K, My bad.
Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)
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Here is an example of the rock guards seen on locomotives. If you look at the front cab windows you'll see the guards over the windows, there are also guards for the side and rear windows on the cab. All US railroads now require any of their locomotives being used in Mexico to have these while in country, usually the guards are magnetic mount. Once back in the US the guards are removed from US owned locos (but occasionally you do see some with the guards still left on) but since PTC (Positive Train Control) is not required in Mexico, and their locos are not equipped with it so they are not used as leaders but as trailing power or seen here as a distributed power unit (DPU) at the end of the train, the guards are left on. FXE 4024 here is an EMD SD70ACe sporting the most recent paint scheme from Ferromex.
Getto ride
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That reminds me, another one of our buddies had a nice 81(iirc) Z28, sweet ride. He had an ole Cordoba with a 400 before the Z28, it would just float down the expressway at high speeds lol.My '79 in '86. Fond memories
View attachment 1218799
The only thing I rebuilt on it was the rear chassis and replaced the cam.
Back then all the speeds here were lower.
I don't reload these days, but everything has started to drop, hope that trend continues.
Small world. When I had the '79 Camaro, a neighbor had a '80 Cordoba, like this one (iirc).
If anyone is close to Donegal in SWPA and hurting for primers / powder I may be able to help out.
MechanicMatt
Cut Split Stack Burn
My .300winmag, my Stainless 30-06 m70
Still need your expertise on my .300savage!
And then we’ll work on the 25-35, see if you can get it better than 2in. I’m pulling my hair out on that one. That’s why Cailey sports the .243 now
One day, I’ll have to visit and get the first hand experience so I can close the gap on my 3years into it and your decades of experience
MechanicMatt
Cut Split Stack Burn
They sure are!
My brother in-law has one torn down in his garage. He’ll only part with it when he is 6ft under
MechanicMatt
Cut Split Stack Burn
My Whelen could probably be improved upon, grabbed some 250gr Speers that need to find homes
MechanicMatt
Cut Split Stack Burn
AND….
My 7-08 still isn’t living up to it’s potential….
My 7-08 still isn’t living up to it’s potential….
It starts with research (any load data or recommendations from companies or individuals or articles). Hodgdon Reloading Data is my primary source and is free online.
Based on this information, I try to identify one or more good powders, hopefully that I already have. I often look to find a powder that will provide near maximum velocity at less pressure than other powders in that cartridge. That allows me to start near maximum velocity with less worry. In recent years, I have also been shifting to powders that I can "throw" accurately, instead of weighing every charge (like using H-380 instead of IMR-4350). This saves me a lot of time, and these powders are also often less expensive.
My current favorite powders:
223 - H335
30-30 - LVR
308 - CFE223
270 WSM and 348 (250 gr bullet) StaBALL6.5
30-06 and 338-06 - H380
Next is picking a bullet and determining the correct seating depth. The magazine may be the limiting factor, but if not, I usually try to load the bullet as far out as possible w/o touching the rifling. I start by seating the bullet long, then keep going a bit shorter till the bolt closes easily. I have never found it necessary to crimp bullets, even in my lever guns, so I don't. If your dies are good, your bullet should not move under recoil.
Next is going to the range and seeing how it shoots. If good I go with it, if not I try changing the powder charge, or the bullet, or the cartridge length. Some guns prefer a max (or near max) charge, others get best accuracy with a slightly reduced charge. You will not know till you experiment. Since I'm looking for hunting loads (not target loads) I will usually change the powder charge 1/2 grain at a time and like to use round #s whenever possible. But sometimes, especially when close to max loads, I will go with tenths.
So basically, it is just common sense and hard work! (Adjusting dies and determining if your gun likes full length or neck sizing is a whole new discussion)
You should ALWAYS ensure that your ammo fits and feed right in your magazine, and that it chambers easily and smoothly in your gun. The ammo I load is specific for each individual rifle, not just for any rifle of that caliber.
You may recall last year I reloaded for 3 different 30-06 rifles, and each one preferred something different (all had barrels with 1 in 10 twist).
My Rugar American Rifle shoots very well (and to the same point of aim) with 58 gr of IMR 4350 over a magnum primer w/168 gr Barnes TTSX or 57 gr H-380 (standard primer) and 165 gr Speer BT.
Your Dad's pre-64 Model 70 Featherweight preferred the charge reduced to 56 grains of H-380. It shot both bullets well, but groups were about 2" apart, so we just loaded the Barnes TTSX bullets.
Your post-64 Model 70 Stainless did not like the Barnes bullets but shot the Speer 165 grain BT well with 56.5 gr of H-380.
All 3 of these rifles will be going up with us tomorrow. Your Dad will be using his Featherweight, your nephew will be using your Stainless and my Ruger American Rifle will be a backup rifle in case anyone has any problems.
I also try to use ball power when I can. One thing, when working with 6mm Rem and 22-250 I found necking closer to the lands would make the bullet strike higher. Every caliber and chambering has a sweet spot for bullet weight, speed, and bullet drop like 22-250 is 55g bullet weight, 222/223 50g, 6mm Rem and 243 win is 85g. 25-06 100g.
The ballistic advantage of matching bullet weight and speed in a caliber for flat trajectory is where I normally start. I look for a bullet weight and performance that best fits the game I am hunting. My favorites have always been nosler solid base, you could shoot a lighter bullet for better trajectory and get the same performance that you get with a heavier weight bullet.
I meant to say I have 15k of each type of primers. SPP, SPM,SRP, SLP. Not so many shotgun but still a couple of sleeves of Cheddite I saw for a good price on sale online somewhere. I just started loading shotgun so that Promo is going to come in handy.
Mine sure fits the spot between my 30-06 and 416 Mag. No real need for it but I like it anyways and I can feed it squib loads with 357mag lead for plinking.
Never heard a squib being a positive thing
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I drove a white 1992 New Yorker for a couple years. Mine had an all blue interior with plush velour upholstery. That was the epitome of 90s big three "luxury". Drove like a boat but it sure was nice on the highway. Popped my favorite cassette in the radio and just cruised.
The old Nosler solid base used to be my favorite, but when they went with ballistic tips they got too soft (IMO).
I find the Barnes copper bullets to be very dependable. Never got the original TSX to shoot well but had much better luck with the TTSX in 30-06, 300 Win Mag and in my 338-06. My 270 WSM likes the 129 grain Barnes LRX, which has a VG BC. I also like that they don't ruin as much meat as many conventional bullets. Was able to salvage a lot more backstrap from last years Buck shot with the 338-06 because of that.
Never heard a squib being a positive thing
Ok. Reduced power load. Lol.Similar threads
Want to Sell
4 free saws
