Sharpening

[Philbert]

I'm just getting my new Super Jolly up and running and practicing on a junk Sthil RS33 chain.

Check out this thread for more tips on using your new grinder, which is very similar:
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/511a-grinder-improvements-tweaks.197073/

I ground it with a 10 degree down angle but was not coming out with the same profile as my new RS33 chain that just came out of the box. So I setup the grinder to a 0 degree down angle. . . .
Would it be fair to say that the new chain does not come from the factory with a down angle ground into it?

STIHL does not recommend the 10° 'down angle' for their chains in their sharpening instructions, so what you found makes sense.

Whether it is worth doing is another conversation: Oregon reps have told me that it absolutely makes a difference with several of their chains, when measured in a test fixture, under controlled conditions. I have not personally noticed enough of a difference in my cutting to make the extra steps (tilting the vise) worthwhile, so i don't do it. *I also use a file to touch up cutters in the field (as do many of the people that I sharpen chains for), and the instructions for many file holders specify only using a 0° angle ( or 90°‚ to the guide bar), so I try to 'grind as I file and file as i grind'.* Going back-and-forth between 0° and 10° takes additional time and wastes a lot of cutter life.

One advantage of sharpening your own chain is that you can do what you want, or what works best for you. Grind at 27-1/2°! Use a 6° 'down angle'! Set your depth gauges at 0.027", if you want! Consider those specs given to you by the manufacturers as 'starting points', and work from there. If there is a hand-filed chain that really cuts the way that you like, place it in your grinder (with the motor 'OFF") and try to work backwards to 'copy' those angles.

Also keep in mind that there can be differences between different brands of chains, different saws, different wood, different types of cutting, etc. Experiment, figure out what works for you, and have fun with it.

Philbert

 

[Krazo]

I just mounted the 8MM Grinding Disk on the Supper Jolly to experiment with grinding depth gauges and noticed some pretty good run out maybe about 1/16 of an inch on its outer edge. I came across a thread that talked about grinding disks not running true and possibly trying to dress the disk to true it up. What kind of run out is acceptable for a new undressed disk that's 8mm in thickness?

Well I attempted to dress the disk but began to think that maybe that's just way too much material to take off to get it trued up, the disk is probably defective. The Grinder does vibrate and pulse pretty good when it comes up to speed

So the interesting thing is that before I got the Super Jolly I purchased an Oregon 410. It came with Tecomec Grinding Disks. When I mounted the first disk it wobbled like crazy with pretty good vibration when up to speed. I mounted the remaining 2 disks that came with the 410 with the same result. I sent the unit back thinking the arbor was bent. The company I got it from told me I mounted the disks incorrectly, the 410 did not have any issues with a bent arbor. The disks were mounted correctly their is no doubt in my mind!

So am I just being a ninny here and need to learn that some disks just don't run true? Am I just getting the luck of the draw with a bad run of Tecomec Disks? The other 2 Tecomec Disks that came with the new Supper Jolly run true.

Is Tecomec known to have quality control problems with their disks?

I've studied up a little bit on the different types of grinding disks and their properties here in the forums. The question being is that if Tecomec Disks are not the greatest what would be a good (not cheap not too expensive) disk for a novice like me to purchase until I get some experience under my belt to make ant intelligent choice on grinding disks.

Thanks in advance to anyone who may have some thoughts

 

[Philbert]

I assume that you mean 'grinding wheel', and are not getting creative, by mounting other types of abrasive discs on your grinder; correct?

Tecomec wheels are generally high quality in my experience. Do they seat tightly on the arbor? Any bumps on the mounting flanges? Are there paper discs ('blotters') on both sides?

The biggest problem I have had with grinding wheels were some cheap ones, where the 7/8" ID was a metric 'equivalent', that was not close enough, and the wheels wobbled dangerously out of round. Try flipping the wheel over, or rotating it slightly on the arbor before tightening the holding flange and nut - see if that makes a difference. Otherwise, could be defective.

Philbert

 

[Krazo]

I assume that you mean 'grinding wheel', and are not getting creative, by mounting other types of abrasive discs on your grinder; correct?

Tecomec wheels are generally high quality in my experience. Do they seat tightly on the arbor? Any bumps on the mounting flanges? Are there paper discs ('blotters') on both sides?

The biggest problem I have had with grinding wheels were some cheap ones, where the 7/8" ID was a metric 'equivalent', that was not close enough, and the wheels wobbled dangerously out of round. Try flipping the wheel over, or rotating it slightly on the arbor before tightening the holding flange and nut - see if that makes a difference. Otherwise, could be defective.

Philbert

Correct I installed the Grinding Wheels that came straight from the box that shipped with the grinder. Sorry not too much creativity here I'm afraid.

Mounting flanges seemed OK but I will do a through check tomorrow.

Seems like the Wheel could fit a little tighter on the arbor but then again if it was too tight one could risk cracking the wheel when you put it on. On the Oregon 410 grinder I sent back I put a thin piece of plastic over the arbor to take up the slack between it and the Wheel but still had run out on the wheels that came with it.
I'll do some measuring on the ID of the Wheel and OD of the Arbor.

Yes blotters on both sides of the wheel.

I will try to flip the wheel over.

I will try rotating the wheel while tightening the flange and nut.

Thanks for you insight Philbert I really appreciate it!

I'll contact the distributor as well. They may have some thoughts.

Krazo

 

[chipper1]

Have you been physically assaulted by a grinder, as soon as someone mentions one you seem to get very excited....

I am just joking with you ted, and I do totally understand we're you are coming from, you are not the only one that had to grow up and hand file a chain...

Any time some one says something about a grinder, you instantly assume that they can't file or do not even want to try....this is WRONG...a lot of guys that have grinders still file, I know I do, hell I actually like to hand file,(if it's my own chains lol)...

Believe it or not you DO NOT have to pick one or the other, YOU CAN use both....I know sounds absolutely outrageous, I do it all the time!!!

Let's be honest hand filing is NOT VODOO here people, it's simply chainsaw maintance....

I pick both myself.

Just because you 'filed' it, does not mean that you 'sharpened' it!

Philbert

And just because I've sharpened it doesn't mean I filed it .
I like my grinders, but I probably have a few more files than grinders lol.

 

[Philbert]

And just because I've sharpened it doesn't mean I filed it .

Nice assortment!

Philbert

 

[chipper1]

Nice assortment!

Philbert

You never know what you're going to need lol.
I recently sold the orange tecomec 137 on the left, it was dedicated to safety chain rakers as the silvey raker grinder grinds the rakers when the chain it on a radius which misses the safety humps. On my chains I just cut those big ole shark fins right off. Just finished up a 325 semi chisel with the anti vibe humps on it, hand filed it, cleaned the gullet deep and very mild side plate angle/hook since it's for a buddy who has very little cutting experience.
I haven't used a grinder in a couple weeks, but I have a couple damaged chains(rock, metal, lots of dirt) and I'll be using the stihl on them.
I enjoy trying them all and seeing what I like, if you buy at the right price it's not to difficult to get your money back out of equipment.