Sharpening Stihl RS

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Because if you've worn it bad enough that the incorrect chain fits your bar there's a good chance (like 100%) that the interior walls that give it it's gauge are no longer parallel.
 
What's wrong with putting a .058 gauge chain into a well worn .050 bar?

You mean like if it fits well, no slop or the grove is not to bell-mouthed?

Nothing.

A well worn .050 is a .058 grove, it's rare that they will get that bad and not get bell-mouthed and need just closing.

But what is ever rarer is how people that have not seen the bar or how it cuts can say it's wrong.

Here is a rule..

Never argue with success!
 
A well worn .050 is a .058 grove, it's rare that they will get that bad and not get bell-mouthed and need just closing.

But what is ever rarer is how people that have not seen the bar or how it cuts can say it's wrong.

Here is a rule..

Never argue with success!

I agree , if the bar has worn perfectly up in size it should be fine to use.

Don't know how the surface heat treat properties are if you eroded that much metal but if it work for him then ... good deal.
 
That is probably the best advice considering the single answer I received to my one and only question turned out to be wrong.


The chart on this page should give you a good reference to proper files and part #s depending on your chain.

http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/acc_grindfiles.html


I like this little kit for hand filing both out in the woods and when the day is done. I round file my full chisel chain since it's easier than mastering a goofy file for now to achieve a square filed cutter, and holds an edge a bit better with some dirty wood. The common filing angles are marked right on the guide so as long as you keep the scribed lines parallel with your bar, you're good to go.

"Complete Filing Kits
Includes file guide, depth gauge, round file, flat file and two file handles in tool pouch."
filingkits.gif



For 3/8ths chain Although I've also heard its best to file with the 13/64ths for the first half of the cutter and then change to a 7/32nds as you wear through the chain since the dynamics of the tooth change a bit. (I hope I don't have that backwards but someone will correct me if I do) **edit** Yep, got it backwards :laugh:
 
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The chart on this page should give you a good reference to proper files and part #s depending on your chain.

http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/acc_grindfiles.html


I like this little kit for hand filing both out in the woods and when the day is done. I round file my full chisel chain since it's easier than mastering a goofy file for now to achieve a square filed cutter, and holds an edge a bit better with some dirty wood. The common filing angles are marked right on the guide so as long as you keep the scribed lines parallel with your bar, you're good to go.

"Complete Filing Kits
Includes file guide, depth gauge, round file, flat file and two file handles in tool pouch."
filingkits.gif



Although I've also heard its best to file with the 13/64ths for the first half of the cutter and then change to a 7/32nds as you wear through the chain since the dynamics of the tooth change a bit. (I hope I don't have that backwards but someone will correct me if I do)

Good post, but 7/32th is 14/64th , bigger then 13/64th , you want the bigger file with the bigger cutter, first, the cutter gets smaller further back you go needing a smaller file. (this is for a 3/8th chain) I would just stick with a 13/64th .

:cheers:
 
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Good post, but 7/32th is 14/64th , bigger then 13/64th , you want the bigger file with the bigger cutter, first, the cutter gets smaller further back you go needing a smaller file. (this is for a 3/8th chain) I would just stick with a 13/64th .

:cheers:


Thanks, I kinda thought it seemed weird as I was typing it, but didn't want to go out into the garage to figure out which way I had things set up :laugh:
 
The chart on this page should give you a good reference to proper files and part #s depending on your chain.

http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/acc_grindfiles.html


Although I've also heard its best to file with the 13/64ths for the first half of the cutter and then change to a 7/32nds as you wear through the chain since the dynamics of the tooth change a bit. (I hope I don't have that backwards but someone will correct me if I do)

Yeah, you got it backwards. Use the larger 7/32" on the front half of the cutters and switch to 13/64" on the back since the cutters taper towards the rear.

I seem to recall that Stihl recommends 13/64" for 3/8" chain and 7/32" for .404, but I'm sure that they don't want to confuse anyone.

I wonder how much dirt and grit you would have to run a bar through to make a .058" chain run in a .050" bar? Mebbe a lil used motor oil would help?:monkey:
 
What do you mean when you say worn bar and "oversize" chain? Are the bar rails worn to the point where an .050 bar groove will accept an .058 chain? If thats the case you need to close the bar rails or get a new bar ASAP. Any dealer who puts the wrong chain on a worn bar to "make it work" is an idiot.

What is the difference in what his dealer has done and your first suggestion of closing the rails ? If there is only so much metal left, how is closing the rails going to be better than going to the next gauge ? Either way the drivelinks are now tighter in the rail.
 
I like this little kit for hand filing both out in the woods and when the day is done. I round file my full chisel chain since it's easier than mastering a goofy file for now to achieve a square filed cutter, and holds an edge a bit better with some dirty wood. The common filing angles are marked right on the guide so as long as you keep the scribed lines parallel with your bar, you're good to go.

"Complete Filing Kits
Includes file guide, depth gauge, round file, flat file and two file handles in tool pouch."

Thanks Nuzzy. I found that kit the other day on the Stihl website. I hope to pick one up this week when I go to town.
 
But what is ever rarer is how people that have not seen the bar or how it cuts can say it's wrong.

Here is a rule..

Never argue with success!

Exactly. I'm very happy with the way my saw cuts with the new RS chain I've been running. Fast, smooth and dead straight.
 
bent a raker over 90deg. what to do? grabbed channell locks bent it back up

Good to know ! The chain that came on my brand new saw has all the rakers bent 90 deg. I'm headed to the shop now to straighten them all out.

( LOL, Just kidding. It's an Oregon 72V that's made that way. Not sure why.)
 
Thanks Nuzzy. I found that kit the other day on the Stihl website. I hope to pick one up this week when I go to town.


It's done good for me. I see a lot of clamp on guides and bench mount this and that, but for ease and simplicity it works just fine and is easy to take out where you need it. :cool:
 
Good to know ! The chain that came on my brand new saw has all the rakers bent 90 deg. I'm headed to the shop now to straighten them all out.

( LOL, Just kidding. It's an Oregon 72V that's made that way. Not sure why.)

:censored: Vanguard chain will make lots of small chips and dust!
 

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