Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

[nomad_archer]

Tell me about it, I'm riding a Madone 7 with Carbon A3 D3 wheels. Love it, but it was a "lot of chainsaws". I did save many thousands by going with Ultegra instead of Dura Ace, and aluminum aero bars and stem instead of carbon, etc. My 60 cm frame w/o pedals is still under 16 lbs. It does help to keep you in shape, especially if you start riding with a group and "get addicted".

Regarding the kickback questions, it can occur whenever the bar tip makes contact with anything. Metal fences, etc, will really cause a violent reaction. A dull chain will also make it worse. The low kickback bars have smaller noses. IMO, a sharp chain always causes less kickback. Always have a firm grip on, and control your saw. There are no second chances.

A lot of chainsaws is an understatement. Though it looks like one heck of a bike and way out of my price range at this point. I am looking beginner/entry level. Although I am learning anytime bike + carbon are used in the same sentence the out come on price is the same. It just goes up and up the more carbon is used. My wife wants to look at a trek lexa tonight. She likes the color. She will probably end up with some entry level Trek or Raleigh which will serve her well for a long time. I don't think either of us could appreciate a high end bike at this point. I saw a set of carbon wheels at $2600 a pair the the bike shop this weekend. I almost fell over.

As for the kickback questions I second mike's thoughts.

Here is a good place to start for safety and maintenance:
The information is sometimes stihl specific but it carries over to most chainsaws especially the general safety and maintenance

 

[svk]

That thing throws noodles like a mad MOFO!

My saw doesn't like to noodle, it jams up right away. Have thought about getting a second clutch cover and modifying it for noodling as I have seen in a few posts around here.

 

[marcy-m]

Instead of full length , buck the crotches and knotty pieces a lot shorter , easier to split that way and takes less time than trying to noodle with a small saw .

Thanks! I'm definitely going to try this.


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[marcy-m]

Great video Mtn, but I'm going to me your Mother for a moment "Wear some darn gloves, especially when clearing noodles on a running saw!"

Always remember safety first, some of us tend to do some things that someone new to saws should not do. Remember, fingers & toes do not grow back!

Marcy-m, in the price range of your equipment, you should learn to hand sharpen an put your money toward a better saw (not a sharpener). Files are very low cost, and it is not that hard to learn how to sharpen a chain. In fact, it is easier than splitting wood by hand.

I guess in that way I'm more typical Mom - I insist that the kids (and I) wear gloves and safety glasses. Makes my teen son soooo happy I don't wear chaps or a hard hat though. I figure the hat is mainly for felling rather than firewood work. I'm looking for some chaps.

I saw this guy on YouTube sharpening his chains with that 40$ grinder, and Home Depot didn't have the drimmel kit at the store. That put the grinder in my head. If hand sharpening will work and something a newbie can learn, I'm much more comfortable doing it without the machine. I just didn't think I'd get those angles right without screwing up a chain or two first.


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[marcy-m]

Actucally Mike is very right here. I have the norther tool grinder and it is a good tool for the price but I only use it when rocks decide to attack my chain and the chain is in really bad. I got a stihl filing kit and the stihl file guide holder that goes on the bar and I file my chains 99% of the time becuase it is quick and you get a sharper chain when it is filed especially as a novice with a grinder. Grinders can do some serious damage to a chain when used improperly. I found that out the hard way. Filing is quick and easy with the right tools. The tools I linked to cost me around $50 or less total and I use them most of the time....[/IMG]

(Sorry I didn't clip the quote first time. Still getting used to this.)

Thanks for the great info, links, and pictures. I'm going to show this to my husband. He has a shop set up out back, but this time of year has a hard time finding time to get back there. He'll help me set it up. Pictures are great! I'm going to take a look at those links now. Thanks again for the info!


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[nomad_archer]

Marcy,
I am glad I could help. I was in the same situation a few years ago. I initially went the grinder route since I was afraid I couldn't get the angles right with a file and a grinder well that shouldn't be that difficult. I started with the $40 Harbor freight grinder and I couldnt get that to consistently work for me. I then got the northertool grinder and a molmab grinder wheel since the ones that come with it are terrible. I got mediocre results because I didnt know what the heck I was doing even with the correct angles getting the depth correct is tricky. Any how phillbert the resident chain and sharpening expert helped me improve my grinder technique and also directed me in learning how to file correctly. Turns out with the correct guides and files, filing is faster and produces a better result for me especially when the chain isnt damaged. 2-3 passes with the file on each cutter and its razor sharp again.

Here is the thread that shows were I started and where I ended up with sharpening: http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/cant-seem-to-get-safety-chain-to-cut.255691/

 

[marcy-m]

Will this kit work?

http://m.ebay.com/itm/131226425508?nav=SEARCH

There is a local Stihl dealer, but I hate going in there without my husband. I might try them again.


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[macattack_ga]

Will this kit work?

http://m.ebay.com/itm/131226425508?nav=SEARCH

There is a local Stihl dealer, but I hate going in there without my husband. I might try them again.

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I've got the Stihl version. Works well. Takes practice.

 

[marcy-m]

Here's the video that I watched where the guy uses the harbor freight grinder:



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[marcy-m]

pulling my daughter behind me and generally having a great time doing it. My wife and I have really gotten bitten by the cycling bug

Sweet! Cute little girl! She seems to be having fun, too


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[nomad_archer]

Sweet! Cute little girl! She seems to be having fun, too


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She loves riding in the trailer. Mostly because we stop at maximum playgrounds along the way.

Here's the video that I watched where the guy uses the harbor freight grinder:



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Yep the new harbor freight grinders are even cheaper built then the ones in the video. I would stay away from them especially if you are learning to sharpen as they have way to much play in the components to result in any kind of consistency.

 

[nomad_archer]

Will this kit work?

http://m.ebay.com/itm/131226425508?nav=SEARCH

There is a local Stihl dealer, but I hate going in there without my husband. I might try them again.


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So what you are going to need to know is the pitch of each chain you plan on sharpening. The pitch will be .325, 3/8, 3/8 low profile etc. If you know that information then you could go to the stihl dealer and get the correct size file for the chain pitch you plan to sharpen. Each pitch uses a different size file. If you look at my post earlier the stihl FF1 is also chain pitch specific because it sits between the rivets on the chain. What you posted will work but the Stihl FF1 with the file kit is what made me consistent in my angles. If you don't like your local stihl dealer try a different one. You can look them up online. The one I bought my saw from was clueless. Once I became educated I went to a different dealer and couldn't be happier as his prices are good and he carries everything you could possibly want. Where are you located one of us may be able to get you to a dealer worth going to. One thing about the stihl file kit and FF1 file guide holder is the files and other parts are top notch files and will last a long time. I bought an off brand file to try similar to what you are looking at and the file didn't hold up nearly as long as the stihl files I was using.

 

[MountainHigh]

Great video Mtn, but I'm going to me your Mother for a moment "Wear some darn gloves, especially when clearing noodles on a running saw!"

Hi Mike ... not me in the video, I just pulled it off YouTube for its clear view of noodles. Yes I agree, always wear good leather gloves, chaps, ear, face, eyes and head protection. We're definitely on the same page ; )

 

[marcy-m]

So what you are going to need to know is the pitch of each chain you plan on sharpening. The pitch will be .325, 3/8, 3/8 low profile etc.

How do I get this info on a used saw?

I guess I should take the saw up there. I'm going to give them another chance. Hopefully they'll take me seriously even though I didn't buy my cheap little saw there.

Thanks for the help. I'd like to get the Stihl brand if I can. Maybe they'll have what I need there at the dealer. I'm just west of Dallas.



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[CTYank]

Yep - no wrong way to noodle in my book - but as you likely know, just always be cautious watch for saw kickback whenever working with tip of saw - do homework if you're not sure how to treat the tip of your saw. Safety first.
You might need stronger saw for successful noodling in your hardwood. 60cc and up seems to work best for nasty wood.
cheers

I've accidentally found 2 saws that work very well at noodling- pp5020 and Dolmar PS-6100- adequate and copious power respectively. They both clear chips very well, because of the clutch cover design. Goes without saying that chains must be properly sharp, not kinda. I've seen some 35 cc Poulans that noodled very well too, so it's not much about displacement.

Big thing about bar tip and kickback is to not allow random contact of upper tip quadrant and wood. For a knot within a round, I ease the bar tip into the wood, lower quadrant first, essentially pushing tip downward, perpendicular to long axis. Then push lengthwise.

First and foremost, NEVER run a chainsaw with any body parts in the "plane of the chain". Don't be a target.

 

[marcy-m]

Here is a good place to start for safety and maintenance:
The information is sometimes stihl specific but it carries over to most chainsaws especially the general safety and maintenance

I was able to watch the first little bit , and I'm looking forward to watching the rest tonight when I have more time. Thanks for posting it!



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[marcy-m]

always wear good leather gloves, chaps, ear, face, eyes and head protection. We're definitely on the same page ; )

In the Tx heat, I don't wear a hat. Do you think it's necessary when the wood isn't standing? Also how about iPod / earphones for ear protection? That's what we've been using.



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[dancan]

I've got plenty of saws to noodle with up to 100cc's and I just cut them short , takes less time regardless of what saw and a lot less fuel , save the noodles for lunch , the short blocks also have a shorter drying time .
Once you start getting chains ground with that type of grinder or done at shops you will usually end cutters that get hardened from the heat so hand filing is usually not a pleasant task afterwards .
If you want to use a motorized tool get a cheap dremel type grinder and get a carbide burr the same size as your file .

 

[dancan]

I only have 2 ears , I wear hearing protection , not ear buds .

 

[marcy-m]

I only have 2 ears , I wear hearing protection , not ear buds .

Someone needs to invent iPod hearing protection. Maybe my saw is quiet since it's little? We've got some over the head hearing protection that we use when shooting. I'll test the difference.


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