alright..
I pulled the carb off, and made sure all the screws were tight, and they were.
I pulled the extension off the between the block and the carb, the 4 torx screws were snug, but nowhere near tight. The gasket between the block and the tin air shroud, and the gasket between the tin shroud and the extension, the gasket between the extension and the carb, all looked good. I only put a dab around the stud holes on the carb/extension gasket to hold it securely in place to prevent it from migrating down and covering the pulse hole. I ALSO FOUND THAT 3 OF THE HEAD BOLTS WERE LOOSE:jawdrop:
Snugged it all down tight, and poured a few drops of gas down the throat, and it ran on the first pull.
I turned the low needle out a turn and it slowed down nicely, then I turned the base Idle out and it ildes so slow it almost stalls.
Problem is the chain always turns. THe bearing feels good, because the chain and clutch turn effortlessly when it is off. But if I idle it down, and stick the bar in some wood, it stops the chain and drags the engine down to almost stall speed.
I know that the speed it is idling at is more than low enough for the clutch shoes to retract, but they dont.
Im thinking that maybe the springs are just shot...any ideas?
On a better note..with some of the dullest chain Ive ever seen...it still grunts through the wood.
And I feel the air leak is fixed because when I choke it, it dies! And the High end needle is very responsive.
), so its in the AS data base somewhere, unfortunately the site I got it from is kapput. When I get a sec. I'll post the link (I think I posted it for dustytools as he was milling with one, not sure). Great little saw, really easy to work on, they last for years too. Mine was built in West Germany around '70 (Walbro carb, darn near bullet-proof). They stihl make parts an' pieces for 'em in Brazil from what I know, the German models wer produced into '94 I think. When I'm cash happy I'll be huntin' for another flywheel (cracked mine trying to pull the bloody thing off not realizing its 2 pieces, DOH! :bang: ). The one you worked on is a modern version, chainbrake etc., mine has the place for it but I believe it origionally came with a knuckle-guard. As lake said, clutch springs very cheap, replace 'em iffin your chains still moving, easy easy. And oh, before you give it back go and bury that bar a few times, impressive torque (lets not start another torque thread gents lol) for a 58cc, 3.6-8hp wee beast. For the last several years I've been using a 24" bar with 3/8ths semi-chisel on it, not a problem and eats through everything I've thrown at it (including some fair sized take-downs). I'm afraid mine will now take a backseat to the recently acquired MS270 but I'll ressurect it for big stuff or maybe a CSM, shame to let my new bar rust 
