Only ever had 2 2wd, 60 something f100 that was supposed to be my first "car". My pop cought me doing burnouts with it, and sold it. Then I briefly had a 79 f150 short bed. But I never did any headers or engine work to either, or even bothered to lift the hood unless I absolutely had to. My 73 and 75 are basically the same truck, just the 73 is stick and the 75 an auto. Both 4x4, divorced t-case. "High boy" if you will. Solid headers suck to put on.
Hey Cowboy, can I get a few points added to MY score, for THIS load?? lolI think that @H-Ranch should have a few points deducted from his score for the SOTY trophy because it is just a bit too easy cutting from a pile. There, I said it.
I'm not even in the running. My hat's off to the two of you.
Last time I was in Vermont, maybe it was New Hampshire, I forget.. But they had " corn cob smoked bacon ". It was flat out to die for.. Haven't seen it since. Next time I shoot a pig, the whole thing is going that way. I'm also surprised to not hear of it anywhere else.. Oh, thick sliced too.There fixed it for you.
We're switching to electric saws
...temporarily.
Was the engine hard to pull? Be careful when dead-heading hydraulics with black-iron pipe caps like that, especially dead-heading the pump. That's a pretty big no-no. Is it a pressure rated cap or just a run-of-the-mill pipe cap from the hardware store? If the engine would have started, there is no relief to relieve excess pressure because the relief is on the control valve which you have eliminated from the system. Had it started, the system would have built pressure until the engine would've stalled as it couldn't produce any more pressure, or you blew something in the capped off line set.
First off, yes, it was a black iron pipe cap and I was aware of its pressure rating and the potential of failure.
I agree, but we don't have any bloody Aussie trees here to burn, what's a guy to do
.Got the blueberry stems watered
..
.They aren't the worse thing with a well done chain, but they have to be very well matched to the saw.
Dang huskys
.Sweet.
.
Sorry, forgot to mention, I did remove the relief spring and ball. Both were intact and clean. I even went so far as back blow the valve seat by removing spring/ball and running the splitter for only a second. Oil gushed out of the port. So, I'm left with shimming the spring and seeing if that helps. Still need to find a definitive way to check the pump.Copy all of that.
To your fourth point; it sounds like your issue is in the control valve. Either a faulty/stuck relief, or you have a worn spool causing severe leakage.
As far as a faulty relief, you could have a chunk of debris holding the relief open, or the pressure spring is broken and it only takes ~200psi to overcome it. If this was the case, it wouldn't respond to adjustments.
Time to tear the control valve apart and check it out. You can buy seal kits for them, but it doesn't look like relief parts (spring and ball) are included.
