Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

[djg james]

Firewood related question. I have a Heatilator builtin fireplace. Several fireplace inserts have come across CL that looks promising. I'm considering getting one and converting it to my existing 8" double wall pipe. I know nothing about inserts. Is there a offset from the fireplace flue to the existing chimney and how do you deal with it?

Well I missed the most recent fireplace insert on CL. This one was 'free'. I was afraid it was a scam so I replied by email to protect my phone number. Well it went right away. Then I realized the ad was real since it was located in a hoyty toyty neighborhood of St Louis. Wifey probably just wanted it out of the house .

I was wondering if a double-walled flue pipe would work for a fireplace insert. Do I need a masonry flue pipe?

 

[GrizG]

OK, so the 12 gauge saboted slugs are not designed for taking deer ... I think I need to look for some new hip boots!

Accuracy of rifled slugs is often VG, you just have to find what your gun likes. Although rifles are more likely to be more accurate that shotguns, I have seen rifles that will not shoot and shotguns that will, so making a blanket statement is (IMO) rubbish!

My biggest knock on the rifled slugs is the cost, and the fact that I can't reload them. But if you have a gun that shoots them well, they are just as effective as any straight walled cartridge. As I have previously stated, the deer will never know the difference!

Shot placement has more to do with whether a deer drops on the spot or not than the gun or caliber. I have seen deer drop on the spot from a MZ round ball, MZ sabot slug, shotgun slug, and various rifles. A deer hit through the lungs with the same firearms will generally run about 50-60 yds.

Heck, I once knocked a buck clean off his feet and onto his side with a 70 lb compound bow, but the arrow hit the shoulder bone, the arrow head broke, and I never did find that deer. (The arrowhead was the once highly touted Anderson 245 magnum). I never used them again.

Shot placement for sure! I usually double lung deer just behind the shoulder... not to say I haven't shot 'em straight into the front of the chest. Typically they go less than 100 yards and I find them skidded on their nose. I've had a few that fell over where they were shot but they were the exceptions. Most of my deer were taken with a Ruger No 1 in .357 Magnum (a relatively rare caliber in that gun) or a Ruger .44 Carbine of mid-60s vintage. That was when the woods were thick and the ranges short. As the wood matured and the ranges increased I mostly used an 06 or 270 Win. Things like 257 Roberts, 30-30, 45-70, in-line .50, and .44 magnum revolvers have been in the deer woods too. Now... I've been enjoying carrying my .54 Federalist Period, Lancaster style, flintlock with lead balls while being in the woods.

 

[GrizG]

Here's what gets stuffed down the the muzzle of the .54... For scale, the ball is sitting on the muzzle end of a black powder era 45 Colt Peacemaker cylinder. I used to use that cylinder as a pencil holder, now it holds dust. Most of the nickel is missing... Having stuff like that was a pitfall of having Numrich Arms's (Gun Parts) retail store located between my house and club... all manner of things followed me home.

 

[Sawdust Man]

Scrounged up a few loads of oak this afternoon.



This overload caused me to have to fix a dead tire on the way home tonight...

 

[mountainguyed67]

Yeaa, they are swelled up from being kicked in the nuts by Huskies!

 

[gggGary]

Well I missed the most recent fireplace insert on CL. This one was 'free'. I was afraid it was a scam so I replied by email to protect my phone number. Well it went right away. Then I realized the ad was real since it was located in a hoyty toyty neighborhood of St Louis. Wifey probably just wanted it out of the house .

I was wondering if a double-walled flue pipe would work for a fireplace insert. Do I need a masonry flue pipe?

That "heatalator type" chimney pipe CANNOT be used on a woodstove, free standing or insert. Heatalator is a brand name but the basic tell is; if the fireplace does not have doors that tightly seal it's not a "woodstove". A "heatolator type" fireplace needs lots of airflow to keep everything at temps the thin metals can survive. They typically operate at low to negative efficiency. A wood stove system is designed to operate at high temps with only the airflow needed to provide efficient and controlled combustion. You will need a class A chimney, which could be masonry but metal is preferred.
Lots of info here https://woodheat.org/

 

[JimR]

Well I missed the most recent fireplace insert on CL. This one was 'free'. I was afraid it was a scam so I replied by email to protect my phone number. Well it went right away. Then I realized the ad was real since it was located in a hoyty toyty neighborhood of St Louis. Wifey probably just wanted it out of the house .

I was wondering if a double-walled flue pipe would work for a fireplace insert. Do I need a masonry flue pipe?

Do you have s chimney?

 

[djg james]

That "heatalator type" chimney pipe CANNOT be used on a woodstove, free standing or insert. Heatalator is a brand name but the basic tell is; if the fireplace does not have doors that tightly seal it's not a "woodstove". A "heatolator type" fireplace needs lots of airflow to keep everything at temps the thin metals can survive. They typically operate at low to negative efficiency. A wood stove system is designed to operate at high temps with only the airflow needed to provide efficient and controlled combustion. You will need a class A chimney, which could be masonry but metal is preferred.
Lots of info here https://woodheat.org/

Thanks, I kinda had that thought it wouldn't be sufficient.

 

[djg james]

Do you have s chimney?

The double wall pipe goes up through the attic to a wood chimney chase outside. So no.

 

[gggGary]

Well I missed the most recent fireplace insert on CL. This one was 'free'. I was afraid it was a scam so I replied by email to protect my phone number. Well it went right away. Then I realized the ad was real since it was located in a hoyty toyty neighborhood of St Louis. Wifey probably just wanted it out of the house .

I have two high efficiency wood stoves, both were "like new" CL buys at pennies on the dollar, in both cases the wife was NOT letting that dirty bug infested firewood and ash/dust in HER house.
This one is a cat equipped with a class A chimney, it's been our main (90%+) winter heat for going on 15 years now.

 

[MechanicMatt]

Here's what gets stuffed down the the muzzle of the .54... For scale, the ball is sitting on the muzzle end of a black powder era 45 Colt Peacemaker cylinder. I used to use that cylinder as a pencil holder, now it holds dust. Most of the nickel is missing... Having stuff like that was a pitfall of having Numrich Arms's (Gun Parts) retail store located between my house and club... all manner of things followed me home.



View attachment 1133360View attachment 1133359

I have bought a LOT from Numrich

Great place to find parts for older rifles

 

[GrizG]

I have bought a LOT from Numrich

Great place to find parts for older rifles

I have too... but that slowed down when they closed the retail store... a place where iron followed me home.

 

[MechanicMatt]

I have too... but that slowed down when they closed the retail store... a place where iron followed me home.

I have a decent collection of levers, some come home in non-working condition. It’s fun to make them operational again

 

[MechanicMatt]

25-20, 25-35, .44, .300sav, 45-70, .30-30x4, .32spl, .35rem, .405
Had a .308 and a 2 .45’s but traded them off (1860 and a model92)



Oh almost forgot the 3 .22’s and the 44-40 also in the safe

I like the 45-70, funny I carry the Ruger no3 more than the Marlin guide gun

The 39a has a ton of Numrich parts in it and the oldest 94 has a few bits

The 94 is made in 1906, it’s my oldest rifle

I had some older Mausers, but traded it for a .35rem 336 (early perch belly)

My earliest Marlin is the 25-20, 1908

The .405 is from 1909, Winchester model 1895

Kinda jealous of the .44 Carbine, I had a lead on one made in 1976, the 200th year model, guy and I couldn’t come to an agreement on price….

I’d really love to find the Ruger 96 one day, there lever rifle

 

[GrizG]

I have a decent collection of levers, some come home in non-working condition. It’s fun to make them operational again

I mostly bought new internals for S&W revolvers.... I was in there enough that they'd bring the parts bins out to me so I could pick what would work best. Either by design or by chance the S&W parts were not all the same size. For example, there was a range of something like 6 thou in the thickness of cylinder stops. I would pick through the new parts looking for ones that were zero clearance or a bit larger so I could fit them. Repair parts for 1911s too. I need to get a couple leaf type main springs for a couple SxS shotguns so I should reach out to them. Sadly, the guys I knew best have all passed away. Since they sold Auto Ordnance to the Moonies the guys I knew who made those are all gone too.

 

[GrizG]

25-20, 25-35, .44, .300sav, 45-70, .30-30x4, .32spl, .35rem, .405
Had a .308 and a 2 .45’s but traded them off (1860 and a model92)



Oh almost forgot the 3 .22’s and the 44-40 also in the safe

I like the 45-70, funny I carry the Ruger no3 more than the Marlin guide gun

The 39a has a ton of Numrich parts in it and the oldest 94 has a few bits

The 94 is made in 1906, it’s my oldest rifle

I had some older Mausers, but traded it for a .35rem 336 (early perch belly)

My earliest Marlin is the 25-20, 1908

The .405 is from 1909, Winchester model 1895

Kinda jealous of the .44 Carbine, I had a lead on one made in 1976, the 200th year model, guy and I couldn’t come to an agreement on price….

I’d really love to find the Ruger 96 one day, there lever rifle

Yeah... My circa 1965 .44 carbine is different from the newer ones. It lacks an unloading button and the front sight is round in profile. It wears a 4X Ziess of West German origin. It was a great deer rifle when the woods were thick. With all the dead ash, dead hemlock, dead pine and dead red cedar there is a lot more sunlight hitting the ground now. The grasses and high stem count brush are growing again so the .44 carbine may have another life afield (in my hands). For now, however, the flintlock has my attention. Just got thinking that I'm not all that far from needing a very light gun for hunting... The flintlock is definitely not that but the .44 carbine is.

 

[MustangMike]

I could be wrong, but I think I got my set of Herter 348 dies through Numrich. I was not the original owner, but they were still NIB.

They were originally $4.79, but I paid $15.- for them. Still use em.

 

[turnkey4099]

Scrounge of the century!! The guy who rents the pasture where I am cutting the willow bush told me he has some logs I can have. I drove out to look at them today. My God!!!! Looks like almost 1/2 acre covered in logs neatly lined up in rows, single layer. . Eyeball says most around a 20" diameter but I was looking at them from a 100ft away. My experience says eyeball size from a distance is always much much smaller than up close. No brush to clean up, just drive up, buck/load and gone. He wasn't home so I don't know what the species is. Not cottonwood which I don't want.

I can't work them until spring or I'd be putting ruts in his field and my wood yard.

 

[mountainguyed67]

My experience says eyeball size from a distance is always much much smaller than up close.

Yep.

 

[Squareground3691]

Letter rip , tater chip