Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

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I hate those sites that don't disclose freight without a mile of clicks too.
In seller's defense; There really is a $ significant cost to ship a part, it doesn't change much to ship 10 parts. So if selling parts is a profit center not just a customer convenience center a freight charge can work to improve dollar per sale numbers. Customer; I gotta order this but freight is high, might as well check and order other maint. parts I'll need sooner or later anyway to spread that freight cost out over $100 of parts instead of just $10.

A MC carb parts company (Nichecycle) sends out jets and other smalls USPS first class, at "cost", they get my business on bigger orders also.
I'll plug them again; pirateship is a great way to buy, print labels, and ship outgoing parts for us little dabblers in selling.
Just did this. One of the plastic clips broke on the fender liner on my tdi, got into the tire and rubbed a big hole in it. Being as it's the one behind the intercooler I figured I should get another one. Ordered a few oil filters, some misc O-rings, new thermostat housing, thermostat and gaskets for it. Spent another $50.00 but shipping was still the same price. Came in a big box with basically no room for packing material.
Dot 3 attracts water. I use Dot 4 or synthetic in everything I own or fix now.

Only 5 doesn’t attract water . It still gets in via the fact every time you hit the brakes the fluid goes down in the master cylinder reservoir. The reservoir lid is vented if it wasn’t after a while you wouldn’t have brakes as the fluid level falls with pad ware

The Dot 5 was a big deal back in the late 70s and early 80s lots of guys put it in their classic rarely used cars . Great it doesn’t attract water but water gets into the master due to condensation . You use the car a couple of times the water being heavier than the fluid sinks .it’s then pumped into the lines .Still all good if you used SS lines . Now here’s the fun part the water makes its way to the caliper where it sits and start rust in the bore since the caliper is cast .

Seen a lot of hardly used cars need new calipers and cylinders much sooner than cars using dot 3 . Now if your driving a high end vehicle that has SS sleeves or SS Billet calipers alls good

As the chart shows the all have Glycol Ether except dot 5 . The 4and 5.1 have Borate Esters to increase the boiling point

https://blog.amsoil.com/dot-3-and-dot-4-brake-fluid-whats-the-difference/View attachment 1107683
Car manufactures still use Dot 3 in most applications and recommend periodically flushing the system
Nice chart! Sums it up well. I have these little test strips that change colors with water concentration in brake fluid. Surprised a few people with them with how much water brake fluid actually holds.
 
Remember this cracked/broken out wheel center?

Resized-20230819-153737-S.jpg


Well, it's a discontinued part, but I found a new one in Germany for $2,200 and that's the only one I found. I checked on having new ones made, Underferth can make them, but they really wanted a blueprint of the wheel from AGCO and there was a two week wait and cost several hundred dollars.

What the above pict. doesn't show, is that the center is bent too, and this is the second one I bent. The first one was replaced by AGCO under warr., but that was LONG ago. What I really wanted was a stronger wheel center, so I decided to have a welding shop cut out the old center, water jet me out a new center out of thicker material, and then weld it in.

Making the thicker center larger in diameter will also add a lot of strength, so here it is,

Resized-20230825-174220-S.jpg


Total cost, $180.00

SR
 
A little bit of trail clearing in my woods from downed trees over the last year and a half. Sasafras and maple, but since I had to cut it anyway it goes on the stacks.
20230825_173321.jpg
Took a trailer load from the neighbor lady that has been sitting in the grass behind her barn for a while. Box elder is not premium wood, but I know she appreciates it not being there anymore.
20230825_185726.jpg
And when I went to start on the cherry logs I got distracted. I used my ground bee locating device (right heel) to identify my fifth nest this season. So I substituted what was available elsewhere on her property and called it a night. I'll go back to the nest with the bee powder one evening.
20230825_194106.jpg
Well, actually, after dinner I did split and stack until dark. The end.
 
Remember this cracked/broken out wheel center?

Resized-20230819-153737-S.jpg


Well, it's a discontinued part, but I found a new one in Germany for $2,200 and that's the only one I found. I checked on having new ones made, Underferth can make them, but they really wanted a blueprint of the wheel from AGCO and there was a two week wait and cost several hundred dollars.

What the above pict. doesn't show, is that the center is bent too, and this is the second one I bent. The first one was replaced by AGCO under warr., but that was LONG ago. What I really wanted was a stronger wheel center, so I decided to have a welding shop cut out the old center, water jet me out a new center out of thicker material, and then weld it in.

Making the thicker center larger in diameter will also add a lot of strength, so here it is,

Resized-20230825-174220-S.jpg


Total cost, $180.00

SR
I love a good local weld shop. Sometimes those guys can work miracles.
 
Remember this cracked/broken out wheel center?

Resized-20230819-153737-S.jpg


Well, it's a discontinued part, but I found a new one in Germany for $2,200 and that's the only one I found. I checked on having new ones made, Underferth can make them, but they really wanted a blueprint of the wheel from AGCO and there was a two week wait and cost several hundred dollars.

What the above pict. doesn't show, is that the center is bent too, and this is the second one I bent. The first one was replaced by AGCO under warr., but that was LONG ago. What I really wanted was a stronger wheel center, so I decided to have a welding shop cut out the old center, water jet me out a new center out of thicker material, and then weld it in.

Making the thicker center larger in diameter will also add a lot of strength, so here it is,

Resized-20230825-174220-S.jpg


Total cost, $180.00

SR
Now we're talking! Good ingenuity!
 
The hydroscopic nature of glycol based DOT fluid is a desirable feature. Water will distribute evenly in solution with the DOT fluid, which raises the boiling point of the water. Silicone based DOT 5 brake fluid is primarily desirable for it's nonflammable, non corrosive properties. Because water will not absorb into silicone brake fluid, it will pool in low areas where it will boil off. Remember that gases are compressible, fluids are not. Once the water boils to vapor it can be compressed and you will get pedal fade. There are other systems that use mineral oil, which has similar advantages and disadvantages to DOT 5.
I would argue that water does not enter the system through the reservoir, since the reservoir cap is sealed with a rubber diaphragm to accommodate fluid volume change. Contaminants most likely infiltrate past the piston seals when the pistons retract back into the bore.
I was just going to reply about the master cylinder cover that opens up into the master cylinder as the disc brake fluid goes down as the pads wear down. This diaphragm is supposed to seal the master cylinder from water.
 
Only 5 doesn’t attract water . It still gets in via the fact every time you hit the brakes the fluid goes down in the master cylinder reservoir. The reservoir lid is vented if it wasn’t after a while you wouldn’t have brakes as the fluid level falls with pad ware

The Dot 5 was a big deal back in the late 70s and early 80s lots of guys put it in their classic rarely used cars . Great it doesn’t attract water but water gets into the master due to condensation . You use the car a couple of times the water being heavier than the fluid sinks .it’s then pumped into the lines .Still all good if you used SS lines . Now here’s the fun part the water makes its way to the caliper where it sits and start rust in the bore since the caliper is cast .

Seen a lot of hardly used cars need new calipers and cylinders much sooner than cars using dot 3 . Now if your driving a high end vehicle that has SS sleeves or SS Billet calipers alls good

As the chart shows the all have Glycol Ether except dot 5 . The 4and 5.1 have Borate Esters to increase the boiling point

https://blog.amsoil.com/dot-3-and-dot-4-brake-fluid-whats-the-difference/View attachment 1107683
Car manufactures still use Dot 3 in most applications and recommend periodically flushing the system
Nice chart.
 
Dot 3 attracts water. I use Dot 4 or synthetic in everything I own or fix now.
DOT4 fluid also attracts water. Some Mfgrs recommend changing the brake fluid annually. I have no argument against that, but I don't change annually because there are always more pressing projects. I do believe it is a good idea. In my brief time doing tech inspections at road America, I saw plenty boiling brake fluid. Everyone was advised to change the brake fluid before bring a car to the track. It was easy to tell who didn't. Synthetic is good. I put it in several vehicles, but you have to be sure the rubber parts are compatible. Beware the DOT5.2. It is not synthetic.
 
G'day fellers,

Went out to the other farm today. My customer was getting short and I'm also getting low on dry wood this winter. I knew of some more dead fallen peppermints from when I was there back in June. I brought Cowgirl and the child slaves and they went for a walk while I started cutting.

20230826_105741.jpg

It was a bit of a tangled mess

20230826_105807.jpg

I cut up a couple of other stems that were down on the slope but then cut a bit of granite with the 241 so changed to the 460.

20230826_121817.jpg

20230826_121915.jpg

As is often the case, there were cracks that allowed water through the logs but given a couple of days, that will dry off. On the upside, it means that it tends to self-split as you cut the log. TBC...
 
With the family loading up, I finished up the main log. There was an area of punk in the mid to lower section then it cleared up again near the base.

20230826_122040.jpg

Doesn't look flash on the ground but comes up ok once split and loaded.

20230826_132718.jpg

20230826_132734.jpg

And finally, delivered. 2 face cord. I put the 'burn now' stuff down the far end and the rest is 'burn next week'.

20230826_151542.jpg

Scrounge on :rock:
 
With the family loading up, I finished up the main log. There was an area of punk in the mid to lower section then it cleared up again near the base.

View attachment 1107725

Doesn't look flash on the ground but comes up ok once split and loaded.

View attachment 1107726

View attachment 1107727

And finally, delivered. 2 face cord. I put the 'burn now' stuff down the far end and the rest is 'burn next week'.

View attachment 1107728

Scrounge on :rock:
It is nice to have helpers. :drinkingcoffee:
 
Remember this cracked/broken out wheel center?

Resized-20230819-153737-S.jpg


Well, it's a discontinued part, but I found a new one in Germany for $2,200 and that's the only one I found. I checked on having new ones made, Underferth can make them, but they really wanted a blueprint of the wheel from AGCO and there was a two week wait and cost several hundred dollars.

What the above pict. doesn't show, is that the center is bent too, and this is the second one I bent. The first one was replaced by AGCO under warr., but that was LONG ago. What I really wanted was a stronger wheel center, so I decided to have a welding shop cut out the old center, water jet me out a new center out of thicker material, and then weld it in.

Making the thicker center larger in diameter will also add a lot of strength, so here it is,

Resized-20230825-174220-S.jpg


Total cost, $180.00

SR
Seems reasonable considering, and it looks great. Now you have a plan for when the next one breaks :cry: .
I had to change out my damaged/cracked rim on my tractor yesterday, but not because of the rim. I was cleaning up some storm damage at the house and a root ball plucked the valve off the rim or pushed it inside, not sure which. All I know is I'm glad that I had electric in the barn, just wheeled my compressor out there(my other hose that would have reached is buried under trees that are on top of the trailer I built last summer), then removed it with an impact. So now I'm running a turf tire and an ag tire on the front(my spare ag tire is also buried on the same trailer), at least I'm only tearing up the yard with the three ag tires lol.
 
Remember this cracked/broken out wheel center?

Resized-20230819-153737-S.jpg


Well, it's a discontinued part, but I found a new one in Germany for $2,200 and that's the only one I found. I checked on having new ones made, Underferth can make them, but they really wanted a blueprint of the wheel from AGCO and there was a two week wait and cost several hundred dollars.

What the above pict. doesn't show, is that the center is bent too, and this is the second one I bent. The first one was replaced by AGCO under warr., but that was LONG ago. What I really wanted was a stronger wheel center, so I decided to have a welding shop cut out the old center, water jet me out a new center out of thicker material, and then weld it in.

Making the thicker center larger in diameter will also add a lot of strength, so here it is,

Resized-20230825-174220-S.jpg


Total cost, $180.00

SR
I was wondering about that when you first posted the picture. I was going to suggest welding it, but I know nothing about welding and I didn't want to sound like an idiot (more - lol).
 
Seems reasonable considering, and it looks great. Now you have a plan for when the next one breaks :cry: .
I had to change out my damaged/cracked rim on my tractor yesterday, but not because of the rim. I was cleaning up some storm damage at the house and a root ball plucked the valve off the rim or pushed it inside, not sure which. All I know is I'm glad that I had electric in the barn, just wheeled my compressor out there(my other hose that would have reached is buried under trees that are on top of the trailer I built last summer), then removed it with an impact. So now I'm running a turf tire and an ag tire on the front(my spare ag tire is also buried on the same trailer), at least I'm only tearing up the yard with the three ag tires lol.
I'm going to install the wheel today, and finish up the job I'm on now, then I can inspect the other side. IF it's cracked up, it's going to get the same treatment as the one above did.

Be VERY careful running a turf and an ag., or you WILL be buying a bunch of frontend parts for that tractor. I don't think those two types of tires have the exact same diameter and that's bad news on a MFWD tractor.

SR
 
I was wondering about that when you first posted the picture. I was going to suggest welding it, but I know nothing about welding and I didn't want to sound like an idiot (more - lol).
Just welding it wasn't the answer, (not strong enough) cutting the whole center out and water jetting a new one out of thicker material to weld in, was.

SR
 
With the family loading up, I finished up the main log. There was an area of punk in the mid to lower section then it cleared up again near the base.

View attachment 1107725

Doesn't look flash on the ground but comes up ok once split and loaded.

View attachment 1107726

View attachment 1107727

And finally, delivered. 2 face cord. I put the 'burn now' stuff down the far end and the rest is 'burn next week'.

View attachment 1107728

Scrounge on :rock:
I've always been impressed with your processed firewood. I'd swear you'd never get anything usable out of those ugly logs you post. But when I see the firewood, it's pretty sound. And to have dry seasoned wood immediately is a plus. I have trouble keeping track of which row of mine is dry and which is not.

Child labor is nice too (lol).
 
I'm going to install the wheel today, and finish up the job I'm on now, then I can inspect the other side. IF it's cracked up, it's going to get the same treatment as the one above did.

Be VERY careful running a turf and an ag., or you WILL be buying a bunch of frontend parts for that tractor. I don't think those two types of tires have the exact same diameter and that's bad news on a MFWD tractor.

SR
Nice. No tree damage at your place from the storms, our winds came from your direction.
Look past the barn, the accessory drive had three trees crossed it. These were yesterday before starting.
Screen Shot 2023-08-25 at 7.14.12 AM.png
Screen Shot 2023-08-25 at 7.17.16 AM.png
This morning.
Screen Shot 2023-08-26 at 8.43.57 AM.png
Screen Shot 2023-08-26 at 8.44.37 AM.png
 
It's amazing how even your tree's, want to be firewood!! lol

We didn't get those really bad winds here, but it did rain hard for a short time.

SR
We were out buying my new to me 60" exmark, had just left the guys house and stopped at the gas station for the girls to use the bathroom, and my wife phone got an alert "tornado warning". I started to open the door to run in and tell them to break it in half, we gotta go, then the power went out there, now I had to run in just to provide light for them to get out. When we left I ran over a 4-5" tree across the road, needed to get to the expressway before it got worse!
Heres what my phone showed there, I wasn't stopping til I was on the highway ;).
Screen Shot 2023-08-25 at 7.02.11 AM.pngScreen Shot 2023-08-25 at 7.02.22 AM.png
 
We were out buying my new to me 60" exmark, had just left the guys house and stopped at the gas station for the girls to use the bathroom, and my wife phone got an alert "tornado warning". I started to open the door to run in and tell them to break it in half, we gotta go, then the power went out there, now I had to run in just to provide light for them to get out. When we left I ran over a 4-5" tree across the road, needed to get to the expressway before it got worse!
Heres what my phone showed there, I wasn't stopping til I was on the highway ;).
View attachment 1107778View attachment 1107779
Good you made it out ok , 👍
 

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