sharpener
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Guido Salvage
Supreme Saw Whoreder
There are a number of guides and jigs available that you either clamp onto your bar or that lay over it that will allow you to achieve uniform angles across all your cutters with a file. All the major saw and chain manufacturers offer them, as well as site sponsor Baileys. I have given you a link below as an example:
Chain Saw Filing & Sharpening Tools - Chainsaw Accessories | STIHL
There are also handheld 12V electric grinders as well as 120V bench mounted grinders if you are doing volumes of chains.
Chain Saw Filing & Sharpening Tools - Chainsaw Accessories | STIHL
There are also handheld 12V electric grinders as well as 120V bench mounted grinders if you are doing volumes of chains.
I wouldn't give up on the hand file so easily. Watch the Stihl.com how to sharpen your chainsaw video and you should see that if you have the right tools (round file, flat file and depth gauge) and are conservative with you filing its pretty hard to go wrong. I butchered my first chain by overdoing it freehand but once I realized that by keeping an eye on the depth and cleaning up the cutting edges regularly with a couple swipes of the file there was nothing to it.
if you go to home depot and get a "file guide" commonly oregon brand is carried. it comes with a file, handle, and a "guide" once assembled its almost impossible to mess up a chain you might throw the angle off a bit but it will still cut and you can try and recover the next time around its only like 8 bucks for the thing
$$$ ?
It depends on your situation...if money is a major issue, or you like the "personal skill" feeling...persevere with the hand file. If you want to go another route...buy an electric grinder. I'm delighted with the Timber Tuff grinder for ~ $140. After I figured out how to set it up, and after experimenting with a chain several times....the chains are so damned sharp, it's a pleasure to lay the bar on a log.
I buggered around for ages, unsure of which grinder / if I should etc.....extremely happy with what I have now.
I only have 3/8 Stihl chains.
It depends on your situation...if money is a major issue, or you like the "personal skill" feeling...persevere with the hand file. If you want to go another route...buy an electric grinder. I'm delighted with the Timber Tuff grinder for ~ $140. After I figured out how to set it up, and after experimenting with a chain several times....the chains are so damned sharp, it's a pleasure to lay the bar on a log.
I buggered around for ages, unsure of which grinder / if I should etc.....extremely happy with what I have now.
I only have 3/8 Stihl chains.
4675797
ArboristSite Lurker
I think the hand file work the best but dermal makes a chain saw shaping grinding wheel
sgreanbeans
Treeaculterologist
That's what I have, if you look at the Oregon one, they are the exact same thing! Different colors! Good little machine for 140
treemandan
Tree Freak
Yes you can... AND YOU WILL! Don't give up now. There are other things to consider when sharpening. Maybe the bar is beat; enlarged groove, peened over rails. That will make the chain feel dull.
lumberjackmoe
ArboristSite Lurker
Checking for accuracy
I purchased a NT sharpener and have had it about 1 week now. Like so many others I had a broken wheel. Wouldn't you know it it was the one that I needed to sharpen my chains with a 3/8" pitch. The chains are Oregon 72 GL.
There is another forum about this NT grinder that listed all of the mod to bring this grinder up to par.
I was wondering about the precision of the measurements. I tried to the best of my ability to try to figure out if the displays were accurate. Found they were surprising inaccurate. I don't feel that the inaccuracies would be that drastic to make that much difference in the performance of the cutting.
Has anyone else wonder about the inaccuracies and attempted to see if they were accurate ?
I purchased a NT sharpener and have had it about 1 week now. Like so many others I had a broken wheel. Wouldn't you know it it was the one that I needed to sharpen my chains with a 3/8" pitch. The chains are Oregon 72 GL.
There is another forum about this NT grinder that listed all of the mod to bring this grinder up to par.
I was wondering about the precision of the measurements. I tried to the best of my ability to try to figure out if the displays were accurate. Found they were surprising inaccurate. I don't feel that the inaccuracies would be that drastic to make that much difference in the performance of the cutting.
Has anyone else wonder about the inaccuracies and attempted to see if they were accurate ?
The angles are not super critical. close to 30-35 deg across the top and close to 60 deg top to bottom. It is more important that the cutters, left and right are equal length all the way around the chain loop. The other thing to not forget is to take a couple swipes off the depth gauges. There are gauges to check their height for a couple bucks.
shooterschafer
ArboristSite Member
A good swiss made handfile will cut great , I always use a handfile unless the teeth get dinged real bad from a nail, rock or whatever. Then its time to put it on my MAXX benchmount. I hate taking a chain off for sharpening I often leave a chain on the saw for the life of it unless the bar needs a dressing. German files are pretty good but swiss kick ars !
shooterschafer
ArboristSite Member
I also tend to file the drags on a new chain, just a couple of swipes , if you get them uneven its difficult to get them even again so little by little is best I have found. Next on my list is a diamond wheel for my bench mount grinder.
D&B Mack
Sawin Wit It!
I found this was the easiest while still remaining effective.
Bailey's - Pferd ChainSharp Filing Guide
Bailey's - Pferd ChainSharp Filing Guide
spydahead
ArboristSite Member
Do a search in the chainsaw forum for the (timberline chain saw sharpener), best purchase i've made in a while.
Welcome to A.S.
You can see that there are a lot of opinions when it comes to sharpening. Some people don't even bother and pay someone else to do it.
If you want to get really good file results try starting with the Granberg type filing jigs for under $30. These take a little bit of attention to figure out, but once you do, you will get sharp, dead-on, consistent cutters. They use regular files. Not the fastest solution, but they will also help you understand how to free-hand file better, and can be used to clean-up chains that you might touch up in the field by hand.
Bailey's - Granberg File-N-Joint Precision Filing Guide
If you have a larger number of chains to do, I recommend one of the better quality grinders: typically cost $260 up, unless you find a good deal on a used one.
These are not 'automatic' - they still require some patience and experience to gain skill with them so that you sharpen consistently and don't burn chains.
Bailey's - Speed Sharp Star Chain Grinder
Philbert
ShadeTreeWelder
ArboristSite Operative
You do not want a diamond wheel for steel chain, diamond should only be used on carbide chain. Diamond is carbon, carbon is soluble in steel, therefore steel and diamond are not compatible.
for Steel you want a CBN, cubic boron nitride wheel, common brand name is Borazon.
I'm looking for info on chain shapeners but I can't find an answer to my question so I will ask here to keep more info in one place. I was looking at the Grandberg File-N-Joint but I also saw some other sharpeners that ere similar but made by someone else I think oregon and forester. Anyone have any experience with these? They are $10 less so I want to know if they are good or should I buy a Grandberg?
Between them the basic design is similar, materials that they are made out of might differ. I have used a couple different models in the field. Granted i was in a hurry, but they did work ok. I am biased though because I have been using a bench grinding machine for more than 20 years, part of my business, so because of that have developed the " touch " with those units. I have one of the 12 volt hand grinders, not as accurate as the hand style we are discussing, Stones wear out too quick to my way of thinking. I think I am going to try another 12v unit which works like my bench units but clamps on the bar, but not the $250 Oregon version, as again it it is only for my field use as sometimes ya get caught short on sharp chains ( hidden nasties in wood). Had 1 last year ( concrete in log ) kept trying different spots 1/2 foot away from each other , just couldn't find a clean spot. Someone pasted up the tree with morter and then the tree grew over it, a good 4-5 inches deep. Extremely frustrating afternoon dealing with that one. We could not get it rolled over either, found out later there was a 6" dia. branch stuck down in the dirt about 2 ft.
Dave,
Here is a link to a thread that I started on that topic. Not comparing the Timberline to the File-N-Joint models, but a number of comments about the subtle and not so subtle differences between similar 'clamp-on-frame-style-file-guides'.
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/193630.htm
Quick summary is that the Granberg is a good bet for $30 (sometimes on sale for less). Some people prefer the older style ones that are only available used. There are larger format units and smaller format units (see photos in the referenced thread). There are lots variations in materials between different brands and models. I would stick with a name brand (e.g. 'Oregon') over a no-brand unit for a first try.
Philbert
treemandan
Tree Freak
Oh quit yer whinning, you lernt how to piss in a pot didn't ya? Man, if you can't figure it out a hand file then Lord help ya with that electric one.
