So what's the current Two stroke oil favorite for

[North by Northwest]

I have two Lawnboy self propelled mowers. Both bought new, one in 1974, one in 1994. Running Amsoil synthetic oil there is zero smoke from them. Both mowers still run strong and are on their 7th and 4th set of wheels respectively.

Don't ever mention Saber in a Lawnboy forum brother , OMC TCW-3 oil only !

 

[North by Northwest]

Naw. With most cleaner burning oils, the more you use, the cleaner the saw runs

Your statement is correct , and 2T is a FD ester base rated oil , however not designed for small air cooled engines . Dominator also , not recommended by Amsoil for use in small air cooled engines either . Neither oil as bad as Stihl Ultra FB jaso rated , for dirty burning oil results in a low compression & heat producing stock chainsaw , however there are numerous other oils more suitable for saw usage . I prefer to use oils that are recommended by their respective manufacturers for saw application usage not larger air / liquid cooled motorcycle & snowmobile engines in extreme racing applications !

 

[PasoRoblesJimmy]

Why is the VP product better than Truefuel?

VP Fuels 50:1 2-cycle mix is 92 octane. TruFuel is only 89 octane. 92 octane makes for easier starting.

VP Fuels 50:1 2-cycle mix is a full 128 oz gallon. TruFuel is only 110 ozs.

 

[Joisey]

Don't ever mention Saber in a Lawnboy forum brother , OMC TCW-3 oil only !

I have, and have been told that it will destroy my mowers. I ask them why they are running with zero trouble for well over 10 years of using Saber in them? They get over it.

 

[bwalker]

Don't ever mention Saber in a Lawnboy forum brother , OMC TCW-3 oil only !

Saber or any low ash oil works poorly in a lawnboy motor. And I say this based on expiereance.

 

[bwalker]

VP Fuels 50:1 2-cycle mix is 92 octane. TruFuel is only 89 octane. 92 octane makes for easier starting.

VP Fuels 50:1 2-cycle mix is a full 128 oz gallon. TruFuel is only 110 ozs.

Yea, no. Octane has nothing to do with ease of starting.

 

[REJ2]

VP Fuels 50:1 2-cycle mix is 92 octane. TruFuel is only 89 octane. 92 octane makes for easier starting.

VP Fuels 50:1 2-cycle mix is a full 128 oz gallon. TruFuel is only 110 ozs.

The TruFuel 50:1 I've had in the past was 92 octane, but I couldn't find an empty so I checked their website, 92 octane it is.

https://trufuel50.com/501-mix/

 

[North by Northwest]

Saber or any low ash oil works poorly in a lawnboy motor. And I say this based on expiereance.

Is that anything like experience ?

 

[Smitty Smithsonite]

If anything a lower octane fuel would make for easier starting, disregarding it's propensity for detonation. Faster burn, easier starting, theoretically. Doubtful octane would play that big of a role in starting ease. Compression, healthy spark, and fuel mixture will, however.

 

[North by Northwest]

Saber or any low ash oil works poorly in a lawnboy motor. And I say this based on expiereance.

C-series 16:1 OMC or TCW-3 oils only . D-series 3 ring engine 16:1 , 2-ring engine 32:1 OMC or TCW-3 oils only . M-series engine 32:1 OMC synthetic injector oil or equivalent premix rated @ 40:1 Personally I ran both LB M series & Toro F series @ 50: 1 with Opti2 for over 40 yrs and still running well . The C& D series really required heavier viscosity due to less than tight engineering tolerances & bearing designs of that era !

 

[OM617YOTA]

My Trufuel is 92 octane.

Properly tuned, I've not had starting issues with any fuel I've run. Non ethanol premium, Trufuel, or even back when I had no clue what I was doing, burning regular 87 octane unleaded E10 with Craftsman single gallon dose bottle of whatever two stroke oil in a 42cc Poulan/Craftsman.

 

[Joisey]

Saber or any low ash oil works poorly in a lawnboy motor. And I say this based on expiereance.

I will inform my two Lawnboy mowers tomorrow.

 

[bwalker]

If anything a lower octane fuel would make for easier starting, disregarding it's propensity for detonation. Faster burn, easier starting, theoretically. Doubtful octane would play that big of a role in starting ease. Compression, healthy spark, and fuel mixture will, however.

Again, No. Reid vapor pressure plays an important part in how easy a fuel starts. The RVP numbers are set by regulation the same for both.
Premium doesn't burn any slower either. All pump gas has about the same flame speed.

 

[bwalker]

C-series 16:1 OMC or TCW-3 oils only . D-series 3 ring engine 16:1 , 2-ring engine 32:1 OMC or TCW-3 oils only . M-series engine 32:1 OMC synthetic injector oil or equivalent premix rated @ 40:1 Personally I ran both LB M series & Toro F series @ 50: 1 with Opti2 for over 40 yrs and still running well . The C& D series really required heavier viscosity due to less than tight engineering tolerances & bearing designs of that era !

Most of my expiereance has been with Duraforce motors. I've had three of them and two snowblower with the same basic engine in piston port format.
I'll post some piston pics tonight.

 

[Smitty Smithsonite]

Again, No. Reid vapor pressure plays an important part in how easy a fuel starts. The RVP numbers are set by regulation the same for both.
Premium doesn't burn any slower either. All pump gas has about the same flame speed.

If that's the case, then how does premium fuel prevent detonation any more than 87?

The difference between the 2 is minuscule in terms of burn speed - you'd need a camera that cost more than my first 4 automobiles to capture it. The reason I say this is because we used to jet motorcycles for the fuel they were running. If you ran octane that was too high for the engine, you'd lose 3 or so RWHP on the dyno. My buddy would always run 110 octane race fuel thinking he was making more power. We proved it on the dyno that in fact the opposite was true. My theory was there's a difference in burn speed between one extreme to the next in octane ratings.

 

[OM617YOTA]

How easily a fuel ignites, and how fast it burns once it ignites, are two entirely different things.

 

[Smitty Smithsonite]

This is true. I don't have all the answers, no doubt about it!

I do know that the winter blend fuel is easier to ignite in the summer, probably because it gives off fumes more readily in heat. I've blown out mufflers on mowers with winter blend fuel by shutting them down with the throttle closed. Rarely happens with summer blend fuel.

 

[LoneOak]

 

[Smitty Smithsonite]

Never knew Stihl made their own fuel! I can imagine what that costs per gallon ...

 

[bwalker]

If that's the case, then how does premium fuel prevent detonation any more than 87?

The difference between the 2 is minuscule in terms of burn speed - you'd need a camera that cost more than my first 4 automobiles to capture it. The reason I say this is because we used to jet motorcycles for the fuel they were running. If you ran octane that was too high for the engine, you'd lose 3 or so RWHP on the dyno. My buddy would always run 110 octane race fuel thinking he was making more power. We proved it on the dyno that in fact the opposite was true. My theory was there's a difference in burn speed between one extreme to the next in octane ratings.

Because ignition isn't the same thing as detonation. Detonation prevented by stopping the formation of active radicals that cause it. Not inhibiting flame speed of ignition as both would make it more likely for detonation to occur.