So what's the current Two stroke oil favorite for

[Brufab]

I read thru all 32 pages of the thread yesterday. Alot of the technical info was over my head. But quite informative to say the least. So the ashless oil doesn't smoke? Or is it very minimal? I don't want to burn up my old saws because tear downs and parts are a real pain. I am mixing synthetic oil at 32:1 in old 1960s 16:1 era saws as recommended by guys in other saw threads here. When idling no smoke then alil smoke when throttled up then no smoke when I'm wot. Is that normal. And I have yet to figure out the 4 stroking out of the cut. I'm just a hobby logger and firewood guy. Newer echos and 1960s remingtons. Thanks guys for an interesting and informative thread. I guess I did one thing right by running red armor as it has been suggested in the thread that it's towards the top in quality.

 

[CJ1]

Not Shell.
Stihl Ultra, your favorite

hey Kevin, when you open up that red saw, take a couple of pics of the topend, I would be curious to what it looks like. CJ

 

[Tomos770]

I read thru all 32 pages of the thread yesterday. Alot of the technical info was over my head. But quite informative to say the least. So the ashless oil doesn't smoke? Or is it very minimal? I don't want to burn up my old saws because tear downs and parts are a real pain.

Dont use ashless oil in your saws (e.i. TCW 3 oil)..... You need low ash formulated oil (e.i. API TC JASO FC JASO FD....)

Regarding 4stroking....search content on YouTube!

 

[Brufab]

So this was not a good thing to buy for my saws then? I was mixing 1 oz per 1 quart ethanol free gas. Thanks fellas.

 

[huskihl]

hey Kevin, when you open up that red saw, take a couple of pics of the topend, I would be curious to what it looks like. CJ

I took the muffler off and it was ok inside. Nice and clean.
It’s ready, btw. Fuel lines were shot

 

[jakethesnake]

Like cuttin grass jelly? @jellyroll

 

[Brufab]

Looks like I will be running 4 oz to 1 gal red armor in my old 16:1 saws from now on after reading all the posts in this thread.

 

[scor440tk]

Husky LS+ 50:1 Wouldn't have a clue whether it's better or worse as a lubricant but by trial and error found it makes my 2 stroke motors' exhaust smell least objectionable.

Switched to this in my Homelites not disappointed at all and won’t break the bank for me.

 

[Piotr Pakuła]

I do not see this oil echo here in europe

 

[Brufab]

I wonder if you can buy it though the mail? I wasn't aware it was as good as guys say it is. My echo dealer recommended I run it in my saws when I purchased a few a couple years ago. After @huskihl posted pics now I see why the dealer said to run it.

 

[bwalker]

I read thru all 32 pages of the thread yesterday. Alot of the technical info was over my head. But quite informative to say the least. So the ashless oil doesn't smoke? Or is it very minimal? I don't want to burn up my old saws because tear downs and parts are a real pain. I am mixing synthetic oil at 32:1 in old 1960s 16:1 era saws as recommended by guys in other saw threads here. When idling no smoke then alil smoke when throttled up then no smoke when I'm wot. Is that normal. And I have yet to figure out the 4 stroking out of the cut. I'm just a hobby logger and firewood guy. Newer echos and 1960s remingtons. Thanks guys for an interesting and informative thread. I guess I did one thing right by running red armor as it has been suggested in the thread that it's towards the top in quality.

Ash levels refer to the sulfated ash bench test. It measures how much mettalic compounds are present and Is indicative of the additive package type used. Has nothing to do with smoke.

 

[Brufab]

Thanks I noticed awhile back when I switched to synthetic oil mix the blue smoke basically disappeared. Alot of this oil technology is kinda over my head.

 

[bwalker]

Thanks I noticed awhile back when I switched to synthetic oil mix the blue smoke basically disappeared. Alot of this oil technology is kinda over my head.

I don't know much about old saws, but before I decided on a oil ratio for one I would want to know what type of bearings they have. Some of the old engines used things like babbitt and bronze in their bearings and really need alot more oil. Just something to think about.

 

[KASH]

I was given a Toro very similar to the one shown got it running but probably I will never use it because it is self propelled.It is well built except for the cheapo plastic parts LB used.
Give me a brick top D thats a good mower.
Kash

 

[bwalker]

I was given a Toro very similar to the one shown got it running but probably I will never use it because it is self propelled.It is well built except for the cheapo plastic parts LB used.
Give me a brick top D thats a good mower.
Kash

I started my mowing career with a early 70's era Lawnboy and used several consecutively newer models over the years. The last I had was a last year model Duraforce. They steadily went down in quality. The Duraforce was an absolute piece of crap compared to the old ones. After my last Duraforce ate a read and several short blocks previous I trashed it and went to a Honda.

 

[jellyroll]

I was given a Toro very similar to the one shown got it running but probably I will never use it because it is self propelled.It is well built except for the cheapo plastic parts LB used.
Give me a brick top D thats a good mower.
Kash

If i was closer i would be glad to take it off your hands so i could put it to use in spring.

 

[jellyroll]

I started my mowing career with a early 70's era Lawn boy and used several consecutively newer models over the years. The last I had was a last year model Dura force. They steadily went down in quality. The Dura force was an absolute piece of crap compared to the old ones. After my last Dura force ate a read and several short blocks previous I trashed it and went to a Honda.

The Dura force was plagued by weak connecting rods and the bearings would fail on 50:1 mixes.

 

[KASH]

Plus the famous quarrentied too fail coils.
Kash

 

[bwalker]

The Dura force was plagued by weak connecting rods and the bearings would fail on 50:1 mixes.

They didn't last even at 32:1 if the rpm was even a small amount above book max and many of them where from the factory.

 

[bwalker]

Plus the famous quarrentied too fail coils.
Kash

Coils where absolutely terrible as well. I bought one every spring and more often then not would replace it at some point during the season.