Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

[marcy-m]

What Philbert said. I got the Stihl complete sharpening kit which is the round file with file height guide, flat file, and depth guage. Then I bought the Stihl FF1 since I had the other kit. The FF1 helps set the top plate angle.

I told him I needed a sharpening kit, but I guess they push the sharpening service so hard that they don't carry them. I thought the guide was called an F1, but that didn't ring any bells for the guy. I'll go back today, find it in the catalog myself, and order it. Then I'm going to try to find another dealer. Thanks! I'll get this one way or another since I've got wood waiting


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[nomad_archer]

Marcy,
Here is the complete filing kit: http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/accessories/filing-tools/completefilekits/

Here is the FF1 File Guide Holder: http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/accessories/filing-tools/ff1fileguide/

Sounds like a no good dealer. I got lucky when I found my dealer. They sharpen chains as a service but also helped explain to me how to do it on my own and what I needed to get it right. I took a chain in that I couldnt get sharp when I was learning and they explained what I had done wrong and how to correct it. Plus advice on how to use the grinder and a file/guide combo I described. That with the additional help of philbert and I finally got it and have been sharpening scary sharp chains every since.

 

[marcy-m]

Marcy,
Here is the complete filing kit: http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/accessories/filing-tools/completefilekits/

Here is the FF1 File Guide Holder: http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/accessories/filing-tools/ff1fileguide/

That with the additional help of philbert and I finally got it and have been sharpening scary sharp chains every since.

Thanks, I'll show them these links if I have any more trouble. Not used to having a smart phone or I could have looked for it while there yesterday. Duh

I thought about those two out front, and I remembered I didn't ask them those questions. They asked me what I needed from the repair guy after the lady went to get him. I told them I really wanted to learn to sharpen my chain by hand. I guess I should have kept my mouth shut. Whatever.

I'm excited to learn this. I'm sure I won't be sharpening today since the ff1 has to be ordered. I hope I can get to the scary sharp chain status because they don't come from the shop that sharp.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[marcy-m]

Anyone get a lot of smaller stuff when you scrounge? How do you cut it?

We don't need a fire 24/7, so I start lots of fires. That means kindling, so I've been getting smaller stuff, too. I'm just wondering how y'all cut that.

I think I'm going to build a cutting...form I guess you would call it. 4 quarter pallets joined with 1x2 so I could pile all the sticks in there. Then run the saw in between two sets of pallets. Cut a bunch at one time. I don't know what to call it so maybe that's why I can't find anything on google.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[nomad_archer]

I usually dont mess with anything smaller than my forearm. I use a propane plumbing torch as my kindling now since I moved to using MAP gas for my home soldering needs. I have to use up the propane fuel cans and what better way then to start the wood stove. I never would have thought of it but I saw it on AS and thought I would give it a try. So now it is just one less thing for me to have to work with. I use some news paper as well to help get things going.

 

[BillNole]

Marcy, I actually use a chop saw, either in the garage, or sometimes out in my wood cutting corner if there's more than just a few cuts, to cut down small stuff to length. It's quick and easy for whatever fits under the blade. I even use a pair of lopping shears for some of the really small stuff (smaller than thumb thick?) that I'll then set out to dry to use later as kindling.



How's that for reusing an old cracked resin lawn chair? Makes a working drying stand for the little bits...

I too have used a torch for starting fires. I found one with a trigger starter on sale that was just too convenient to pass up and now I wouldn't want to start a fire without it. Smarter or lazier, I don't care. I just like it! haha.

 

[nomad_archer]

Marcy, I actually use a chop saw, either in the garage, or sometimes out in my wood cutting corner if there's more than just a few cuts, to cut down small stuff to length. It's quick and easy for whatever fits under the blade. I even use a pair of lopping shears for some of the really small stuff (smaller than thumb thick?) that I'll then set out to dry to use later as kindling.

View attachment 360432

How's that for reusing an old cracked resin lawn chair? Makes a working drying stand for the little bits...

I too have used a torch for starting fires. I found one with a trigger starter on sale that was just too convenient to pass up and now I wouldn't want to start a fire without it. Smarter or lazier, I don't care. I just like it! haha.

I have the trigger starter as well. It is definitely the ticket.

 

[Philbert]

Lots of ways to sharpen, and lots of gadgets for sale. You don't need them all. You just need to find one way that works for you.

Philbert

 

[nomad_archer]

Lots of ways to sharpen, and lots of gadgets for sale. You don't need them all. You just need to find one way that works for you.

Philbert

I nominate that as the best post of day. There is a lot of wisdom in that post.

 

[Philbert]

Anyone get a lot of smaller stuff when you scrounge? How do you cut it?

I will burn anything thicker than my thumb. I use something like this:

for stuff up to 2" if it is green; slightly smaller if it is dead.

Available at ACE Hardware and most garden centers. $30 - $40. Make sure that it is an 'anvil' type, and has 'compound leverage'.

Your kids can use it on smaller stuff while you saw.

Philbert

 

[hardpan]

I will burn anything thicker than my thumb. I use something like this:
View attachment 360435
for stuff up to 2" if it is green; slightly smaller if it is dead.

Available at ACE Hardware and most garden centers. $30 - $40. Make sure that it is an 'anvil' type, and has 'compound leverage'.

Your kids can use it on smaller stuff while you saw.

Philbert

Just curious why you use the anvil style over the bypass. I've had a couple of both over the years and I like the anvil for dried hard wood better but is their another advantage? I like the bypass to get closer for pruning cuts.

 

[marcy-m]

Here's what we have. The pile behind it is what they won't cut

I'll take a picture of the form when I get it built. May be a few days. Just got the call my mother in law was rushed to ER.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[BillNole]

I'd bring the chop saw out to that and knock it down in little time.

Yikes on the bent handle hatchet!

Hope you MIL is ok, but ER trips are rarely just a trip to get ice cream...

 

[Philbert]

Just curious why you use the anvil style over the bypass.

Anvil cuts through wood better - green or dead, but it crushes the wood fibers around the cut. Bypass makes a cleaner cut, so it it better for pruning branches on living trees that you want to save, but won't cut as deep, especially as it starts to lose its edge, or on dead branches. I have both, but only use the anvil style for storm clean up and firewood tasks.

Compound leverage really makes a difference in applying pressure.

Philbert

 

[Philbert]

Here's what we have. The pile behind it is what they won't cut

There are some photos on the second page of this thread, of sawbucks specifically designed to hold branches for cutting. You don't have to buy these, but they might give you some ideas:
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/how-to-build-a-folding-sawbuck.247300/page-2

Also, Post #6 in this thread:
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/chainsaw-buddy.231742/#post-4219835

Lots of other ideas out there for cutting branches, including the 'JawSaw' and the 'Chainsaw Buddy" (you can Google these if interested). Depends on what you want to spend, where you do your cutting, and how many toys you want to accumulate! A home make version of one of the sawbucks in that thread might be a good start - could build something out of scrap pipe or 2X4's if you have a spot where you normally would cut these up.

OK: one more thread:
http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...all-diameter-bent-wood-and-lots-of-it.186935/

Philbert

 

[CTYank]

I was able to go my local dealer today. I remembered why I didn't go back. When the repair guy came out, he was great. The two guys up front had been trying to convince me that I couldn't sharpen the chain by myself, the machine was better, and there's no way to tell what kind of chain I have...whatever I asked they gave me the wrong answers. Thanks to y'all I knew they were the wrong answers, so thanks again for that. When the repair guy came out, he at least knew what he was talking about. The other two disappeared.

So now I have a file, but none of the guides looked like what I saw here. Anyone have a name for that guide? It's a Stihl dealer

No parts for my saw, though.

I'm thinking about trying to carefully sharpen the saw without it. (Edit: sharpen without the guide)

There are lots of folks who'll tell you to file free-hand- works just fine. Then folks will tell you to have a given loop ground after every so many filings. Point is, there are lots of variables to deal with simultaneously, too many for "normal" people to manage. Anyhow it doesn't have to be a hair-shirt or macho thing.

I'd suggest you forget buying filing kit from a Stihl dealer, unless they sell Granberg's "File-N-Joint". That can be had from Northern Tool for $20-something. See Philbert's picture, but note that the chain is too low and much too far forward. I got one about 35 yrs back and still use the same one. It has a place in my tool bag, so I can touch up a chain anywhere, normally every second refueling. It enables extreme consistency, and with a flat file can set depth gauges very accurately and simply. Normally a single stroke per cutter, maybe two, and they are like razors.

Using that guide, you can easily make any ground chain noticeably better. Myself, I use my NT grinder only on chains that have been used for trenching or other atrocities. I've shown some folks around here how to use that guide. Took minutes, then they maintained their own chains quickly and simply. IMHO the bitsy-piecey filing guides are kludges that can litter the woods. I'm all about K.I.S.S.

 

[nomad_archer]

IMHO the bitsy-piecey filing guides are kludges that can litter the woods. I'm all about K.I.S.S.

We all have opinions but my kludge as you describe it works very very very well for me and takes up less space and doenst need adjusting each time I use it. Not that what you are using takes much effort once you know how to use it either. Again we all find what works for us. But along with the KISS principle the file guilde and file guide holder is technically mechanically simpler then the granberg setup and most likely produces very similar results. But we have had this conversation as well and I would have a granberg but I found something else that worked with what I had that I could source locally for a little less. Thank goodness we have options in saws and accessories otherwise what would we be able to debate about.

 

[Deleted member 83629]

I bought this same kit years ago and the complete filing kit from stihl is very nice, and the files are better than most aftermarket files you find locally.

 

[Erik B]

I encourage you to use a guide - especially if you are starting out.

There are many ways that a file can move unintentionally, leading to unsatisfactory filing results. The various guides help to control at least one of these movements/positions:

- file height;
View attachment 360409
View attachment 360410

- top plate angle;
View attachment 360411

- 'down angle';

- all of these;
View attachment 360412

- file height and depth gauge height;
View attachment 360418


You do not have to use a STIHL file guide on a STIHL saw or chain - (although, some guides only work on certain sizes or brands of chain).

Again, file guides can help you get a consistent, sharp chain, but they still require some practice and skill. Not hard to learn if you understand what you are trying to achieve: sharp top and side plate edges, and consistent cutter angles and lengths.

Philbert

I have a similar guide to the Granberg named the Fercad G.L. high speed 75. The two angle adjustments go from 0 to 45 degrees for the top angle and 0 to 40 degrees for the up/down angle. I usually set the top angle for 30 degrees but I am not sure what to set the other angle for. I had been setting it to 5 degrees but I have been reading some places where it should be 0 degrees. What are the angles you use? Thanks

 

[Philbert]

30 and 0° is a good place to start, unless you have a reason to set it differently.

Philbert