floors up on cabover cabs. The panel work was all heli-arc welded. The crushed roof jobs were the hardest to do. I loved doing those jobs. After the panel work was done we would send the truck out to be painted because we didn't have a spray booth.
 
I know you are not buying, but a local auction has an 85 standard cab in nice condition going off 8/26. Looks like an auto repair shop that the owner may have passed lots of cool stuff I expect to go cheap. I’m looking at a 71 BSA 650 Thunderbolt.
That's like telling a coke addict, "bet you don't want another line" :oops: .
Here's a buddy of mine's old chevy, this is the same guy who's still running a 7900, 81yrs iirc.
This was taken after most everyone else had left the car show, he's on the left.
Screen Shot 2023-07-30 at 10.12.34 AM.png
 
Now we are talking but always keep in mind that a 71 Beezer will have Lucas electrics which are always marginal. I own 5 bikes myself, 3 Trumps including a Centennial Bonneville with a sidecar and a pristine 67 Norton P11A high piped scrambler with the Rickman oil in frame model that I bought completely restored from Marne (Iowa) Triumph some years ago.

Never been overly impressed with non unit or unitized Beezers. One, they are shakers two, inherent leakers and 3, not reliable with the stock Lucas electrics. The 750 Norton I own was completely rebuilt and in Bristol condition before I purchased it. I ride it infrequently. More of an investment (like my Centennial Bonneville and sidecar) than a rider plus I always worry about them getting in a wreck and gawkers putting their greasy hands on them, when I park them anywhere. People just have no respect for other's property toady and both will draw a crowd where ever I park them so I do, do shows but I put up a sign telling people to keep their hands to themselves and I'm always close by to enforce that. Both are really trailer queens. Couple pictures to ponder....
Nice rides.
Welcome to AS/the scrounge thread :).
I run by your place on 23 on a normal basis heading to ohio.
I'm a closet pyro at heart.
There's a few of us here:blob2::blob2::blob2::blob2::rock::happy::cheers:.
 
nice vise! if it was mine, i would clean it up!! some handle bumpers would be nice, as well. simple to make. too bad about no swivel. but nbd, i guess u can swivel! lol.... and then paint it gray with some clear. WILTON Machinist vises are nice. i have a 4". maybe it is a 3". cost me S375 back when!! ~ they run 6 700 $ 3/12" these days...

View attachment 1100814
maybe more! HD has a Wilton at $1K or so. easy to go over #2K for some models... but

they are very nice vises!!
Maybe a nice husky orange ;).
I think this one is 4", iirc I made those jaw covers 5 or 6". I snagged it up with a splitter and a couple saws. When I asked the guy if he wanted to sell it he said he was keeping it because his was broken, I said lets look at it, then showed him how easy it was to repair it, he said sure I'll sell it. I said what do ou want for it, $20, I gave him $40, and he was real please, as was I :).
then it would match the [ - - ] tilt....
Na, hate that grey on the husky clutch covers and other areas of the chassis :baba:.
 
One reason I’ve gotten a lot of pro Stihl equipment… bans on new ICE power equipment.


going to watch the rest of this! even though over my 5 min limit!

little doubt in my mind :popcorn2: give them their way and they will replace earth's biogenics with electric people 1690734569429.png
all this AI stuff is a clear indicator to me! :yes:

the the aliens will be us! 🤩
 
OK here's the rest of the story. My heat/vac buddy works for a company that put AC all through a huge apartment complex. Less than 2 yrs later the complex sold, and the new owners completely remodeled the place and needed all new BIGGER AC units, so they took them all back out and put in new bigger units.

And now you know the rest of the story!

SR
well, enuff of it to move on! :laugh:
 
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