What Axe do you recommend for splitting some oak ?

[telecasterfool]

I have 2 Council axes- handles excellent on both. Its mighty easy to overstrike and break a handle no matter how good it is or who makes it. Maybe the plastic/fiberglass handles are harder to break, but I've no interest in swinging one of them- I'll do the work on getting an accurate swing.

I have four different Council axes. I have no issues with the quality of the handles. I had one that loosened almost immediately, and I re-set it with an additional conical wedge. Wooden handles can be broken, that's just the way wooden handles are. I don't think people understand that anymore, maybe because handles like the Fiskars exist. Wooden handles can be improved for splitting, a little. I've found that wrapping paracord around the handle from the bottom of the head down about 3" and then treating the paracord with varnish (I use Watco) creates a great barrier to scuffs and chips. This is not an overstrike protector. If you seriously overstrike a big axe on a hardwood, you'll probably break the handle.

To the original poster: After you get some time on the Fiskars stuff, you may want to try a wood handles splitting axe, just to see if you want to evolve in that direction. Wooden handles feel better to a lot of people, and you can create an entire tool the way you like. I'm not advocating either style of tool. I own, use, and enjoy both. Good luck!

 

[buzz sawyer]

Unless it's gnarly, Oak should split pretty easily. Fiskars X27 and work from the outside-in. Also, try a single bit axe sometime - you may be surprised.

 

[moxiemaul]

I have four different Council axes. I have no issues with the quality of the handles. I had one that loosened almost immediately, and I re-set it with an additional conical wedge. Wooden handles can be broken, that's just the way wooden handles are. I don't think people understand that anymore, maybe because handles like the Fiskars exist. Wooden handles can be improved for splitting, a little. I've found that wrapping paracord around the handle from the bottom of the head down about 3" and then treating the paracord with varnish (I use Watco) creates a great barrier to scuffs and chips. This is not an overstrike protector. If you seriously overstrike a big axe on a hardwood, you'll probably break the handle.

I've done the same on 2 of my axes and my old sears maul. I've been experimenting a bit using a couple variations of nautical serving and some weaving of the paracord- a pleasant evening in the shop either way. Early on I tried a leather "overstrike" guard from etsy- not much good it tore quickly, small paracord is a lot more robust.

I tend to prefer a larger palm swell than Council uses- Beaver Tooth handles have a somewhat larger swell. My fave is a 28" from Brant Cochran- I got one of their handles for an ancient rusty dayton head my dad found in the field when I was a kid- really like their haft design unfortunately they don't sell longer ones.

A handle that lets you get away with a sloppy strike just isn't a big win IMHO. What happens when you get the axe stuck really well and have to bring in a 2nd tool to hopefully break the round enough to get the 1st one out; its really important to choose where the axe is going to hit.

 

[Mad Professor]

Have some oak rounds to hand split.
What axe do you recommend ?
Probably need a 27-29 inch length handle.

Will be using the wood for campfires.

Thank you

Council Tool. Made in NC USA

Council Tool Axes

 

[Mad Professor]

I have 2 Council axes- handles excellent on both. Its mighty easy to overstrike and break a handle no matter how good it is or who makes it. Maybe the plastic/fiberglass handles are harder to break, but I've no interest in swinging one of them- I'll do the work on getting an accurate swing.

+1 on Council.

I take a MTB tire, slice ~4" then duct tape near the head. Helps when I mis-swing. Axes and mauls.

 

[D Kitchen]

Have some oak rounds to hand split.
What axe do you recommend ?
Probably need a 27-29 inch length handle.

Will be using the wood for campfires.

Thank you

I've had the Fiskars X27 splitting axe for a few years now. I can't recommend it highly enough. I've been splitting firewood for years with everything from a sledge hammer and wedges to mauls and now finally to the Fiskars splitting axe. It's the best. I'm getting older and the maul just wears me out too fast. The splitting axe only weighs about 4 pounds as I recall and the handle is hollow yet strong. This means it's much easier to swing for a long amount of time without getting exhausted. One in a while I might use the maul for a swing or two if I get into a real nasty crotch piece or one with big knots. However 99% of the time I can use the splitting axe with no problems.

 

[SS396driver]

 

[Breckinridge Elkins]

As for the Council Tools, this is one of the reasons I like to see a tool in person or hang my own handle. I like to sort through all the handles they have in stock and pick the grain I like the best. I have been looking to buy a Council Tool maul head but I usually see the round "sledge" eye versions instead of the axe eye that I prefer.
Do all their tools come with unfinished handles? I bought their hookaroon awhile back and the wood was unfinished. I prefer it this way but I was still surprised. I burned the surface a bit with a torch and applied three coats of BLO.

 

[telecasterfool]

Their (council) cheaper axes come with lacquered handles if I'm not mistaken. Their better axes come with a waxed handle.

 

[landfakers]

Can’t go wrong with the X27. I strictly burn red oak and have no issue even cracking large rounds

 

[moxiemaul]

I didn't much care for the Council haft's waxed finish- grabby on the gloves OTOH maybe its a cheap finish to preserve the haft before its put into use. I scrubbed them clean with steel wool and submerged overnight in BLO a few times & they've been great since.

 

[gsrsol84mm]

The X27 is made in Finland and the Iso-Core 8lb is made in Taiwan.
Will give them a test shortly

 

[pdqdl]

X25 came in today. Was very pleased to see that it was made in Finland. Manufacturer date on the box was Feb 6th, 2022. A total of $54.43 delivered.

Weighs in at 5 lbs 2 ounces

I had an x-25, but retired it quickly. I liked how it splits though, and stepped up to the X-27.

I am tall, and it is short. It's pretty easy for that tool to skate off a log and come straight at your feet or shins, particularly if you are fond of putting a log to be split on top of another log as a splitting base. Truly scary. A slightly missed or poorly delivered strike can do you a nasty injury. I've never had that experience with any other splitting tool.

I'd recommend the X-25 only for shorter people, in which case it is still an excellent tool.
Somewhere on this site there is a thread dedicated to that discussion.

 

[HumBurner]

I have used a conventional 8lb maul for 30+ years. The son in law brought over his Fiskars X27 and I have to say I was very impressed. I thought it would behave more like an axe and just stick in the endgrain but that isn't the case at all. It splits well and it's a lot less work to swing.

Yea, they are pretty nice. I've been using one for years. I usually bring the maul (8lb) along, but the x27 does most of the work, unless it's really seasoned wood or knotty.

 

[HumBurner]

I just picked up an inevitable replacement for my x27 the last time I was in town. I've banged wedges with the x27 for years, so fiskars won't replace it when it fails. This is what was available:



No markings/model number anywhere. I searched the numbers on the tag above the barcode, but there's no specific info on this other than "splitting axe"

 

[pdqdl]

I'd recommend the X-25 only for shorter people, in which case it is still an excellent tool.
Somewhere on this site there is a thread dedicated to that discussion.

I cringed. A new X25 took a chunk out of my shin that took 2 months to heal. Those Fiskars are no joke

Like I said, that X-25 can be dangerous.

 

[diver64]

Like I said, that X-25 can be dangerous.

For me of average height, the X25 is a "boys axe". I highly recommend the the longer X27.

 

[pdqdl]

I'll bet that chunk in your shin came from a deflected strike that carried through the stroke until it got your leg, right?
I missed my leg two times, and quit using it entirely.

 

[SS396driver]

I only use the 25 on smaller rounds and they are placed on a large round to stop any missed swings

 

[moxiemaul]

A chopping block is great, keeps the blade from digging up the dirt and helps with the angles as well. On the ground, short handled axes are liable to be a bit problematic when trying for strong swings, I use tools with 36" handles for that. I have a couple 28" haft axes, I use them mostly for kindling kinds of splitting, so the swings are milder and the wood is up on a block.