Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

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Saturday was nice in central Indiana. 50 degrees and sunny all day. I used the afternoon working on the last two oak rounds. The first one is all split and I managed to flop the last one on its face to wedge it in to two halves. That was a battle, but the 660 helped me un-stick 3 wedges. Both halves were almost exactly 30" wide in the center and 34" long. Here is the last round in nice pie sections. All that is left is cutting each pie in to 17" lengths and then split away with the Fiskars. It feels pretty good to be on the last round.
Last%20oak%20round.jpeg

thanks for the pix and update... that was quite a tree cutting project!

>It feels pretty good to be on the last round.

sometimes when I get up in the morning... I feel like I am on the last round... lol :laughing:
>All that is left is cutting each pie in to 17" lengths and then split away with the Fiskars. :muscle:

B. L. : :drinkingcoffee:
 
I end up with a 1 to 1 with oil/fuel usage ratio. That's why I believe my oiler is working as intended it is just lower output than I would like.
What's up NA.
I would think a 1:1 ratio is great lubrication.
I would be sure to run a genuine stihl chain as I'm sure the saws oiling system is designed for one. They have a special grove that should carry the oil better as far as I can tell.
The other option is to run a B&C that is one size shorter and us your 365 if anything longer is needed. I personally think the 20" is much more suited to the 365 and a 16-18" on the 271. I don't like to run any shorter than an 18" on my 50cc saws even though they love a 16":chainsaw:, but my back doesn't:confused:
 
Are you talking one gallon of lube to one gallon of mix? Or one tank of lube to one tank of mix considering that the fuel tank is significantly larger? Either way 1:1 seems really rich to me. Granted I am normally running shorter bars (except the 2186) but the oil tank is always at least 1/3 full after I run out of gas. My Husky 41 could do two tanks of oil to a tank of gas and never had problems with it.

The 2186 uses a lot more oil (seems to be set perfectly for the 28" bar) and whips oil snot all over the place with the 20" bar. Still not even close to using a tank of oil per tank of gas.
 
What's up NA.
I would think a 1:1 ratio is great lubrication.
I would be sure to run a genuine stihl chain as I'm sure the saws oiling system is designed for one. They have a special grove that should carry the oil better as far as I can tell.
The other option is to run a B&C that is one size shorter and us your 365 if anything longer is needed. I personally think the 20" is much more suited to the 365 and a 16-18" on the 271. I don't like to run any shorter than an 18" on my 50cc saws even though they love a 16":chainsaw:, but my back doesn't:confused:

I am talking a tank of fuel to a tank of oil. I use stihl chain/bar on the saw 271. I use a 16" bar on the saw 99% of the time now. When I need more saw I just use the 365 since I have a 20", 24", and 28" bars for it. Plus a tank of fuel and tank of oil are not created equally. Just because they run out at the same time does not mean there is an awesome amount of lubrication with a non adjustable oiler. All it means is the engineers sized the oil tank and oil output to match the run time for a tank of fuel. I go through more than a gallon of fuel before I go through a gallon of bar oil. I just wish I could turn it up to get more oil to the bar. With my other saws, such as the lowly cs400 with an 18" bar, that saw will spray oil off the bar tip while in the cut and you will see it on the ground after you cut, the ms 271 even with a 16" bar will be darn near dry after the cut. That is the difference. It will be interesting once I start using the 365 more often, to see how the bar wears versus how the bar for the 271 has worn.
 
I am talking a tank of fuel to a tank of oil. I use stihl chain/bar on the saw 271. I use a 16" bar on the saw 99% of the time now. When I need more saw I just use the 365 since I have a 20", 24", and 28" bars for it. Plus a tank of fuel and tank of oil are not created equally. Just because they run out at the same time does not mean there is an awesome amount of lubrication with a non adjustable oiler. All it means is the engineers sized the oil tank and oil output to match the run time for a tank of fuel. I go through more than a gallon of fuel before I go through a gallon of bar oil. I just wish I could turn it up to get more oil to the bar. With my other saws, such as the lowly cs400 with an 18" bar, that saw will spray oil off the bar tip while in the cut and you will see it on the ground after you cut, the ms 271 even with a 16" bar will be darn near dry after the cut. That is the difference. It will be interesting once I start using the 365 more often, to see how the bar wears versus how the bar for the 271 has worn.
What species are you cutting with the 28" bar on the 365? Do you need to run skip?
 
I couldn't get the pictures to load up on here off my phone so I will edit the post.
This is a dead leaning black locust down "Honda Ct" which is where I store a few cars and what not. The tree was dead when I bought the house 6yrs ago and just started leaning up against the crotch of the cherry tree in the last two yrs.
This picture is to give perspective of where it is and what I will be doing.
The tree is in the back left corner behind the two snow free patches.
20160201_114928.jpg
This is looking from behind my wood shed, the tree that creates the X is the one I am removing. I will be pulling the bottom to me with the skidding winch while the crotch of the cherry supports the top of the tree
20160201_115721.jpg
Here's the cut, just a basic large snap cut since my winch wouldn't pull the stump and the tree all at once. I believe it should and will be looking into it more this spring.
20160201_120321.jpg
In this picture you can see that I have now successfully pulled the locust tree closer to the base of the cherry after the snap cut broke, a little farther and it will be tipped back the other direction.
20160201_120415.jpg
 
What species are you cutting with the 28" bar on the 365? Do you need to run skip?

I have not used to 28" bar just yet. I have 2 loops of full chisel that I am going to run and see what happens. FarmerSteve has an oak with my name on it that will require the big bar. Just have to wait until the snow melts and the ground freezes again. I expect to have to be patient since the 28" bar is max listed for the saw but it is a 70cc saw so I am hoping for the best.
 
I have not used to 28" bar just yet. I have 2 loops of full chisel that I am going to run and see what happens. FarmerSteve has an oak with my name on it that will require the big bar. Just have to wait until the snow melts and the ground freezes again. I expect to have to be patient since the 28" bar is max listed for the saw but it is a 70cc saw so I am hoping for the best.
Makes sense. You could always re link those loops to a shorter DL count or turn them into skip if you needed to go that route.
 
Makes sense. You could always re link those loops to a shorter DL count or turn them into skip if you needed to go that route.
I hope I dont need to go that route but if I did, I would make them 24" loops. I am just hoping that husky wouldn't list a bar length that the saw couldn't pull. I don't expect to use the 28" bar often at all. It would be kind of like using a 20" bar on a 50cc saw, I will need to be patient but the saw will still be capable.
 
I couldn't get the pictures to load up on here off my phone so I will edit the post.
This is a dead leaning black locust down "Honda Ct" which is where I store a few cars and what not. The tree was dead when I bought the house 6yrs ago and just started leaning up against the crotch of the cherry tree in the last two yrs.
This picture is to give perspective of where it is and what I will be doing.
The tree is in the back left corner behind the two snow free patches.
View attachment 482966
This is looking from behind my wood shed, the tree that creates the X is the one I am removing. I will be pulling the bottom to me with the skidding winch while the crotch of the cherry supports the top of the tree
View attachment 482967
Here's the cut, just a basic large snap cut since my winch wouldn't pull the stump and the tree all at once. I believe it should and will be looking into it more this spring.
View attachment 482968
In this picture you can see that I have now successfully pulled the locust tree closer to the base of the cherry after the snap cut broke, a little farther and it will be tipped back the other direction.
View attachment 482969
To be continued, gotta run, sure hope everything turns out alright:surprised3:
 
I couldn't get the pictures to load up on here off my phone so I will edit the post.
This is a dead leaning black locust down "Honda Ct" which is where I store a few cars and what not. The tree was dead when I bought the house 6yrs ago and just started leaning up against the crotch of the cherry tree in the last two yrs.
This picture is to give perspective of where it is and what I will be doing.
The tree is in the back left corner behind the two snow free patches.
View attachment 482966
This is looking from behind my wood shed, the tree that creates the X is the one I am removing. I will be pulling the bottom to me with the skidding winch while the crotch of the cherry supports the top of the tree
View attachment 482967
Here's the cut, just a basic large snap cut since my winch wouldn't pull the stump and the tree all at once. I believe it should and will be looking into it more this spring.
View attachment 482968
In this picture you can see that I have now successfully pulled the locust tree closer to the base of the cherry after the snap cut broke, a little farther and it will be tipped back the other direction.
View attachment 482969

That looks like a reasonable plan.
A bit off topic for a moment. What are those bush-like plants growing all over the place, one near the base of the cherry tree? They have a similar structure to Asian Honeysuckle. I don't even know if you have that crap there. If so, it is an invasive species and will choke off the entire floor of your woods. Just curious as I spend a lot of time killing that stuff here.
 
Looks a lot like honeysuckle from the pics. I despise that stuff. It grows rampant at my place. I spend a lot of time pulling and spraying it. Hope to have it eradicated in the next year or so. Only problem is that it's growing on all the neighbors property as well, so it's something that will have to be dealt with annually.
 
Looks a lot like honeysuckle from the pics. I despise that stuff. It grows rampant at my place. I spend a lot of time pulling and spraying it. Hope to have it eradicated in the next year or so. Only problem is that it's growing on all the neighbors property as well, so it's something that will have to be dealt with annually.

Exactly. I have to do a few acres on the neighbors property. Spray it with Trichlopyr? Pulling leaves some roots.
 
The only way I justify owning big saws is the wood scrounging I do often leads to the pieces no one wants, large trunk sections. It is hard to argue when it is free and delivered right to my yard. I do not do much milling any more, so I am almost re-thinking my big saw strategy. Losing the 660 and 084 and replace them with a BB or leaned on 460. I was eyeing a 460BB on the trading post page. Mustang Mike, I see you run a leaned on 460, what are your thoughts?

I am very pleased with the way that Ported 460/046-D that Randy did for me pulls a 36" bar. I'm running RSLH on it, and bucked & stumped a several Oaks that exceeded the bar length.
 
That looks like a reasonable plan.
A bit off topic for a moment. What are those bush-like plants growing all over the place, one near the base of the cherry tree? They have a similar structure to Asian Honeysuckle. I don't even know if you have that crap there. If so, it is an invasive species and will choke off the entire floor of your woods. Just curious as I spend a lot of time killing that stuff here.
Not sure, but it isn't like autumn olive, or some of the other invasive species we have here. Autumn olive is more of a tree/bush/weed, these are just an overgrown bush. They break off very easy and can be removed quite quickly. They also only grow where the light can penatrates the canopy, so they grow mainly around the edges of the woods or a trail, similar autumn olive and other invasive species.
Gotta go be back later with the conclusion to the OP.
 
Not sure, but it isn't like autumn olive, or some of the other invasive species we have here. Autumn olive is more of a tree/bush/weed, these are just an overgrown bush. They break off very easy and can be removed quite quickly. They also only grow where the light can penatrates the canopy, so they grow mainly around the edges of the woods or a trail, similar autumn olive and other invasive species.
Gotta go be back later with the conclusion to the OP.
Do they get lots of bright red berries on them in the fall?
 

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