Sharpening in the Field

[clearance]

Ray Benson-I guess American dimes are thicker, wonder what that means.

 

[ray benson]

Could only come up with a 1982 Canadian dime. Measured .040" but had a thicker rim. So a well worn canadian dime might work.

 

[Freakingstang]

Stihl recommends that the RS is filed with a 30 degree top-plate angle, with the file held level, while Oregon recommends a 25 degree top-plate and handle down for a 10 degree upward angle.
These excact angles is not critical, but I prefer to stay as close as possible to them, unless I know why I want it otherwise.

To fit loosely over the .063 Stihl chain I use (RSC and RM), I had to widen the slots that fit over the chain. This widening was done in such a way that the top-plate angle was changed to close to 30 degrees at the same time (it is easy to figure out how to do it when you look at the guide and chain from above).
Because of the shallower slope of the Stihl chain vs. Oregon, you may also need to deepen the forward slots on either side slightly to get the file at the right height for a new chain.
I haven't bothered about adjusting the rear slots by building them up, but I know that someone recommends it.

By the way, I don't usually use the guides when just touching up a chain in the woods. I usually use them in combination with a wise on a bench, after the days cutting is finished.

Thanks

Steve

 

[buck futter]

Oz,

Duh of course it has a lot of hook that is the race side, for everyday work you just change direction of the chain. That is a terrific example of the Gypo CCCC. (Cull Cutter Combination Chain) This type of high technology must only be available in Canada.
If I'm in the woods and I want to touch up the chain I find a low cut stump of a chunk of wood to rest the B&C on and then I kneel over the saw with my balzac resting on the top of the rear handle or on the air filter. You can buy a handle with the angle on the handle that looks like triangle ears sticking out of each side, one side is 25 and the other is 30 degrees. I have tried the husky/oregon roller guide I thought so much of it I gave it to my worst enemy. And I debated whether or not it was ethical to give it to him. I do like the depth gauge atached to that better than the stihl depth gauge.

Practice, Practice, Practice.


Lucky

AKA Buck

 

[Gypo Logger]

Hey Buck, glad you like the combination chain. lol
Anyway, I found this filing jig and thought it might be good for learning to square file as well.
John

 

[ozflea]

I don't mean to knock you Gypo logger but i'm a little surprised by some of the responces certain questions get from newbies and some get a little confusing along the way and misleading.

Sure we have plenty of experiance on this forum but the guy just wanted some straight forward info and the next thing off down the mountain trail we go.

Sharpening to a newbee is confusing but reading your saws owners manual sure removes a lot of confusion especially in the chain sharpening section.

I find a filing jig great for use at the end of a days work for then you have the time to correct and even out those quick touchups that you have done throughout the day.
Start by finding the worst worn tooth refile it removing any damage to get a clean crisp edge then file the rest of the cutters to the same specs.

Mc Bob.

 

[SawTroll]

Roller guides - continued

Thanks

I guess you have noticed it yourself, but these guides do not give you the correct angles automatically. Good references and correct file height is what they provide.
You have to use your eyes and the inside of your head as well, to get the angles right.

 

[SawTroll]

Here is another tread that is relevant to this discussion.

 

[Gypo Logger]

Dan, I had one of those filing jigs once and although I never use a guide, I did try it and I believe it may be the best one out there.
My cutter above is very exaggerated and was done for a joke. Sorry if anyone thought it was an example of a good cutter.
Anyway, I square grind all my chain now, but did hand file for 22 years in the woods and this is how I would file a cutter.
John

 

[oldsaw]

Kind of funny, I went down to my local farm supply/Husky dealer and saw they had a ton of square files. I don't know who did the buy in, but we are a long ways from "tree country", and I imagine they will have the same dozens of files they have now in a few years.

I learned to file from my Dad. He told me that I was better at it than he was, so I sharpened nearly all of them, all the time. In later years I figured out that it may, or may not be true.

Mark

 

[musher]

I learned to file from my Dad. He told me that I was better at it than he was, so I sharpened nearly all of them, all the time. In later years I figured out that it may, or may not be true.

Sounds like he found a good way to get some free chain sharpening!

 

[buck futter]

the correct term is he huck finned you right into white washing the fence.

Lucky

 

[Gark]

This unit -Oregon for $30- helps me keep the angles right. It COULD be used in the field but takes more setup time than free-handed filing. So, I take 4 sharp chains along and freehand file a chain twice at most. Each freehand 'tickle' is two strokes of file per cutter every tankful, on average. I just CANNOT command my hands to hold the freehand filing quite exactly right, so if a chain is filed many times without the jig, it gets angle-wronged.
This Oregon file jig (attached pic) can be adjusted for the 90 degree and (30 or 25 degree top plate) angles and must be monitored often for the correct depth (side plate angle). And it can be mounted with a flat file to adjust the rakers to .025 or whatever. When cutting dirty wood, I've used this gizmo in the woods, after freehanding loops twice, to get the angles back true and the chains cutting fine again. It corrects my inability to freehand file at the correct angles.

 

[pinus]

The best position for the saw is vertical if you are hand filing.
I am a lot like you, I can't get a decent edge with a file. Angles change badly, etc. If it only takes a few strokes then fine. Otherwise I just swap on another chain and keep going.

The Oregon 511 makes everything wunnerful again.

My $0.02 worth.
-pat

Great!
Thats the best way, IMO too. I file all my chains without any guide, at the bar tip, saw in vertical position

 

[pinus]

Here's a dual purpose cutter as well. Racing on Saturday and working on Monday.
John

How well the sprocket drives reversed chain:bang:

 

[rjh245]

When I first started cutting I never tried to sharpen the chains at all. I would just take 6 chains with me. I was paying 5 bucks to have a chain sharpened. After I had spent about 100 dollars having chains shaprened i new there had to be a better way. I bought a Oregon sure sharp. It worked ok but you had to have a car battery to use it and you still were taking the rakers down by hand. I started filing free handed and i could touch up a chain ok. But there were a chains i damaged and i took the, to the dealer to have ground back to factory condition. After a while I did not even need to take the chains off. I know only take one extra chain with me and if i am lucky i can leave the chain on the saw and i never need to bother taking it off.
I still have the sure sharp and if I hit a rock I use it to put the edge back on a cutter. It is a lot faster then using the file.

 

[CT Woodburner]

Thanks for the Info on Sharpening

OK, it's been about 1.5 months since my orig. inquiry on chain sharpening; many thanks to those who took the time to respond.
I learned some new things (what the h-ll is a "race chain"?) and got some good leads and pictures on how to proceed with my sharpening activities. I think I will go with the Pfrd unit from Bailey's as it received some good ratings and only costs about $15.
It was interesting to see the depth of knowledge this site brings to the table regarding general chainsaw topics. You all know your stuff! My learning continues.
Again, thanks for the info, and I will certainly be back with more "newbie" questions in the future!

CT Woodburner