I think folks underestimate how important good vision is to welding. I went a couple years without welding at the same time presbyopia was setting in. When I started up again I couldn't understand why I was doing so poorly 'til I realized it was because I couldn't see the puddle like I once could. Put cheaters in the helmet and I was good to go. Nowadays if I'm doing fine TIG, where you want your nose in the weld, it's both reading glasses and cheaters.
Sharpening, necessary or just picky?
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I've also found out that no matter what type of tools you use to sharpen a chainsaw chain if it does not cut properly, DO NOT JUST GO BACK and do the same sharpening procedure again, because you are doing something WRONG.
Remember the old saying, doing the same thing over and over expecting different results.
Remember the old saying, doing the same thing over and over expecting different results.
Thank for this thread. I just realized that I have been sharpening my chains backwards ever since switching to hand filing a couple years ago. Luckily they still cut good the way I was doing it but it was a ***** to get the file through the tooth backwards. FML
Cutters don’t need to all be the same length to cut straight IF each cutter’s own raker is set with a progressive gauge, although you will get better performance if they are all very similar in length. If you use a standard depth gauge tool that rests on two or more teeth (which is essentially what you’re doing with a straight edge and feeler gauge), you are setting that cutter’s raker to an average of two or three different cutters that it’s resting on.
C shaped cutters (more hook) are more aggressive than ( shaped cutters. Add to that, cutters are angled downhill and get shorter in height as you file them. So even if you keep filing with the same cutter profile, eventually the chain will cut less aggressively. Or a couple swipes with the file being held a little bit higher will make your chain less aggressive as well
C shaped cutters (more hook) are more aggressive than ( shaped cutters. Add to that, cutters are angled downhill and get shorter in height as you file them. So even if you keep filing with the same cutter profile, eventually the chain will cut less aggressively. Or a couple swipes with the file being held a little bit higher will make your chain less aggressive as well
Bet that file did a lot of kickback. (kinda like trying to lead a mule while looking him in the eye)
WI_Hedgehog
You bought a WHAT???!!
"Grabby" is not only due to a depth gauge (raker) being too low, it can also be your round file is too low and the angle of the cutting edge on the tooth is too small (too sharp). About 1/5 of the file should be above the tooth. You can often fix a link that's grabby by raising the file 1/3 above the tooth and taking one full low-pressure swipe, which changes the cutting angle and makes the link "more mild."
0.025" below the cutter is the standard depth gauge (raker) distance on new chain, except for really big-toothed chains on big powerheads where 0.030" is OEM. As the cutting tooth gets shorter the distance (gauge/raker depth) increases as to maintain the cutter angle, which also allows different length teeth on the same chain to cut consistently. I'll note it's called a "depth gauge" because it determines (gauges) the depth of cut the individual cutter behind it takes.
On chain meant to have 0.025" depth gauge (raker) depth,
0.030" "cuts noticeably faster," and puts "a little" more stress on the powerhead.
0.035" is the limit and will be grabby in certain wood, and can be tough on clutches and powerheads, depending on what you're cutting. DO NOT use for small stuff like brush cutting, it'll snag.
Variance: +/-0.002" on depth gauges (rakers) is what I shoot for to balance keeping chain vibration minimal with not spending all day sharpening a chain, and it's "pretty easy" to hit.
Note on recent Oregon chain: On some links the hardening is non-uniform, usually too hard and occasionally really soft (like they missed hardening it). If I had to guess I'd say it's probably due to an inconsistent steel mix (a common cost-cutting measure). Oregon (brand) recently switched to Chinese-grade steel from what I hear, which is lower-grade (softer and less consistent) than AISI or ASTM spec. Note the chain is typically "pretty affordable" so I'm not knocking the brand. Anyway, on "affordable" chain you should be able to feel an unusually hard or soft link when hand filing and adjust how you're filing accordingly, IF you're paying attention (not zoning out on YouTube or smoking Mary Jane).
Regarding variance, if I set a 0.025" chain for 0.030" and am off by +/-0.002" that's almost the difference between the stock depth of 0.025" and the "fast cutting speed" of 0.030" given the depth gauges vary from:
0.030 +0.002 = 0.032"
0.030 -0.002 = 0.028"
0.032" - 0.028" = 0.004" variance, maybe 0.005" since the digital depth mic I use for chains only measures within 0.0005" (which is quite sufficient for measuring depth gauges as the surface finish and especially filing flatness won't be accurate to within one-half a thousandth of an inch).
For reference, the average human hair is about 0.005", ranging from a naturally fat curly-hair at 0.009" to thin straight skinny flyaway hair at 0.002". (Note there are a lot of opinions on the thickness of human hair, most pure speculation without any evidence to back it up, and quite frankly some people aren't that smart when it comes to measuring stuff, even in the scientific community--if them thair "smart people" were that smart the "no-spill gas can" wouldn't exist.)
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Oil and sharpening threads, NEVER A "DULL" MOMENT.
in days past, these days don't need much muffler shop work. ... before i would go in to counter... parked and took a look at the welder. if he was welding with no glasses or sun glasses... i left! went to where the guy had good vision, or at least had not burned it....
definitely worth getting it down right! years back, i went into small engine/saw shop... asked about a chain file. 'oh, just buy a new one!' one thing for sure... a few kisses across the cutting tooth and the saw sure works a lot nicer... and makes chips not dust...
recently, i sharpened chain on one of my saws... and quickly took a 'b4' pix to mark the event. posted it and got a few encouraging comments!
lol! like selecting a cam for an engine... suggested specs = to number of engine builders asked!!!
the used motor oil for bar lube went a notch higher this morning... one poster uses it to paint fences....
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or kill weeds, greenies love that. They don't realize how much oil is put on the ground when they pave a road with asphalt. You right about cams, a million different grinds and there all "the best" and there is an expert for each one made.
sometimes, stock will do just fine! (cam)
https://www.motortrend.com/news/202...z2&utm_source=braze&utm_medium=emaileditorial
I can tell you it sure wasnt an enjoyable experience and made me question my decision to stop paying someone else to do it for me. I had 3 chains left for my 440 and did them going the right direction last night. It went much better. I guess we all have that dumb ass moment sooner or later.
Question, while we have several experts chiming in. Do you need to check each and every raker as you sharpen? I always free style hand file. When I check the rakers, I will just eyeball 4 or 5 with a straight edge, then hit them all with the same amount of filling all the way around. Has always worked well for me.
From what I gather you treat them individually as they're only controlling its own cutters depth.
Cams and whatnot aside I got all my answers and then some. I'm very grateful for this community and your guys help
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They go home at night and think their eyes hurt because they worked to hard. I did it accidentally welding aluminum, didn't have the shade adjusted right after buying a new auto helmet. Cold potato slices on my eyelids for awhile. Learned a sight saving lesson fast.in days past, these days don't need much muffler shop work. ... before i would go in to counter... parked and took a look at the welder. if he was welding with no glasses or sun glasses... i left! went to where the guy had good vision, or at least had not burned it....
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fried retina on the blue light special
THIS!!!! When you're doing your depth gauges (aka drag links/rakers), use a gauge to check after every stroke. It won't take long before you develop a feel for how many strokes to take. Most gages are made so that you can put them on the link, and then file it flush. Personally, I hate doing that. It seems like the gage is always either in my way, or falling off. On that note, once you develop a feel for how many strokes to take, and how much pressure to use, you'll do one entire side of the chain and then go back and check it.
If you're running a smaller saw, it's better to err on the side of caution with your depth gages. A 50cc saw will pull an 18" bar with the depth gages at 0.020" just fine. It won't pull into the wood as much, and might feel a little slow, but it will still cut fine. If you go the other direction and have them at 0.030" you might find that the saw is a real pain in the rear to run. It will run okay with the bar buried, but when the bar is only into 6" to 8" of wood (and under) it might seem like it wants to grab as soon as the first tooth makes contact. If that happens to you, find a 7 tooth drive rim and run that until the chain has been sharpened enough to resolve the issue.
Conversely, if you're running the same bar and chain on a 60cc or 70cc saw, you can drop those depth gages to 0.035"-0.040" and the saw will still pull it regardless. The saw will pull HARD into the wood, throw big chips, and cut FAST. The problem here can be cutting little stuff (limbing). The chain can be so grabby that it's easy for the saw to throw the chain on little stuff. I run my 036 saws this way with 18" bars. I use them mainly for bucking firewood, and its a great setup. I use an 024 or 026 with the same bar and chain for limbing, but I set everything to the mfg recommendations.
Hand filed today. Doubt it was ever on my grinder. Nothing is even and it cuts straight.
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