Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

[MechanicMatt]

Usually, you can clean up the cylinder, buy a Meteor Piston and be back in business. However, first you have to find out why it is burning up. Sounds like either an air leak, or the carb is adjusted too lean (the Hi needle). Luckily, 046s are easy to work on.

Check all your rubber first ... fuel line, impulse line and carb boot. Your seals may also be bad, but often that means the bearings are bad, and the case has to be split.

I did just replace the seals once on my 044 (the bearings were good).

Often if a saw feels "too strong", it is running too lean.

If it’s a screamer, it’s a LEANer

 

[MechanicMatt]

I had a Garmin hand held gps years ago. Think it was called a trex or Trax. Was pretty decent. Map left a snail trail wherever you walked. I don't remember what I paid for it, but I'm certain it wasn't real expensive. Biggest downside to it was it was only as accurate as how ever Many satellites you could hook up too, needed at least 3 or 4 to work. I'm sure they still make something like it.

I’m pretty sure uncle Mustang had a garmin years ago, it had settable “waypoints” just like my hunting app

Shame no cell service, my OnX app is a Game Changer!

 

[MustangMike]

Things, recreational wise, are slowing down, so I'll start a thread on it in a month or so when I start to work on it. Thanks

There are tons of info on it out there if you search. I've also resurrected a lot of them so don't be afraid to ask.

If the problem is not obvious, conducting a pressure / vac test is invaluable, but start with the simple stuff.

For example, have you checked the carb setting? An 046 carb should not have limiters (unless it has been replaced). Check the Hi screw first (top left). Gently turn it all the way in (clockwise) keeping track of how far you turn it till it bottoms. If it is not close to a full turn out (or more) that could well be your problem.

Springs keep the old needle valves from moving. New springs DO NOT come in a rebuilding kit. I had to order them from a Stihl Dealer (they were only 50 cents each a decade or so ago). If vibrations are making your valves move, you need new springs. A full carb rebuild would also be a good idea. Old diaphragms get stiff and don't work right (your impulse line works as an air pump that makes the carburetor work). If the diaphragms are stiff, you don't get enough fuel.

Next, pull the muffler and see if your piston / cylinder is scored. If it is only scored on the exhaust side, that is a heat (or lean) problem. If it is scored on both the intake and exhaust sides, it was likely straight gassed. Running it with a bad cylinder (scoring) can make it go bad fast. Also, if you pull the recoil slowly you should be able to feel the compression. If it is lacking, don't overlook simple stuff like a loose sparkplug.

 

[MustangMike]

I’m pretty sure uncle Mustang had a garmin years ago, it had settable “waypoints” just like my hunting app

Shame no cell service, my OnX app is a Game Changer!

The Garmin worked well but was sometimes very slow. I was hoping there were newer / better things out there.

I carry it for emergencies, but rarely use it. Just takes too long to acquire the satellites.

 

[djg james]

There are tons of info on it out there if you search. I've also resurrected a lot of them so don't be afraid to ask.

If the problem is not obvious, conducting a pressure / vac test is invaluable, but start with the simple stuff.

For example, have you checked the carb setting? An 046 carb should not have limiters (unless it has been replaced). Check the Hi screw first (top left). Gently turn it all the way in (clockwise) keeping track of how far you turn it till it bottoms. If it is not close to a full turn out (or more) that could well be your problem.

Springs keep the old needle valves from moving. New springs DO NOT come in a rebuilding kit. I had to order them from a Stihl Dealer (they were only 50 cents each a decade or so ago). If vibrations are making your valves move, you need new springs. A full carb rebuild would also be a good idea. Old diaphragms get stiff and don't work right (your impulse line works as an air pump that makes the carburetor work). If the diaphragms are stiff, you don't get enough fuel.

Next, pull the muffler and see if your piston / cylinder is scored. If it is only scored on the exhaust side, that is a heat (or lean) problem. If it is scored on both the intake and exhaust sides, it was likely straight gassed. Running it with a bad cylinder (scoring) can make it go bad fast. Also, if you pull the recoil slowly you should be able to feel the compression. If it is lacking, don't overlook simple stuff like a loose sparkplug.

The piston is definitely scored. I knew that when I bought it. I pulled the muffler then and checked, but in my ignorance, didn't think it was too bad. So I bought it anyway. I live in the St. Louis metro area and not too many saws come up for sale. So when I found this 70cc+ saw, I made the 120 mile round trip for it. Impulsive, yes I know.

When I first started it today, I pulled on it and it was pretty hard. Until I remembered the decomp button. My other saw doesn't have one.

When I start working on it, I'll keep what you suggested in mind.
Thanks

 

[Chainsaw Collectors]

I got my first dirt bike today! A Chinese knock off youth size project. Pics tomorrow. I only paid $40.

 

[OH_Varmntr]

Hey guys. I know there are a lot of knowledgeable folks on here.

Looking for recommendation for a handheld GPS (for land use, not water). I am more or less looking for a small landmark in a chunk of very heavily wooded land and want to trace my steps so I am not missing any ground or repeating myself. No cell service in given area so phone apps are not helpful.

Any suggestions?

Phone map apps like OnX do not need cell service. You can download the map you need ahead of time and the app overlays your GPS position onto the map stored on your phone.

When you get out there, you only need your phones' location service on. No cell service required.

You can also mark waypoints and places of interest on the map using their website. They are then synced to the map you download on your phone.

It's similar to what I do when elk hunting out west.

if you use your phone for this task, make sure you bring an external battery pack and a charging cord.

 

[svk]

Thank you guys. Maybe I’ll try the OnX next time I go out there. Worst case I’m out a few bucks for their membership.

 

[djg james]

Went out to the new hoity-toity subdivision near me to scrounge some pallets to stack wood on. Got a few and notice yard sale signs. I'm not a yard sale person, but I am looking for one particular item. I need another electric skillet to melt wax in. I cut woodturning bowl blanks from firewood for my Nephew and coat the end grain in wax.

Nothing at any ot he yard sales in this new subdivision, but the prices were unreal, high, for a yard sale. Drove by an older more established subdivision on my way home and say another yard sale sign. I stopped in and found a few deals. Brother and I still use coleman fuel in out camp stoves. The guy had two full cans there, no price marked. I asked him what he wanted for them and he said $3 each. No dickering there. He had a HD plastic tool box without a tray for $3. Didn't really need it, but I'm trying to get better organized, so it will get used. Last item was a parts case for $1. You know how much these go for new? Some clean up to do, but i can handle that.

So my mini-scrounge for the day set me back a whopping $10.

 

[djg james]

I cleaned them up and noticed the hinges on the clear lid of the Stack On parts organizer have some cracks. I'll carefully shoot some super glue on them and see it that holds. I've already decided this box will be a saw parts box. Bigger sections than in the organizer I've got them now.

Still don't know what I'll use the Popular Mechanics tool box for. But it'll come to me.

 

[djg james]

I got the new pump on the splitter and fired it up. On a dry run, when extending it all the way out, as soon as the wedge hit the plate, it drew the motor down and it died. When restarting and retracting, it did the same thing. Would not stay running even long enough to trip the lever release. I put a piece of wood on and as soon as it hit resistance, it died.

I'm thinking (hoping) it's just an adjustment thing and not something else wrong with it. I do have the set screw in the control valve bottomed out as it was originally with the old pump.

Also, mounting it was a little different. I couldn't reuse the two long bolts that ran through the original pump. I supplied my own (Grade 2?) 1" long bolts because the pump had a mounting flange. The engine/pump doesn't create enough torque to warrant Grade 8 bolts does it? I would think the rubber spider of the coupling would disintegrate if it did.

 

[OH_Varmntr]

I got the new pump on the splitter and fired it up. On a dry run, when extending it all the way out, as soon as the wedge hit the plate, it drew the motor down and it died. When restarting and retracting, it did the same thing. Would not stay running even long enough to trip the lever release. I put a piece of wood on and as soon as it hit resistance, it died.

I'm thinking (hoping) it's just an adjustment thing and not something else wrong with it. I do have the set screw in the control valve bottomed out as it was originally with the old pump.

Also, mounting it was a little different. I couldn't reuse the two long bolts that ran through the original pump. I supplied my own (Grade 2?) 1" long bolts because the pump had a mounting flange. The engine/pump doesn't create enough torque to warrant Grade 8 bolts does it? I would think the rubber spider of the coupling would disintegrate if it did.

I'd imagine you'll need to reset your relief pressure setting. Did you buy this splitter new? Just curious if maybe it was used and the previous owner had their booger hooks on it.

As far as the bolts go, I'm of the type of mindset that everything gets a grade 8 bolt if they're readily available. It's cheap insurance. To answer your question, no the engine doesn't product enough torque to warrant grade 8 bolts.

 

[Lionsfan]

Hey guys. I know there are a lot of knowledgeable folks on here.

Looking for recommendation for a handheld GPS (for land use, not water). I am more or less looking for a small landmark in a chunk of very heavily wooded land and want to trace my steps so I am not missing any ground or repeating myself. No cell service in given area so phone apps are not helpful.

Any suggestions?

I've owned GPS units made by Garmin, Magellan, Lowrance and Rand McNally. I still own 2 of the 3 Garmin units and they have worked flawlessly. The other 3 all went to **** within a year, were replaced/repaired under warranty, and died within the next year. Buy Garmin, or don't buy at all.

 

[Oletrapper]

A few critters stopped by to admire the stacks..View attachment 1177683

OK OK, Where ya hiding the corn pile? lmao

 

[djg james]

OK OK, Where ya hiding the corn pile? lmao

I think he's got a salt block out there somewhere too .

 

[djg james]

I'd imagine you'll need to reset your relief pressure setting. Did you buy this splitter new? Just curious if maybe it was used and the previous owner had their booger hooks on it.

As far as the bolts go, I'm of the type of mindset that everything gets a grade 8 bolt if they're readily available. It's cheap insurance. To answer your question, no the engine doesn't product enough torque to warrant grade 8 bolts.

I bought it new decades ago and never had to mess with the control valve set screw until recently when it was suggested. I counted the turns out and then replaced it the same number in. It's basically a half turn back from bottomed out.

 

[Oletrapper]

People are hammering him on the price. It'll sell though.

View attachment 1177757

What? No bar and chain? lmao OT

 

[Oletrapper]

Thank you guys. Maybe I’ll try the OnX next time I go out there. Worst case I’m out a few bucks for their membership.

They use to have a 14 day trial offer. Don't know if they still do that or not. OT

 

[Oletrapper]

I bought it new decades ago and never had to mess with the control valve set screw until recently when it was suggested. I counted the turns out and then replaced it the same number in. It's basically a half turn back from bottomed out.

1/2 out from bottom out is way too lean. Hope it's not toast. jmho OT

 

[djg james]

1/2 out from bottom out is way too lean. Hope it's not toast. jmho OT

If it is, what would be broken? Fixable?