SawTroll
Information Collector
It would be a lot more work, usually!
Anyway, forcing a wedge into the kerf may work better than anything else!
Small axe for wedge driving
- Thread starter blsnelling
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It would be a lot more work, usually!
Anyway, forcing a wedge into the kerf may work better than anything else!
StihlyinEly
Addicted to ArboristSite
I think you will be fine if you cut slowly and with a fine saw so you don't get tearout of the fiberglass. I'd feel OK using the fine-tooth carbide blade on my DeWalt power mitre saw as long as I allowed it to reach peak rev and made my way through the handle slowly.
Then I'd be sure to seal the cut handle by dipping it in that liquid rubber stuff or applying fiberglass resin.
SawTroll
Information Collector
I can't see any problem with it, but why not go with the hickory option that is also listed.
I have bad experience with cheap (non-Fiskars) fiberglass handles!
I'm not concerned with making the actual cut. I didn't know if the entire handle was solid, or if the core "floated" in the middle, and cutting it off might leave the core hanging loose.
Get a wood handle. Fiberglass ones scare the bejeesus out of me: they're very bouncy and I've had a few shatter on me..just a bad scene all around. Learn how to hang the head, etc..sharpening is an artform as well..
I've been eyeing up the Snow and Nealley offerings on Bailey's for my next order.
I have several more axes than I have saws...probably a dozen axes.Good read here:
http://www.fhwa.dot.gov/environment/fspubs/99232823/toc.htm
Usage:
I've been eyeing up the Snow and Nealley offerings on Bailey's for my next order.
Are those really high quality axes? I am a sucker for quality you know. I was actually just noticing them myself.
bitzer
******** Timber Expert
Menards has Trupers 3.5lb. and 5lb. Hickory handles. You can cut the curved part off and have about 20 or so inches on the 3.5lb straight. I have both and they work great. I've beat the hell out of them with no problems. The 3.5lb is like $13. 5lb. is less than $20. Cheap and simple. I wouldn't trust fiberglass.
Yes. Not quite a Gransfors, but they're still hand forged like the Iltis Oxheads, Black Kings, and some of the Wetterlings. Not really axes that I'd personally use to pound wedges, but hey, you've already got the CAD...AAD will be a little less hard on the pocketbook! My favorite is the Black King, but it's a personal preference kind of thing.
I use a cheapo big box 3 1/2# x 30" handle for throwing around in the bush...after a few hours with a file & with the head pinned, of course. 30" is a nice length as it's closer to a baseball bat for two handed swingin...
I gotta admit that I always wondered why in the world one would use such a short little hitter for pounding wedges when watching your videos!!
Justsaws
Addicted to ArboristSite
They seem to be a well built axe. I have had one for a couple of years and it has held up well. Takes and holds a good edge. The handle while vanished was smoother than most and well shape from a quality piece of wood.
SINGLE-JACK
ArboristSite Guru
I've wondered the same thing but from a different view point. Why not use a standard 'long' axe for wedging? It would be interesting to hear some opinions.
This seems like a good thread discuss weight and length options for a wedging axe in different situations.
So, here's some questions:
A carry wedge axe is a compromise between a 'light' one handed hatchet & 'heavy' two handed axe?
A 2-1/2lb 20" seems to be the most popular carry wedge axe? Yes? No?
What's the best weight for one AND two handed use?
- light for easy carry & control,
- heavy for power.
What's the best length for one AND two handed use?
- short for one handed use & control,
- long for two handed use & power
Most wedging seems to be light work:
- to stabilize a stem while finishing the felling cuts?
- to control a light leaner?
- or to avoid (free) a pinched saw?
Hard wedging a heavy leaner requires a long heavy axe?
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bitzer
******** Timber Expert
I have not seen too many 2.5lbers. I would say 3.5lb. is most popular. Mine came with a 28" handle, but it was curved for the last 6" or so and in tight spots hard to swing. It also would tangle in my legs when hanging off the belt. I cut it down to around 20" or so. I can swing it well with one hand and still get two hands on it for hard wedging. The shorter handle is ideal for manuverability and the weight of the head does most of the work. I also have a 5lber for real heavy stuff, but I rarely ever need it. The handle is original not sure how long. Probably in the 36" range.
I had a really ugly boxelder I had to fell yesterday. It was only maybe 50' tall but the layout of the tree was just awful. It had two main trunks that split from the main stem about 5 feet up (The main stem leaned East). Each of those main trunks had another split about 5' up from there. (They were too high to fell individually) One trunk leaned hard to the West with each split pointing NW and SW both of which were nearly parallel to the ground. The other trunk leaned hard SE with one split S and the other split NE. The Eastern side was tangled into nearby trees and the most favorable direction I could find was west up slope and in the direction of the rest of my lay. I've had these split down the middle when trying to fall them and they are very sketchy. The tree was about 28" on the stump. I put a humboldt face a little less than halfway in and cut the bottom of the diagonal off about 4" toward the center so when the face closed it would break the hinge faster, because it would have less to close on. Then I bore cut it just behind the hinge and to the back of the tree. I left about 2" of hinge and 2 or 3" of back strap (section at the back of the tree supporting the weight). Then I drove in a wedge on each side of my bore cut until I couldn't pound them anymore. This was definetly hard pounding and my 3.5lber worked fine for it. I stood about as far away as I could as I cut the back strap, because of the tree being tangled in the rest of the canopy (some dead) and the fact that it could split down the middle and fall toward me. I cut the strap and she went over like a ton of sh$t. The ax and wedges had done their job and I got to go home in one piece. A long handle would not have worked because of my close proximity to other trees, but the extra weight may have been useful on a 5lber.
I apologize for this crazy long explaination, but that is one of many ways to use a wedge other than the obvious. For the most part wedging can be light work and technique and the saw take care of the rest, but there are times when wedging can be a nightmare. Especially if your cuts aren't lined up, branches are tangled in other trees, etc. I would say I mostly use a wedge as insurance, but they are invaluable in a tough situation that you didn't realize they would be.
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PB
Addicted to ArboristSite
I've been eyeing up the Snow and Nealley offerings on Bailey's for my next order.
I love the Snow and Nealley axes, just got a double bit 2 weeks ago. Quality axe heads with beautiful handles.
I would look other places for a better price on the axes. Bailey's is about $10 more for axes than I have seen, but I am just across the river from the factory.
KMB
Addicted to ArboristSite
I'm going to order one of their handles for an old 5lb. single bit axe head I have. I just have to finish getting the broken handle out of it...quite the chore.
Kevin
bitzer
******** Timber Expert
That one looks like it will do it and you could carry it on a belt if you wanted. If you've ever done any carpentry with a belt on you'll want it on a belt. My ax feels at home on my right side after having my 28oz. Estwing framing hammer swinging there off of my carpenters belt. Easy access so your not fumbling around. I used to put a few wedges in my back pocket and carry the ax. After a short while I thought nuts to that. I need a pouch and belt for this stuff. I keep a scrench and carb screwdiver in there too. Get a wedge pouch while your at it. They are cheap!
bjorn773
ArboristSite Operative
I carry the estwing with me whenever I go out. 4 pounds is more than enough to drive anything I've ever needed. Granted, I'm a firewood cutter, not a pro. They make great stuff, I've got their 3 & 5 pound sledges at work, a framing hammer at home and the camp axe. Plus it's made in my home town... gotta support my local economy.
http://www.estwing.com/product.php?product_id=1400
http://www.estwing.com/product.php?product_id=1400
fredmc
Addicted to ArboristSite
3# sledge or a 3# single bit axe with a flat back and a 20" handle, It depends on the trees and how far I'm away from the landing. If I'm in deep woods I'll always take the axe.
J.W Younger
ass kissing impaired
well , its not high tech but I use a single bit axe I found with a piece of broken mall handle cut about 14" for a handle.
cheap stuff I never lose.
cheap stuff I never lose.
This year, the trend was for the fallers to have painted their axe handles a flourescent orange or pink. I don't know whether it is now a requirement, but I noticed that guys cutting for the bigger outfit did it. It would make the axes easier to see in the brush.
