Small axe for wedge driving

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Not sure what these retail for but here's the above mentioned stihl on ebay:

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http://cgi.ebay.com/STIHL-chainsaw-...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3ca6fb2b70

Scott
 
I don't think the smaller Fiskars ones are suited for hammer/sledge use, only the #2400/Super splitter.

Yep, I have personally seen that exact model get broken driving a wedge. It was a splitting wedge, but now it doesn't have a handle. I guess a plastic wedge would be more forgiving, but it break quite easily.

Brad if this is strictly for driving wedges, go to the hardware store and buy a 3.5 axe with a wooden handle (cheaper the better) and cut the handle off to make it more comfortable to carry and swing. A hatchet is nice, but not so great for driving wedges. Most 3.5# axes have a 28-32" handle, cut that back to 20-24" and you have a solid wedge axe. A 2.5# axe head might be better but they aren't as easy to find.

You are over thinking this. :)
 
Brad if this is strictly for driving wedges, go to the hardware store and buy a 3.5 axe with a wooden handle (cheaper the better) and cut the handle off to make it more comfortable to carry and swing. A hatchet is nice, but not so great for driving wedges. Most 3.5# axes have a 28-32" handle, cut that back to 20-24" and you have a solid wedge axe. A 2.5# axe head might be better but they aren't as easy to find.

You are over thinking this. :)

That's the fun part:) I just priced the PA 20 and it lists for $57.44. My cost is $49.95. That's mighty pricey for an axe. I suppose you're right PB, lol.
 
if this is strictly for driving wedges, go to the hardware store and buy a 3.5 axe with a wooden handle (cheaper the better) and cut the handle off to make it more comfortable to carry and swing. A hatchet is nice, but not so great for driving wedges. Most 3.5# axes have a 28-32" handle, cut that back to 20-24" and you have a solid wedge axe. A 2.5# axe head might be better but they aren't as easy to find.

You are over thinking this. :)

You have to love it when the cheap way is every bit as good as the expensive way. Rep coming your way, PB. :clap::clap:

Don't forget garage/rummage sales. There's many a $5 ax with lots of life left in it been bought and sold in folks' yards.
 
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Yep, I have personally seen that exact model get broken driving a wedge. It was a splitting wedge, but now it doesn't have a handle. I guess a plastic wedge would be more forgiving, but it break quite easily.

Brad if this is strictly for driving wedges, go to the hardware store and buy a 3.5 axe with a wooden handle (cheaper the better) and cut the handle off to make it more comfortable to carry and swing. A hatchet is nice, but not so great for driving wedges. Most 3.5# axes have a 28-32" handle, cut that back to 20-24" and you have a solid wedge axe. A 2.5# axe head might be better but they aren't as easy to find.

You are over thinking this. :)

Ace Hardware $12.75 Collins Boy's Axe 28"
I'll stop by tonight and confirm (maybe buy).
72822_120808l_saif.jpg
 
What do you do when your trees are half a mile from the truck. For firewood cutting close to the truck I think your system would work fine.

I'm never more than a couple hundred feet from whatever vehicle brought me into the woods. The bucket works fine. If I was half a mile in, I'd be using a pack of some sort, but firewood cutting's all I do and I wouldn't be cutting trees down if I were half a mile into the woods anyway.
 
Ace Hardware $12.75 Collins Boy's Axe 28"
I'll stop by tonight and confirm (maybe buy).
72822_120808l_saif.jpg

The price was actually $19.49 - bought it any way.

The helve appeared to be tight grain hickory
It can be cut to 20" and be straight enough.
The head is 6" long
The bit is 3-3/4"
The poll is 1"x2-3/8"

Liked the look of that "kenowa" better - the "bosstoolsupply" version is discontinued

So, the Collins will do - after all, only beating plastic wedges any way.
 
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Just my opinion, but if you're going to "drive" wedges use an axe. I carry a 3 1/2 pound axe with the 36" handle cut down to about 26" when the trees are small, but a lot of times wish I had carried the 5 pound axe. You're not going to "drive" a wedge with most of the little peckers I've seen here. You'll use a lot less energy using a real axe than a hatchet, including packing it around. As for carrying a longer handle, you can use a loop on your belt and let it hang by your legs, or get an aluminum sheath that will put the handle up your back (my preference).
That bucket thing wouldn't work for me, sounds pretty inefficient. I guess it would be ok for gathering firewood on the weekends, but still not very efficient.
Of course I'm one of those guy's that carry an axe, a tape, a wedge pouch with 4 wedges, extra gas & oil, a canteen, a bar wrench, keel (lumber crayon), and some first aid crap on his belt all the time. So take it for what it's worth.

Andy
 
If you are going to tap wedges, those hatchets will be fine. If you are going to drive wedges, you need a working axe. Those hatchets are worthless if you need to wedge a back-leaner, or free a pinched saw.


.

+1. Many times you need a longer handle and more mass applied to drive in a wedge. I got my saw pinched last week and was glad to have a long-handled sledge available. I hatchet on the side with something more substantial in the truck would be ideal.
 
If you are going to tap wedges, those hatchets will be fine. If you are going to drive wedges, you need a working axe. Those hatchets are worthless if you need to wedge a back-leaner, or free a pinched saw.


.

+1. Many times you need a longer handle and more mass applied to drive in a wedge. I got my saw pinched last week and was glad to have a long-handled sledge available. I hatchet on the side with something more substantial in the truck would be ideal.

Keeping a big axe in the truck for heavy work is always a good idea. But, if a saw gets seriously pinched and can't be wedged out, 2dogs gave me some advice I now use.

I've always kept a spare chain handy (truck or atv) but recently added a spare bar, too. If a pinched saw needs to be 'cut' out - unbolt the pinched bar/chain - bolt on the spares = free the pinched bar easier, faster and safer than chopping it out.
 
Keeping a big axe in the truck for heavy work is always a good idea. But, if a saw gets seriously pinched and can't be wedged out, 2dogs gave me some advice I now use.

I've always kept a spare chain handy (truck or atv) but recently added a spare bar, too. If a pinched saw needs to be 'cut' out - unbolt the pinched bar/chain - bolt on the spares = free the pinched bar easier, faster and safer than chopping it out.




That only works with an inboard clutch.




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