Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

[CTYank]

So what you are going to need to know is the pitch of each chain you plan on sharpening. The pitch will be .325, 3/8, 3/8 low profile etc. If you know that information then you could go to the stihl dealer and get the correct size file for the chain pitch you plan to sharpen. Each pitch uses a different size file. If you look at my post earlier the stihl FF1 is also chain pitch specific because it sits between the rivets on the chain. What you posted will work but the Stihl FF1 with the file kit is what made me consistent in my angles. If you don't like your local stihl dealer try a different one. You can look them up online. The one I bought my saw from was clueless. Once I became educated I went to a different dealer and couldn't be happier as his prices are good and he carries everything you could possibly want. Where are you located one of us may be able to get you to a dealer worth going to. One thing about the stihl file kit and FF1 file guide holder is the files and other parts are top notch files and will last a long time. I bought an off brand file to try similar to what you are looking at and the file didn't hold up nearly as long as the stihl files I was using.

Just my experience, but I'd NEVER go for any filing tools specific to a chain type. Stuff gets lost in the woods.

After sampling a variety of filing guides, I found Granberg's "File-N-Joint" (aka "FNJ"). Been using one about 35 yrs. Once you dedicate a little conscious thought, results are precise & repeatable. Except for debris contact, 1 stroke/tooth every other fill-up and the cutters stay like razors. I like K.I.S.S.- 5/32" & 7/32" files for the 3/8" and 3/16" for .325" pitches, available anywhere. FNJ also does depth gauges precisely with a flat file, BUT using one long-term on a chain, I find that I almost never have to touch them. They wear down at a rate essentially corresponding to the receding of the cutters.

Best to find someone who can show-and-tell on filing. A year or so back, I did that with a couple buds who were struggling with the chain filing stuff they had. I demo-ed theory and practice of filing with FNJ. Maybe 15 minutes for each. Made a huge difference in their chains, which makes a huge difference in longevity of chains, bars, engines.

Sorry but those HF grinders are pure poo. Northern's is orders of magnitude better, but there are prerequisites for getting good results.
For FNJ, NT's price is now about 1/3 off Bailey's. Dunno why Bailey's suddenly jumped $10.

 

[MustangMike]

Some good news to share .... My daughter had a Baby Girl today, my first Grand Daughter (I have 2 Grand Sons).

Everyone is doing well.

 

[svk]

Some good news to share .... My daughter had a Baby Girl today, my first Grand Daughter (I have 2 Grand Sons).

Everyone is doing well.

Congrats!

 

[MustangMike]

Thanks.

 

[dancan]

A big congrats there Mike!!!!!

 

[MuskokaSplitter]

Congrats Mike!

 

[zogger]

Some good news to share .... My daughter had a Baby Girl today, my first Grand Daughter (I have 2 Grand Sons).

Everyone is doing well.

Cool beans man! I know it is a grand daughter, but meh, I ain't sexist. Buy her a nice saw and a nice gun and stash them away for a present when she is a teen.

 

[nomad_archer]

Some good news to share .... My daughter had a Baby Girl today, my first Grand Daughter (I have 2 Grand Sons).

Everyone is doing well.

Outstanding. Congrats

 

[nomad_archer]

Just my experience, but I'd NEVER go for any filing tools specific to a chain type. Stuff gets lost in the woods.

After sampling a variety of filing guides, I found Granberg's "File-N-Joint" (aka "FNJ"). Been using one about 35 yrs. Once you dedicate a little conscious thought, results are precise & repeatable. Except for debris contact, 1 stroke/tooth every other fill-up and the cutters stay like razors. I like K.I.S.S.- 5/32" & 7/32" files for the 3/8" and 3/16" for .325" pitches, available anywhere. FNJ also does depth gauges precisely with a flat file, BUT using one long-term on a chain, I find that I almost never have to touch them. They wear down at a rate essentially corresponding to the receding of the cutters.

Best to find someone who can show-and-tell on filing. A year or so back, I did that with a couple buds who were struggling with the chain filing stuff they had. I demo-ed theory and practice of filing with FNJ. Maybe 15 minutes for each. Made a huge difference in their chains, which makes a huge difference in longevity of chains, bars, engines.

Sorry but those HF grinders are pure poo. Northern's is orders of magnitude better, but there are prerequisites for getting good results.
For FNJ, NT's price is now about 1/3 off Bailey's. Dunno why Bailey's suddenly jumped $10.

Everyone has there thing. The FF1 is much much smaller than the file-n-joint and doesn't require any setup just set it on the bar/chain and your are off to the races no clamps or other depth/angle adjustments like on the granberg. Plus the FF1 guide holder is less expensive and having one for each chain is like having the right sized file. It is no big deal. I could carry 4 FF1 in less space than the file-n-join. I throw the FF1 in my tool box that I take with me. I only deal with .325 chain right now so to keep it simple I have one FF1 and 1 size file. It keeps things very very simple. I have no doubt the file-n-joint is a good tool but this is simpler for a beginner to figure out because you get the file angle and height right every time with out needing adjustments. Plus I carry spare chains its easier to chain a chain when needed then to touch up the cutters in the woods. I only have so much time to cut firewood and I would rather not spend it sharpening that is something I do at home. I have a different perspective so I can see where you are coming from and I was about 2 seconds from ordering the file-n-joint when I found the FF1 and decided to give it a go. I am happy it worked out every well for me.

 

[nomad_archer]

In the Tx heat, I don't wear a hat. Do you think it's necessary when the wood isn't standing? Also how about iPod / earphones for ear protection? That's what we've been using.



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I wear the full deal even when I have mid 90 temps and 90% humidity. I wear a forester helmet with the face shield and hearing protection. plus i wear the eye protection and steel toe boots, leather gloves, heavy work pants and wrap around chaps. I do put that on any time I fire up the saw to cut anything. Accidents happen any time. The face shield on the helmet really is nice to keep sticks and wood chips out of your face. A mouth full of wood chips really stinks. As soon as I put the saw away all of the PPE comes off so I can cool off.

 

[nomad_archer]

Cool beans man! I know it is a grand daughter, but meh, I ain't sexist. Buy her a nice saw and a nice gun and stash them away for a present when she is a teen.

Gotta start them early. My daughter was the best thing that ever happened to me. I can attest at 2 they are ready to help with firewood duty.

 

[MustangMike]

Great shot, that is precious!

 

[nomad_archer]

Great shot, that is precious!

Thanks. She insisted on helping. She got very very very upset if she couldn't help move the wood. I dont mind the extra help at all.

 

[marcy-m]

Congratulations on the granddaughter MustangMike! Grand kids are fun! We've got 3 grandsons so far.


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[marcy-m]

Here is a good place to start for safety and maintenance:
The information is sometimes stihl specific but it carries over to most chainsaws especially the general safety and maintenance

I finished the video, and I thought it was really good. I learned a whole lot. I noticed that my bar angle is more acute than how they cut.

What I see those guys doing: less than 45 degree angle with tip up, then start the cut with the back of the saw, then they bring the tip down and seem to end cutting again with the back of the saw.

My entry angle has the tip further up , and I rock the saw forward more than once per cut. However, I mainly cut with the back of the saw. This is how I was shown. Is this wrong and could this be because I have a little saw that just about equals log diameter usually?



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[MustangMike]

That should be fine. Just always be careful what your bar tip may come in contact with, often something beyond your cut that you are not focusing on, that is what will create kickback. Always try to have firm control of your saw.

 

[woodbooga]

Hi Mike ... not me in the video, I just pulled it off YouTube for its clear view of noodles. Yes I agree, always wear good leather gloves, chaps, ear, face, eyes and head protection. We're definitely on the same page ; )

Good to know. Better yet, keep the fingers - gloved or otherwise - away. Screwdriver part of the scrench or a stick are even better. Better yet, kill the saw and remove any risk. (I play a little guitar and am kind of protective about my fingers!)

 

[woodbooga]

Timely twist of the thread!

I scrounged 2 huge fed swamp maples. The upper trunks were e-z peasy lemon squeezy to split. But some of the lower stuff had a wicked twist and rivaled elm.

So my trusty 041 lives with my FIL now. Was my go-to noodler. Too lazy to sharpen my jred 2149 and the MS360 is being tempramental. I cut 80% of my wood with my little MS210. If I'm cutting hardwood less than 18" I fill the truck on less than a tank. The other saws - quicker cut but with refuel stops, no time advantage and more costly on the gas line item.

So I had these crotchety unspitable rounds and a minisaw for noodling. Got the job done quite well. Just couldn't bury the saw like in the video, with the bar parallel to the ground. Worked more at a 45 degree angle for much of the initial cuts, burying deeper as time went on.

 

[MountainHigh]

Some good news to share .... My daughter had a Baby Girl today, my first Grand Daughter (I have 2 Grand Sons).

Everyone is doing well.

That's great MM! We just had another grandson too a couple of weeks back. Our 7th - as long as I don't look in the mirror I'm quite pleased with being a grandpa too!

Love that line from the Peter Sellers movie 'Being There' .... "Life is a state of mind "

 

[MountainHigh]

I wear the full deal even when I have mid 90 temps and 90% humidity. I wear a forester helmet with the face shield and hearing protection. plus i wear the eye protection and steel toe boots, leather gloves, heavy work pants and wrap around chaps. I do put that on any time I fire up the saw to cut anything. Accidents happen any time. The face shield on the helmet really is nice to keep sticks and wood chips out of your face. A mouth full of wood chips really stinks. As soon as I put the saw away all of the PPE comes off so I can cool off.

ditto