Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

[sean donato]

So this happened last night:
View attachment 1236758
I was absolutely stunned. I was trying to loosen a shackle on the front bumper of the Jeep and it came apart. I wasn't even torquing it that hard, in fact with the handle design, you can't really put that much on it without hurting your hand. I've had it for 30+ years and the warranty is 25 years - I don't have the original purchase receipt anyway. I checked the Leatherman website and don't see replacement parts I can purchase to repair it. I have other, newer multitools, but would like to fix this if for no other reason than nostalgic. I wore it to work every day for a long, long time and it saved me from headaches on more than one occasion when it was the only tool I had. I've worn out at least 3 belt cases with it. Darn it! That's what I get for helping to tow my daughter's friend off the side of the road.

I've had this one nearly as long:
View attachment 1236760
But it's just a smidgen larger than the original Leatherman so it doesn't quite fit in the leather case. The woven case for it is long gone. Anyone have a good, reasonably priced source for cases?

You don't need the recipt to get them replaced, and as long as that specific model has been made within 25 years, they will replace it with the newer equivalent. I break them like that pretty frequently. About once a year I send all the busted one back in, and amy busted ones my family or co-workers have. Never had one returned for being too old.

 

[sean donato]

Well, it's "done". We'll, not done, but good enough for now and functional. I would have liked to make some more adjustments (and will when I get some more free time.) But, I need to use the tractor tomorrow,so I put this version on and did the wiring. Feels pretty decent in the hand, but I can't get the other 2 switches in the front i wanted to add, their bodies are too long. There are some shorter versions, I neglected to think about that when I did this last print. Also need to tighten where it slides onto the 3/8" rod. Nothing a bit of tape didn't fix temporarily. I really struggle with cad programs, and making things like this how I want it, so it takes me 4x longer then someone more familiar with the program.

 

[sundance]

Have you checked with 1000Bulbs.com?
Last time I needed some (less than a year ago) they still sold them.

Out of stock.

 

[GrizG]

So this happened last night:
View attachment 1236758
I was absolutely stunned. I was trying to loosen a shackle on the front bumper of the Jeep and it came apart. I wasn't even torquing it that hard, in fact with the handle design, you can't really put that much on it without hurting your hand. I've had it for 30+ years and the warranty is 25 years - I don't have the original purchase receipt anyway. I checked the Leatherman website and don't see replacement parts I can purchase to repair it. I have other, newer multitools, but would like to fix this if for no other reason than nostalgic. I wore it to work every day for a long, long time and it saved me from headaches on more than one occasion when it was the only tool I had. I've worn out at least 3 belt cases with it. Darn it! That's what I get for helping to tow my daughter's friend off the side of the road.

I've had this one nearly as long:
View attachment 1236760
But it's just a smidgen larger than the original Leatherman so it doesn't quite fit in the leather case. The woven case for it is long gone. Anyone have a good, reasonably priced source for cases?

You could try to wet mold the case to fit the slightly larger tool… moisten the leather evenly with a sponge or spray bottle but don’t soak it. Then force the “new” tool into the case and allow it to dry. You could also bone the leather with something like a wooden spoon to help move the leather around. I made tool holsters for pruning shears and felling wedges by wet forming and boning.

It seems you have nothing to lose here if the effort fails except a little time.

After it dries use mink oil, neatsfoot oil, or some other product to preserve the leather.

 

[Philbert]

You don't need the recipt to get them replaced, and as long as that specific model has been made within 25 years, they will replace it with the newer equivalent. I break them like that pretty frequently. About once a year I send all the busted one back in, and amy busted ones my family or co-workers have. Never had one returned for being too old.

What causes them to break that often?

Thanks.

Philbert

 

[MechanicMatt]

Maybe take the nameplate off and put it on a washer you find on Craigslist that was made 20 years ago? Refurbish it, install it while she's gone, and tell her you fixed it!

My grandfather had the same reputation - as many of us do, but especially those that were raised during the Great Depression. One time my young cousin had an old doll that broke, head or arm or something ripped off beyond repair (I was not involved, i swear.) But he took it to fix anyway. Somehow, he found the exact doll still for sale at the store. He gave it to her with his reputation intact as the best fixer!

I grew up watching my Grabdpa Newt fix everything at his house, my dad at ours and Mustang Mike at his house. It’s not like they didn’t have the money to replace whatever it was. They just took pride in making something work again.

One time my dad told me to fix one of my toys. I told him, what if I can’t. His response was perfect, “it’s already broken, what do you have to lose”

Then when I was young, married and kids with no extra money, fixing everything was mandatory.

Funny cause Uncle Mike and I were just talking about pops famous, “it’s already broken” line the last time we were at deer camp

 

[sundance]

Looking for a little help / ideas. I wear this style Red Wing boot all the time for outdoor work like wood. Bought a new pair for the first time in several years. I'm having a tough time with break-in. Heard that some talcum powder will help with getting them pulled on. My real issue is they are really eating the outside of my ankles while wearing. See indicated area. Both feet. Any ideas to soften the leather or aid break-in?

 

[MechanicMatt]

I like the water proofing wax’s to soften them up. I just don’t put too much on as then they are to prone to tears

Mink oil works too

 

[MechanicMatt]

I actually use that stuff on my traditional muzzleloader too

 

[benz66]

That's true, thank you for reminding me of that.

After the previous administration decided to outlaw has appliances, I went out and bought another gas stove and dryer. I know, I know, I'm paranoid, but I
I didn't know what was actually going to happen. I figured I was better safe than sorry and I had room to store them, so I bought them.

I haven't been happy with the quantity of water that dishwashers and washing machines use for about the past 7-8 years.
In 2017 (maybe it was 2018, I can't remember exactly) my favorite Whirlpool washing machine started leaking. The tub was cracked and not worth fixing. So I went out and bought a new washing machine. The new machine was a Maytag (someone later told me Whirlpool now owns them).
I think the MSRP was around $900, I bought it in full, paid cash.

The first things I noticed were all the added electronic features, washing cycles, and what seemed to be a relatively cheaply made machine, at least for $900.

Then the machine really started to make me mad. I would come in from the shop or some other outside job and throw my dirtied clothes in the washer. And I really hated it since that first load. It took it over an hour to do one load, compared to 30 minutes on the old machine. The dang thing would lock the lid, "a safety feature" . That made me mad because occasionally I forget things in my pockets and have to run down and take them out. And the machine was a pain in my *** to override the safety lock.

Then when I would take out my "clean clothes" it was still covered in dirt, grease and grime. This went on for a little bit and I decided to research it. I came to find out that the stupid thing was literally weighing my clothes to decide how much water to use. Yes, you read that right, it was weighing my clothes.
The only fix was to wash everything in the "heavy sheets" cycle. Even this didn't totally fix it, my clothes was never as clean. Problem was the drain holes on the tub were too small.
A friend of mine that's a firefighter has continually had the same problem.

I fiddle farted around with that dang machine for 2-3 months. I finally got fed up with it and sold it at a great loss after I found a better machine on Craigslist.

The machine I found on CL was an older Whirlpool like the one the Maytag replaced. I still have it and am very happy with it.

For a good washing machine, the old Maytag made Maytags, with one knob in the center (old dependable) are hard to beat. I had a GE in the house I bought in 1994, and it did ok, but it beat clothes to pieces. They are still around but too many went to the scrapyard simply because they were 20 years old, or needed a $7 belt. They are the 240Diesel of washing machines.

 

[benz66]

Our washer is making some crazy noises here lately, I suspect it will die soon. I had heard of speed queen before but never looked into them. They’re 2-3 times the price of the typical Home Depot crap. However the high end washer uses a 1hp motor. The box store crap you’re lucky if it’s a 1/3hp motor. I never thought I’d be considering a $1500 washer but I just might! Our set is maybe 7 years old.

Before you spend that kind of money, look for a used Dexter commercial toploader. I bought a Speedqueen in 1980. I think it crapped out in 1987. Very sturdy and well built, but not durable. Being in commercial service, parts are available, but maybe not in the home appliance channels. There is a huge parts distributor in chicago, Sundburg or something like that.

 

[benz66]

I got plenty of ways to cook besides the stupid electric stove. So thats not really a worry. I just genuinely hate this new stove.

I was waiting for someone to say something like that. No, I don't, nor would I use an incandescent light bulb for a heat source. It makes heat because it sucks at producing light, and since it makes light it's not an efficient heat generator. You can buy a ceramic heating elements that thread into a light bulb socket. We use them on the kids lizard tanks. Makes more heat and last way longer then incandescent or the "red" heat lamps. Like I said, out side of I need an incandescent bulb for the deep freeze, and oven I have zero use for them as lights or heaters.

I use those lizard heaters to heat my pump house. the 120v ones burned out pretty often (Cheepchineechit) so for 50w, I bought 240v 100w. Run on 120v, they should last nearly forever. I have 2, heaters, 2 controls on 2 circuits for redundancy. I set one a little higher than the other, and if it is under 20 below for a long time, both can run.

 

[Stihl_Fanatic]

For a good washing machine, the old Maytag made Maytags, with one knob in the center (old dependable) are hard to beat. I had a GE in the house I bought in 1994, and it did ok, but it beat clothes to pieces. They are still around but too many went to the scrapyard simply because they were 20 years old, or needed a $7 belt. They are the 240Diesel of washing machines.

Those were great machines!

I actually have an old heavy-duty Roper from the 90s. It still works, but the machine won't stay put on it's feet. It shakes so vigorously on the 'spin cycle' that it was pulling the drain hose out of the PVC pipe.
I have always liked that machine, but I can't get it to stop shaking so terribly. The only partial fix is to only wash super light clothes on it, things like underwear, tee shirts, etc. My heavy work pants, sheets, etc. will shake it to death.

 

[Lee192233]

Looking for a little help / ideas. I wear this style Red Wing boot all the time for outdoor work like wood. Bought a new pair for the first time in several years. I'm having a tough time with break-in. Heard that some talcum powder will help with getting them pulled on. My real issue is they are really eating the outside of my ankles while wearing. See indicated area. Both feet. Any ideas to soften the leather or aid break-in?View attachment 1236889

I use Obenauf's when I get new boots. I retreat if they get soaked with water. Fair warning...the leather will darken if you use it.
https://www.obenaufs.com/natural-preserving-oils-p/leather-oil.htm

 

[MechanicMatt]

 

[GrizG]

Looking for a little help / ideas. I wear this style Red Wing boot all the time for outdoor work like wood. Bought a new pair for the first time in several years. I'm having a tough time with break-in. Heard that some talcum powder will help with getting them pulled on. My real issue is they are really eating the outside of my ankles while wearing. See indicated area. Both feet. Any ideas to soften the leather or aid break-in?View attachment 1236889

My experiences... yours may vary!

I've been using Nick's, White's and Obenauf boot grease and boot oil on my Nick's, White's and Kennetrek boots. I think Obenauf may actually make all three brands. That said, wearing the boots and suffering some discomfort is all part of the process with full grain leather boots. One day you will realize you haven't noticed the boots in a while!

While it will make a mess of your socks, applying the product to the inside of the boot at the pinch points when they are new will help soften the leather faster. The socks should come clean in the laundry.

Don't reapply the product until the boots start to look dry. This as it is possible to over soften the leather by frequently applying grease/oil. Nick's recommends not applying the product heavily around the eyelets and speed hooks. They claim that if you do you can tear the eyelets/speed hooks out of the leather.

I brush the dirt off regularly, and saddle soap them as needed, to keep the leather clean and supple. Saddle soap regularly if you subject them to road salt!

 

[H-Ranch]

You could try to wet mold the case to fit the slightly larger tool… moisten the leather evenly with a sponge or spray bottle but don’t soak it. Then force the “new” tool into the case and allow it to dry. You could also bone the leather with something like a wooden spoon to help move the leather around. I made tool holsters for pruning shears and felling wedges by wet forming and boning.

It seems you have nothing to lose here if the effort fails except a little time.

After it dries use mink oil, neatsfoot oil, or some other product to preserve the leather.

I did consider that and probably would have dunked it so thanks for the tips. I did peruse a couple of custom sheath websites - looks like really nice stuff, but maybe a bit pricy for my needs. But I may get to justify it as a gift and it sure would be nice to have a quality piece.

 

[H-Ranch]

They just took pride in making something work again.

I TOTALLY get that!

They had a thing at work several years ago where they asked everyone to write the answer to "What drives you?" on a name tag sticker to wear at an event. People wrote lots of things - family, power, curiosity, religion, fear, money, retirement, etc. I took a while to write mine down, but settled on "The ability to do it myself."

 

[Stihl_Fanatic]

@sundance I had a German shepherd pup that once softened a pair of mine pretty good... actually a little too good.

 

[GrizG]

I did consider that and probably would have dunked it so thanks for the tips. I did peruse a couple of custom sheath websites - looks like really nice stuff, but maybe a bit pricy for my needs. But I may get to justify it as a gift and it sure would be nice to have a quality piece.

I do what I call Utility Leatherwork... sheaths for knives, axes, hatchets, ditch bank blades, brush axes and holsters for other tools. I also repair those types of products when I can and have extended straps for field bags and such that didn't hang low enough. These products tend to get beat up in use so I don't worry about carving, embossing, real fine edge dressing, and such!

Pirate Upholstery was nearby and Jay does much nicer work! He made a lot of the seats for Orange County Chopper (American Chopper TV show). The shop was still there the last time I looked but he had switched over to more common products like wallets, belts, etc. as the motorcycle (chopper) tread died off. The Pirate Upholstery name seems to have been retired.

https://www.osegmotorcycle.com/html/pirate_upholstery.html