Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

[Lee192233]

Looking for a little help / ideas. I wear this style Red Wing boot all the time for outdoor work like wood. Bought a new pair for the first time in several years. I'm having a tough time with break-in. Heard that some talcum powder will help with getting them pulled on. My real issue is they are really eating the outside of my ankles while wearing. See indicated area. Both feet. Any ideas to soften the leather or aid break-in?View attachment 1236889

I use Obenauf's when I get new boots. I retreat if they get soaked with water. Fair warning...the leather will darken if you use it.
https://www.obenaufs.com/natural-preserving-oils-p/leather-oil.htm

 

[MechanicMatt]

 

[GrizG]

Looking for a little help / ideas. I wear this style Red Wing boot all the time for outdoor work like wood. Bought a new pair for the first time in several years. I'm having a tough time with break-in. Heard that some talcum powder will help with getting them pulled on. My real issue is they are really eating the outside of my ankles while wearing. See indicated area. Both feet. Any ideas to soften the leather or aid break-in?View attachment 1236889

My experiences... yours may vary!

I've been using Nick's, White's and Obenauf boot grease and boot oil on my Nick's, White's and Kennetrek boots. I think Obenauf may actually make all three brands. That said, wearing the boots and suffering some discomfort is all part of the process with full grain leather boots. One day you will realize you haven't noticed the boots in a while!

While it will make a mess of your socks, applying the product to the inside of the boot at the pinch points when they are new will help soften the leather faster. The socks should come clean in the laundry.

Don't reapply the product until the boots start to look dry. This as it is possible to over soften the leather by frequently applying grease/oil. Nick's recommends not applying the product heavily around the eyelets and speed hooks. They claim that if you do you can tear the eyelets/speed hooks out of the leather.

I brush the dirt off regularly, and saddle soap them as needed, to keep the leather clean and supple. Saddle soap regularly if you subject them to road salt!

 

[H-Ranch]

You could try to wet mold the case to fit the slightly larger tool… moisten the leather evenly with a sponge or spray bottle but don’t soak it. Then force the “new” tool into the case and allow it to dry. You could also bone the leather with something like a wooden spoon to help move the leather around. I made tool holsters for pruning shears and felling wedges by wet forming and boning.

It seems you have nothing to lose here if the effort fails except a little time.

After it dries use mink oil, neatsfoot oil, or some other product to preserve the leather.

I did consider that and probably would have dunked it so thanks for the tips. I did peruse a couple of custom sheath websites - looks like really nice stuff, but maybe a bit pricy for my needs. But I may get to justify it as a gift and it sure would be nice to have a quality piece.

 

[H-Ranch]

They just took pride in making something work again.

I TOTALLY get that!

They had a thing at work several years ago where they asked everyone to write the answer to "What drives you?" on a name tag sticker to wear at an event. People wrote lots of things - family, power, curiosity, religion, fear, money, retirement, etc. I took a while to write mine down, but settled on "The ability to do it myself."

 

[StihlMS360]

@sundance I had a German shepherd pup that once softened a pair of mine pretty good... actually a little too good.

 

[GrizG]

I did consider that and probably would have dunked it so thanks for the tips. I did peruse a couple of custom sheath websites - looks like really nice stuff, but maybe a bit pricy for my needs. But I may get to justify it as a gift and it sure would be nice to have a quality piece.

I do what I call Utility Leatherwork... sheaths for knives, axes, hatchets, ditch bank blades, brush axes and holsters for other tools. I also repair those types of products when I can and have extended straps for field bags and such that didn't hang low enough. These products tend to get beat up in use so I don't worry about carving, embossing, real fine edge dressing, and such!

Pirate Upholstery was nearby and Jay does much nicer work! He made a lot of the seats for Orange County Chopper (American Chopper TV show). The shop was still there the last time I looked but he had switched over to more common products like wallets, belts, etc. as the motorcycle (chopper) tread died off. The Pirate Upholstery name seems to have been retired.

https://www.osegmotorcycle.com/html/pirate_upholstery.html

 

[GrizG]

I grew up watching my Grabdpa Newt fix everything at his house, my dad at ours and Mustang Mike at his house. It’s not like they didn’t have the money to replace whatever it was. They just took pride in making something work again.

One time my dad told me to fix one of my toys. I told him, what if I can’t. His response was perfect, “it’s already broken, what do you have to lose”

Then when I was young, married and kids with no extra money, fixing everything was mandatory.

Funny cause Uncle Mike and I were just talking about pops famous, “it’s already broken” line the last time we were at deer camp

This echoes my experiences and it has been passed on to my sons. I refer to it as carrying the Terminal Cheapness Gene.

 

[Lee192233]

These are my 14 year old Red Wing bird hunting boots. I had them resoled 4 years ago. I first treated them with Obenauf's LP paste. I treat the dry spots with Obenauf's oil.
These are my new Thorogoods that are getting oiled for the first time. I picked these up for $90 at the Thorogood factory outlet. One of the tongues has a tiny hole in it.
Before...

After...

 

[JimR]

So this happened last night:
View attachment 1236758
I was absolutely stunned. I was trying to loosen a shackle on the front bumper of the Jeep and it came apart. I wasn't even torquing it that hard, in fact with the handle design, you can't really put that much on it without hurting your hand. I've had it for 30+ years and the warranty is 25 years - I don't have the original purchase receipt anyway. I checked the Leatherman website and don't see replacement parts I can purchase to repair it. I have other, newer multitools, but would like to fix this if for no other reason than nostalgic. I wore it to work every day for a long, long time and it saved me from headaches on more than one occasion when it was the only tool I had. I've worn out at least 3 belt cases with it. Darn it! That's what I get for helping to tow my daughter's friend off the side of the road.

I've had this one nearly as long:
View attachment 1236760
But it's just a smidgen larger than the original Leatherman so it doesn't quite fit in the leather case. The woven case for it is long gone. Anyone have a good, reasonably priced source for cases?

Send it in for repairs. You might be surprised that they fix it for free.

 

[JimR]

Looking for a little help / ideas. I wear this style Red Wing boot all the time for outdoor work like wood. Bought a new pair for the first time in several years. I'm having a tough time with break-in. Heard that some talcum powder will help with getting them pulled on. My real issue is they are really eating the outside of my ankles while wearing. See indicated area. Both feet. Any ideas to soften the leather or aid break-in?View attachment 1236889

Add some padding or gauze pads inside your socks to push the boot sides outwards. I had to do this with a new pair of boots once. Right now I'm trying to break in a pair of Chippewa logging boots. The leather is so thick that it won't stretch in the area on top of my left foot. I can only wear them for about an hour before my left foot starts hurting.

 

[JimR]

Those were great machines!

I actually have an old heavy-duty Roper from the 90s. It still works, but the machine won't stay put on it's feet. It shakes so vigorously on the 'spin cycle' that it was pulling the drain hose out of the PVC pipe.
I have always liked that machine, but I can't get it to stop shaking so terribly. The only partial fix is to only wash super light clothes on it, things like underwear, tee shirts, etc. My heavy work pants, sheets, etc. will shake it to death.

Your wobble washers are worn out. Years ago our original GE washing machine circa 1975 did that. I took it apart to fix it. There were rubber rollers inside near the top of the housing to keep the tub from going wacko in the spin cycle. If you balance out the load it will spin without going crazy. If you want some great fun with the wife sit her up on the washer during the spin cycle.

 

[Logger nate]

Good day to you fellow appliance repair/ review gentleman. Skipped a few pages but kinda getting caught up. Hope everyone is staying warm, been kinda cold here too
Staying in my camper on the job, using lots of propane and generator gas, not terrible though. Speaking of plowing snow…My 562 xpg was down on power, pulled muffler-scored piston not sure what happened yet, could be 4 years wearing a 32” bar. Was going to sell (cheap) as a project but after looking at new replacement cost woodwhacker will probably repair this one for me.
That’s all I have for now..
Have a good Sunday

 

[JimR]

@sundance I had a German shepherd pup that once softened a pair of mine pretty good... actually a little too good.

Urine tanned leather or spit chew leather

 

[JimR]

My 562 xpg was down on power, pulled muffler-scored piston not sure what happened yet, could be 4 years wearing a 32” bar.

A 32" bar is too big for the 562xp. Try using 40-1 oil ratio mix.

 

[Logger nate]

A 32" bar is too big for the 562xp. Try using 40-1 oil ratio mix.

It works fine. XS ported with red beard air it pulls 32” in soft wood, I’ve had 4 of them, this is first failure. I use red armor at 40:1. 4 years commercial use is pretty good with any length bar.

 

[StihlMS360]

Urine tanned leather or spit chew leather

Spit chewed leather!

 

[MustangMike]

It works fine. XS ported with red beard air it pulls 32” in soft wood, I’ve had 4 of them, this is first failure. I use red armor at 40:1. 4 years commercial use is pretty good with any length bar.

I was going to ask the same question Nate, not that you are not correct (about length of use), but there seemed to be just a bit too much carbon in that port.

I use AMSOIL Saber at 40:1 and swear by the stuff. Not sure if it would be worth it, but you may want to give it a try.

Also, I gave you a love for the pictures, but wanted to give a sad face for the saw (but can't do 2).

 

[WoodAbuser]

With all the talk on here about stoves I thot it was time to talk about accessories. No matter what type of stove you like or dislike accessories make or break it. If you dislike a glass-top you can easily modify it with one of these.

the smallest pan shown is somewhere between 80 or 90 years old. the next biggest is somewhere between 90 and 100 years old. The biggest it 60 to 80 years old and the sauce pan is about a year old. No Red Armor or Amsoil Saber were used for seasoning. (Wanted to keep this on topic)
At ease, carry on, smoke em if you got em.

 

[Logger nate]

I was going to ask the same question Nate, not that you are not correct (about length of use), but there seemed to be just a bit too much carbon in that port.

I use AMSOIL Saber at 40:1 and swear by the stuff. Not sure if it would be worth it, but you may want to give it a try.

Also, I gave you a love for the pictures, but wanted to give a sad face for the saw (but can't do 2).

Thanks Mike. Kevin said same thing (Amsoil). Red armor leaves more oil residue on engine internals than any other oil I’ve seen but does seem to leave carbon and junk in exhaust-muffler. Possible carbon caused the marks on piston . I haven’t tried amsoil before because it wasn’t easy to find here at a reasonable price but I’m going to try it.