Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

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Was real nice here today so I went and worked the logpile this afternoon to shorten the rest of the tree length we had at the landing , I fired up the 1020 to use the winch to unbury the poles .

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IMG_20160131_132424.jpg


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All done , tractor put away , ready to go home .


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Then as I looked back to make sure I did't forget anything I spotted a dead spruce top real close by so I figured "Why not?" so I untarped the tractor and off I went .

It was worth the trip
smiley.png


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I left them bigger ones for another day , cut a few black spruce poles and one dead top .

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I put the tractor away after that LOL

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Mighty Mouse Logging LLC

that's what I call a day of wood working.... ggzz.... impressive load!
 
Was real nice here today so I went and worked the logpile this afternoon to shorten the rest of the tree length we had at the landing , I fired up the 1020 to use the winch to unbury the poles .

IMG_20160131_131346.jpg


IMG_20160131_132424.jpg


IMG_20160131_133450.jpg


All done , tractor put away , ready to go home .


IMG_20160131_152025.jpg


Then as I looked back to make sure I did't forget anything I spotted a dead spruce top real close by so I figured "Why not?" so I untarped the tractor and off I went .

It was worth the trip
smiley.png


IMG_20160131_153217.jpg


IMG_20160131_153222.jpg


I left them bigger ones for another day , cut a few black spruce poles and one dead top .

IMG_20160131_155608.jpg


IMG_20160131_161512.jpg


I put the tractor away after that LOL

IMG_20160131_151142.jpg


Mighty Mouse Logging LLC

Cut up from the bottom and let the ball fall.

Mmmmmm...I love Heineken. I love Amstel Light even more. I drank the snot out of that in my yut.

No where to be found in Northern MN. Go figure.

I have fond memories of an ex and I sitting at the outside tables at the Deer Park in Newark, De with our table loaded with Amstel Light bottles. Then stumble our way back to her house.

Strong work as always Dan.:cheers:
 
Cut up from the bottom and let the ball fall.

Mmmmmm...I love Heineken. I love Amstel Light even more. I drank the snot out of that in my yut.

No where to be found in Northern MN. Go figure.

I have fond memories of an ex and I sitting at the outside tables at the Deer Park in Newark, De with our table loaded with Amstel Light bottles. Then stumble our way back to her house.

Strong work as always Dan.:cheers:
Heineken is hard to find? I know it's available somewhere as my neighbor keeps it on hand.
 
> A 20" bar and sharp chain and the bar gets so hot its not funny.

that is interesting... EPA rate of oil feed. I think if bar got that hot, I would have a hand held oil squirt can with some of the real sticky stihl bar lube in it, maybe even 1/3 80-wgt gear oil, too. cut, stop, oil. cut, stop, oil!... I have mixed bar lube and 80-wgt 50/50 and so far... good results. well, imo.

>I think the combination of extreme cold, ice, thick oil and sawdust was just too much for the saw.

noting that sawdust is a given in such operations and activities... do you think a thinner viscosity bar lube would have made the saw perform better? how did the ice affect it, I may have missed that in your prev post?

I definitely would not be out cutting firewood in -8F temps! but that is just me... I am an enthused enthusiast, but not that enthused! :laughing: but, trust me here now, ok?.... to those of you that do go out in the snow and ice and cold and cut firewood... be sure you have my respect and attention!!! :yes: and the pix your post up are always awesome to see. we don't see stuff like that down here in growing zone 9a!!! sometimes those cool pix, pun intended are so cool... I have to go put on another pair of sox!! ;)

Now to be fair I have no idea if the EPA has anything to do with the rate or oil flow but I will say now that I have other saws to compare against, the 271's rate of oil flow seems a bit anemic. My other saws when adjusted per the manual for the bar length put put out way more oil than my stihl. I did fix my oiler problem though. I got a bigger saw for the 20" bar that has and adjustable oiler since I am not going to cut and manually oil my bar that's just not going to happen. The limited bar oil output on the 271 is a common complaint about the saw so it is what it is. But I figure stihl did the R&D and designed the oiler so it must be good enough. I just wish it put out oil like the my other saws.
 
Now to be fair I have no idea if the EPA has anything to do with the rate or oil flow but I will say now that I have other saws to compare against, the 271's rate of oil flow seems a bit anemic. My other saws when adjusted per the manual for the bar length put put out way more oil than my stihl. I did fix my oiler problem though. I got a bigger saw for the 20" bar that has and adjustable oiler since I am not going to cut and manually oil my bar that's just not going to happen. The limited bar oil output on the 271 is a common complaint about the saw so it is what it is. But I figure stihl did the RD and designed these so it must be good enough. I just wish it put out oil like the my other saws.

It may be a bar problem and not an oiler problem. Run the saw with the bar removed and look for a healthy "slobber" of oil from the oil port. Have you considered enlarging the oil hole in the bar and angling the hole towards the bar tip? Some folks do this routinely on every saw with 1/8" hole. Look for a bur or sharp edge of the hole where it meets the chain channel, anything that can catch wood chips and clog the oil hole. Also some cut the bar oil with 10% - 20% mineral spirits or diesel fuel. I have also read of using canola oil but it can spoil if it is left in the saw during storage. Hot dry chains will cause excessive wear and rob power.
 
Saturday was nice in central Indiana. 50 degrees and sunny all day. I used the afternoon working on the last two oak rounds. The first one is all split and I managed to flop the last one on its face to wedge it in to two halves. That was a battle, but the 660 helped me un-stick 3 wedges. Both halves were almost exactly 30" wide in the center and 34" long. Here is the last round in nice pie sections. All that is left is cutting each pie in to 17" lengths and then split away with the Fiskars. It feels pretty good to be on the last round.
Last%20oak%20round.jpeg
 
Saturday was nice in central Indiana. 50 degrees and sunny all day. I used the afternoon working on the last two oak rounds. The first one is all split and I managed to flop the last one on its face to wedge it in to two halves. That was a battle, but the 660 helped me un-stick 3 wedges. Both halves were almost exactly 30" wide in the center and 34" long. Here is the last round in nice pie sections. All that is left is cutting each pie in to 17" lengths and then split away with the Fiskars. It feels pretty good to be on the last round.
Last%20oak%20round.jpeg

I have done that with 3 wedges, and 4, and 5, and 6. Now I have 7 wedges but seldom use them because I eventually got a 460. Noodling is definitely the way to go for the big or nasty ones, but not near as much fun. There is just something about swinging a BFH. LOL
 
Yea, I always start with the wedges to see how big a battle it is going to be. On these big ones I have actually split a few with two wedges. The 660 was made for those long noodle cuts. It reminds me of the times I tackled a big oak like this a tree service dumped in my side yard. My only saw was the old reliable 028 with an 18" bar. Oh to be young and stupid again:baaa:
 
The only way I justify owning big saws is the wood scrounging I do often leads to the pieces no one wants, large trunk sections. It is hard to argue when it is free and delivered right to my yard. I do not do much milling any more, so I am almost re-thinking my big saw strategy. Losing the 660 and 084 and replace them with a BB or leaned on 460. I was eyeing a 460BB on the trading post page. Mustang Mike, I see you run a leaned on 460, what are your thoughts?
 
It may be a bar problem and not an oiler problem. Run the saw with the bar removed and look for a healthy "slobber" of oil from the oil port. Have you considered enlarging the oil hole in the bar and angling the hole towards the bar tip? Some folks do this routinely on every saw with 1/8" hole. Look for a bur or sharp edge of the hole where it meets the chain channel, anything that can catch wood chips and clog the oil hole. Also some cut the bar oil with 10% - 20% mineral spirits or diesel fuel. I have also read of using canola oil but it can spoil if it is left in the saw during storage. Hot dry chains will cause excessive wear and rob power.

Unfortunately it isn't a bar problem. Its just a fixed nonadjustable oiler issue with a "farm ranch saw" with the 16" bar it is barely enough. But this is my non engineer opinion. This is a common complaint with this model saw. The oil volume maybe enough but I have gone to the more is better camp in regard to oil output since oil is cheap compared to bars. To be fair I'm not burning wood or smoking bars the bar just get darn hot. Hot enough that it is hot even when a bar is barely handled using leather gloves.
 
I've not had any problems with my Stihls oiling the bar, and I am running a 36" on a 460. Then again, all my saws are pro saws.

I use the CountyLine bar oil in all weather w/o any problems. ($6/gal).

To be fair I am talking about the farm/ranch saw with non adjustable oiler. The adjustable oilers on the pro saws are the ticket. Also I use the TSC bar oil since you cant beat the price.
 
I've not had any problems with my Stihls oiling the bar, and I am running a 36" on a 460. Then again, all my saws are pro saws.

I use the CountyLine bar oil in all weather w/o any problems. ($6/gal).

My 460 will use a little more than 1/3 of the oil tank per tank of fuel giving me a dry, crusty chain with the 25" bar, and I rebuilt my oiler with high output components. I have not attacked my bar yet but I will. I haven't tried the TSC oil yet but I have a few gallons when the rest is used up.
My worst is my MS150T. I cannot get 1/2 tank of fuel through it without it totally clogging the bar oil hole, even after I angled the bar hole. Next is thinning the oil. Others have experienced the same. I was generous giving it a 1 star rating on the Stihl home site, enough said. The saw is essentially non functional.
 

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