So what's the current Two stroke oil favorite for

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Me too, I have always ran Stihl HP Ultra. Never had an issue. MS310/440 and Echo CS355T. My 310 is going on 20 years old and has a lot of hours on it and still runs perfect. Someone on here many pages back said they would never run Stihl oil, but didn't say why.
Ultra really is terrible oil sold at top dollar. Any other OEM oil is much better.
 
Ultra really is terrible oil sold at top dollar. Any other OEM oil is much better.
What are you calling Stihl Ultra? The oil I use is in a orange bottle and is marked "High Performance"
Not sure if this what everyone is calling Ultra. Any hoo, been using it for all my Stihl saws without one single failure.
 
I've bn looking at the VP since it's easier to get at Tractor Supply but haven't seen many reviews on it. I have to order all my oil and looking for something readily available. I bn running Motul 800 2t and jus ordered 4 pints of Honda HP2 for $8 a pint. The town I live in the Honda shop closed and nearest shop is 50 miles away. I'm not a fan of Stihl oil so I'm stuck with ordering on line.

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What are you calling Stihl Ultra? The oil I use is in a orange bottle and is marked "High Performance"
Not sure if this what everyone is calling Ultra. Any hoo, been using it for all my Stihl saws without one single failure.

The Ultra is the silver bottle synthetic that Stihl offers.


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Not hardly. The various components of gasoline smell different, look different and have different chemical structures.
Better fire up the Google again...
Actually, gasoline is a solution, not a mixture. The components are blended to the molecular level. A mixture has discreet components. An example would be a mixture of sand and sugar.
 
I run Castrol Power 1 Racing 2T mixed to alkylated gas at 40:1. I run same mix in my clearing saws and 2-wheelers. Burns clean, doesn't smell.

Recently I did buy couple of boxes of Red Line Two-cycle Kart Oil from a close out sale at less than half price. Haven't tried it yet in anything but should be good.
 
What are you calling Stihl Ultra? The oil I use is in a orange bottle and is marked "High Performance"
Not sure if this what everyone is calling Ultra. Any hoo, been using it for all my Stihl saws without one single failure.
You know, the silver bottle that bwalker says is "really terrible". It is their synthetic.
 
Stihl synthetic is terrible? I just don’t believe it. Chainsaws run very well on it & if you keep fresh gas & know how to maintain a sharp chain do regular maintenance on your saw, your Stihl will perform very well & last a long time using this oil. My ported saws were done by Ken Dickinson from Ferndale Wa, he has built saws for 40 years he recommends Stihl Ultra, my most recent ported saw a 661was done by Daniel Urich (Supermodify) he is one of the most respected saw builders in the PNW he is also a cutter, he recommended that I use Stihl Ultra in his saws. I have used Motul 2t, Belray etc & I find Stihl ultra performs and protects just as well. These builders I mentioned aren’t on any saw forums but if you have ever watched Pat Lacey (Stihlslinger) on YouTube the black 661 he runs is a Daniel Urich saw. My two cents is worth about two cents but there it is anyhow.
That is just bwalkers opinion, but he didn't have any reasons why. I've been using it for years, no issues. I would use other brands as well, but there is nothing wrong with the Stihl synthetic. These threads can be quite ridiculous.
 
You can mix up CHEAP 10W-30 oil from Walmart as premix, and it'll probably work well for years & years, too. Doesn't mean it's the best way of doing things. I guarantee you'll be having carbon build up enough to choke the saw down to where it won't start, let alone cut anything. Same with Stihl oil - carbon buildup keeps their service department fat and happy. Like I said, they're not in the business of having your saw last forever.

A good synthetic will have next to no carbon build up. My neighbor buys Saber from me and runs that in his Stihl - he cut 10 acres with this ONE saw, and it's NEVER been apart. I've never had to do any carburetor tuning either. The built-in fuel stabilizer in Saber works great. My customers that insist on running OE or cheap dollar store oil are here all the time getting carbon scraped and burnt out of mufflers, spark screens, piston crowns, and exhaust ports after so many hours. If you cut 2 or 3 branches a year, then 10w-30 is the oil to use - it'll work. But if your WORK your saw, there's no replacement for top shelf synthetic oil.

To each his own.
 
That is just bwalkers opinion, but he didn't have any reasons why. I've been using it for years, no issues. I would use other brands as well, but there is nothing wrong with the Stihl synthetic. These threads can be quite ridiculous.
It's not my opinion that it's an ashless, FB rated oil formulated as a band aid fix for Stihl four stroke motors. It produces excess deposits in an air cooled two stroke ran hard. About what one would expect from a FB rated oil. It also stinks something terrible.
If your OK running with that all the while paying too much have at it.
 
Just purchased some saber a couple weeks ago, anxious to try it, I must say that in your thread you mention that if you cut 2 or 3 branches a year that is the oil to use but if you work your saw.......? I used to cut north of a million board feet a year so I wasn’t your 2 or 3 branches guy. I can guarantee I WORKED a saw most likely harder than you,& most on regular old orange bottle Stihl or husky oil without a failure ever!
Never said you'd have a failure ... but I guarantee you didn't go that length of time without SEVERAL trips to the exhaust port for a scraping.

The comment about 2-3 branches a year was in regard to 10w-30 motor oil as 2-stroke oil - I should've clarified and/or wrote that a bit better.
 
It's not my opinion that it's an ashless, FB rated oil formulated as a band aid fix for Stihl four stroke motors. It produces excess deposits in an air cooled two stroke ran hard. About what one would expect from a FB rated oil. It also stinks something terrible.
If your OK running with that all the while paying too much have at it.
As I said previously , Ultra was designed by Stihl for use in its new 4 mix engines . These engines have inherent teardown schedules for valve inspection & cleaning adjustment . If you use it within reasonable ratio's in a properly tuned saw it would be adequate however like most FB rated oil it is not clean . Carbon deposits are inherent . As is smoke & odour . Just saying !
 
All you guys are probably right, I just felt like arguing, my lady friend is a nurse & working with covid people so we are separated & I haven’t had a good ol argument in a while😬
Oil threads are tame, you want argument, head over to p+R, you'll get all you can stomach.
 
All good, I sometimes overreact & take things personal when I shouldn’t. I can promise you I have never scraped carbon off an exhaust port, I would pull the screens sometimes on the muffler and throw them in a little gas but I kept air filters clean, every Sunday I would blow saw off-out, grease needle bearing, I would grind chain every night(sqaure) & run the piss out of these ported saws. I just don’t see anything special about cutting 10 acres with one saw, this is not uncommon with a correctly tuned, maintained pro saw. Stihl 660 or a 390 husky in my case. One that wasn’t jerked on when pinched causing air leaks etc. I’m sure there are better oils than Stihl ultra but it is not horrible oil as some have said. I believe running a really sharp chain & good common sense when falling and bucking is the key to longevity. I could be wrong & just lucky with my saws in the past.
Yes, it's that horrible. Unless you like paying top dollar for a early 80's quality oil that wasn't designed for a modern chainsaw.
 
Amsoil Saber mixed at 60:1. I used to use Lawnboy oil in my Lawnboy mower. Had to clean the exhaust ports at the end of each season. Nothing in the exhaust ports after using Saber. Ditto to a smaller extent for my Homelite XL12 using Homelite oil. Less buildup than the Lawnboy, but it was still reduced to something that I can wipe out with a paper towel or qtip at the end of the year. Zero trouble with sour fuel using Saber.
 
Yamalube R at 40:1 for my yard equipment with Super Unleaded. My personal equipment has never had an ethanol fuel related issue but I have seen ethanol related fuel line issues at work with a group that does not run our ethanol free fuel that we supply for small engines. Work premix is Stihl Ultra.
 

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