So what's the current Two stroke oil favorite for

[jakethesnake]

You can, but that one time the saw gets super hot one summer, a water cooled oil can break down and cause some damage.

I run Amsoil Saber in my air-cooled paramotor - I've seen cylinder head temps measured at the base of the spark plug reach 400° during climb out on a 90°+ day. I'm full throttle for 2 minutes straight or longer to gain an altitude I'm comfortable with (more altitude = more options if the engine decides to crap out). Hotter days = a slower climb rate, so I'm on the throttle longer. I'd wager a water cooled oil would've given up 100° earlier in that climb.

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If you’re riding that death machine you sir are insane

 

[CaseyForrest]

So then of the 4, Yamalube and Redline?

 

[bwalker]

So then of the 4, Yamalube and Redline?

Yamalube is good stuff.

 

[North by Northwest]

I put a photo or 3 up on the Lucas. It’s not good

Have used it in Liquid Cooled snowmobiles , full syn it was adequate , a little carbon on the power valves nothing to serious the semi synthetic same performance in Air Cooled saws , just adequate . But then at its price point what do you expect !

I put a photo or 3 up on the Lucas. It’s not good

Its adequate if you know how to tune for it !

 

[North by Northwest]

Yamalube is good stuff.

Yamalube , I have had good service with in numerous applications . The Red line only in a few trimmer / blower applications , although in this forum numerous people have endorsed it . I have no bad experiences to relate against Red line other not readily available locally up North here .

 

[bwalker]

Yamalube , I have had good service with in numerous applications . The Red line only in a few trimmer / blower applications , although in this forum numerous people have endorsed it . I have no bad experiences to relate against Red line other not readily available locally up North here .

Redline Racing Oil is garbage. No expiereance with all sport.

 

[jakethesnake]

Have used it in Liquid Cooled snowmobiles , full syn it was adequate , a little carbon on the power valves nothing to serious the semi synthetic same performance in Air Cooled saws , just adequate . But then at its price point what do you expect !

Its adequate if you know how to tune for it !

No. No it isn’t. Wear was the problem. Dry bearings don’t go well. I can tune pretty well

 

[bwalker]

No. No it isn’t. Wear was the problem. Dry bearings don’t go well. I can tune pretty well

I agree. No amount of tuning will fix the issues I have seen with it.
Plus Lucas is a snake oil company in the first place.

 

[jakethesnake]

I can’t speak for the full synthetic. The other I saw if for myself. Not in pictures. I took the pictures.

 

[JRM]

Stihl ultra isn’t so good

Still waiting for evidence of this....

 

[JRM]

Stihl Ultra 40:1 with e free from the pump is the greatest….


Not


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I can't help but wonder why my saws, which have run Ultra exclusively for years don't look like this.

 

[Piotr Pakuła]

because it depends on the mix of carburetor tuning and finally the use itself

 

[JRM]

because it depends on the mix of carburetor tuning and finally the use itself

That sure seems to play a large role. Which is why I don't understand why people don't follow the saw manufacturers mixture recommendations. I think the engineers that have put thousands of hours into R&D can make a stronger case for what they recomend than anyone else here that dreams up their own homebrew and then wonder why their saws look like hell, no offense intended.

 

[Piotr Pakuła]

I've always used mineral oil and nothing happened, more than a gallon for sure. Only last year I bought 2L polynthetics

 

[jakethesnake]

Still waiting for evidence of this....

Did you look at any of the pictures posted ?

no offense it’s just that there’s so many other oils out there that don’t carbon things up.

myself I’ll just use a different oil.

 

[JRM]

Did you look at any of the pictures posted ?

no offense it’s just that there’s so many other oils out there that don’t carbon things up.

myself I’ll just use a different oil.

I have, and almost every one of them admit to using a different mixture than is recommended by the manufacturer. All Stihl products have been tuned to 50:1 for years, don't we think the oil is part of that equation? Do the same people put 15w40 in an engine that calls for 0w20, cuz more is better?
Again I ask the question, why don't my saws look like that after years of running Stihl oil exclusively. Judging by the comments on here its a real mystery.

 

[North by Northwest]

I can't help but wonder why my saws, which have run Ultra exclusively for years don't look like this.

Ultra was never designed for a conventional 2T chainsaw engine . Ultra HP is a better oil for your usage. However , you must have your saw tuned well if you have no spong or carbon fouling . I have a buddy who still uses the Ultra with no problems also in a 462 lol.

 

[North by Northwest]

Redline Racing Oil is garbage. No expiereance with all sport.

Like i said no experience with the Redline Racing oil only the aircooled trimmer oil .

 

[jakethesnake]

I have, and almost every one of them admit to using a different mixture than is recommended by the manufacturer. All Stihl products have been tuned to 50:1 for years, don't we think the oil is part of that equation? Do the same people put 15w40 in an engine that calls for 0w20, cuz more is better?
Again I ask the question, why don't my saws look like that after years of running Stihl oil exclusively. Judging by the comments on here its a real mystery.

If it works for you. Run it. It’s been explained here for years and years. Not a mystery really. Some of these guys work on saws everyday. I work on my own. I’ll use something different

 

[JRM]

Ultra was never designed for a conventional 2T chainsaw engine . Ultra HP is a better oil for your usage.

The 2 oils I am aware of (maybe theres others?) Are the HP and HP Ultra. I have used the HP Ultra from day one in my 460 and 290, I was referring to the HP Ultra. Sorry for the confusion.

However , you must have your daw tuned well if you have no spong or carbon fouling .

Dang close to factory settings. I've seldom had to tweak either of my saws. I haven't touched the carb adjustments in either for at least a couple of seasons.
But I also run the recommended 50:1 (go figure! )