simple trick for junior climbers, re: accurate back-cuts

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String?

How about a chalk line? Hook in one side of the face and wrap around. Snap line in a couple places and then wrap it back up.

Keep cuttin that string untill it gets wrapped around your drive sprocket and you will probably figure out a better way. In the tree, after making the face cut (if I make it on the side of the tree that I am on and I want to be on the back-cut side when making the back-cut) I just reach around the right side with the saw (both hands on the saw) and line up/level up the bar with the face and rev saw to make a small mark on exact opposite side with top of the bar. Keep in mind that cutting with the top of the bar will force saw away from the tree so keep both hands on saw and make sure nose is not close as it will try and spin the tip right around into your face. Just a small rev and touch bark to make a mark is all. Then you go ahead and rig the piece (bull rope across face and up through half hitch into running bowline) and when you set up on back side, you have a reference point to start back cut. For a quick check, I will reach around both sides and place middle fingers in apex of face cut just to verify direction and levelness?

Probably to much info? I might use the chalk line idea on a really big tree on the ground if very critical felling cut, but never in the tree. That string thing is gonna bite ya eventually.
 
We have to clear something up, something you should know cause you might be confusing other as well as me.
I, am THE Dan.
There are others who responded named Dan
I am not one of those people named Dan

I am here to help, whelp.

At any rate, The Dan , yes,was jealous. I hope Plas brings the tampon rope if he can make it out thursday, by the end of the day I hope to rid him of it. Great for Demonstration though.

Oops. My bad THE DAN.

Whelp? Is that the sound u make when you get spanked THE DAN? :jester:
 
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In the tree, after making the face cut (if I make it on the side of the tree that I am on and I want to be on the back-cut side when making the back-cut) I just reach around the right side with the saw (both hands on the saw) and line up/level up the bar with the face and rev saw to make a small mark on exact opposite side with top of the bar. Keep in mind that cutting with the top of the bar will force saw away from the tree so keep both hands on saw and make sure nose is not close as it will try and spin the tip right around into your face. Just a small rev and touch bark to make a mark is all.

I often mark a large cut especially when it is bigger than the length of the bar. 20 some years ago when I was learning my trade the motto was "measure twice and cut once". That is just as true today in any trade.

If I had the chance to work with someone like THE DAN, I would take it Plasmech. Hands on training is the best kind.
 
Yep Dan's got a big head, but he (and others) has a point.

If you have to wrap a string around the log at the apex of your scarf, notch, facecut, pie...Sounds like a good idea in concept but problematic in application.

Try this Make a horizontal curf at the apex of your scarf, and run it back around the log.

Gaff around to the other side and do the same thing, now you know where to cut, and you do not have a big ball of masonry twine to get all tangled up.

I hope I have actually helped, instead of bloviating about how good I am and how naive you appear to be.
 
Yep Dan's got a big head, but he (and others) has a point.

If you have to wrap a string around the log at the apex of your scarf, notch, facecut, pie...Sounds like a good idea in concept but problematic in application.

Try this Make a horizontal curf at the apex of your scarf, and run it back around the log.

Gaff around to the other side and do the same thing, now you know where to cut, and you do not have a big ball of masonry twine to get all tangled up.

I hope I have actually helped, instead of bloviating about how good I am and how naive you appear to be.

Guys,
How about snapping a chalk line ? , just sounds reasonable if the objective is to "see around' the tree.
 
You're not a carpenter, are you?

Chalk lines only work well against flat surfaces when stretched between two points. If you try to follow a curve along the bark of the tree it will only make a mark where you happen to have aligned it while spurring around the log. It will not have any more tendency to establish a straight line than the original plan, and once stretched tight around a curve, you can't pop it to get the chalk line.

BTW, if you will be able to make sure that your string line is lined up with the corners, you should be able to make marker cuts in the bark to do the same thing.
 
I like the idea of just chalk itself. Reach around the tree and continue the line around back. I agree that the string could become sprocket fodder and is probably not a good idea.

I could just put my lanyard right in the Vee and go to town huh? That sounds brilliant! :monkey:
 
Yep Dan's got a big head, but he (and others) has a point.

If you have to wrap a string around the log at the apex of your scarf, notch, facecut, pie...Sounds like a good idea in concept but problematic in application.

Try this Make a horizontal curf at the apex of your scarf, and run it back around the log.

Gaff around to the other side and do the same thing, now you know where to cut, and you do not have a big ball of masonry twine to get all tangled up.

I hope I have actually helped, instead of bloviating about how good I am and how naive you appear to be.

Wait, Dan who? I have no idea what bloviating means nor care to find out.
Oh, its just fun:)
 
Wait, Dan who? I have no idea what bloviating means nor care to find out.
Oh, its just fun:)

Hey Dan (TM),

What's up with all these prima donnas warning me about you being stoned? I ain't drivin' all the way up there for no clam bake bro!

(LOL j/k it's all cool)
 
Hey Dan (TM),

What's up with all these prima donnas warning me about you being stoned? I ain't drivin' all the way up there for no clam bake bro!

(LOL j/k it's all cool)

He said "clam".

You should check out the thread in this forum labled " The Plas Pine". How much do you wiegh?
Yup, your right, you ain't driving up here for that. You can climb that tree right?
 
You gotta be kidding right?

Man I bet you have all the little gadgets they sell. I'm all about having the right tools for the job but you can take it over board.
Make your notch and grab a smaller saw and make a line around the tree. If you can't do that maybe you should cut grass for a living.
 
Man I bet you have all the little gadgets they sell. I'm all about having the right tools for the job but you can take it over board.
Make your notch and grab a smaller saw and make a line around the tree. If you can't do that maybe you should cut grass for a living.

In your FIRST post you bash a forum member?
 
Thanks fellas

I'm not going to always be an ass. I guess I was just in a mood.
Yeah I signed up for this site a couple weeks ago and just now am looking into it. I see this could be fun.
I like to discuss #### with people who know what I'm talking about.
I live and breath tree work. I'll be around.
 
So, if the twine thing is a bad idea.

How about moving the ladder around to the other side of the tree to see where the notch is? :popcorn:

And the answer is no, I am not serious, just a bad sense of humor. :jester:
 
No comment on some stuff

I don't teach saw work anymore.

But it occurs to me that this idea might actually be better to teach someone falling on the ground.

A total newbee who is having trouble with height and levelness of cut.

===========

Rather than just complain, maybe I could have given them an aid on the first few trees to get them started.

Too late now to try it out.
 
i like to stand on the side of the tree and make my cuts. after im all lined up if i need to be on the back side i go before i finish my back cut. its very important to go to your work , than get a good sturdy work position before you start cutting. the only way you will ever get good @ saw control is ta go to the work, get your position so you are able to use both hands on the saw and make sure you can see what your cutting.. you want to avoid reaching or bending in any funky ways, whether it be your arms or your neck.
 
i have met a crap load of ignorant climbers that just dont like to teach others. i look at it like people showed me and im sharing the knowledge. im glade you stuck around plasmech. when i was first wanting to learn i asked twice as many ?'s as plasmech. one thing i find a lil strange is i think plasmech is much older than me:dizzy: how old r u man?
 
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