So what's the current Two stroke oil favorite for

[LoneOak]

IKR!

 

[jakethesnake]

@JRM good call man. There’s lots of good oils out there. If red armor wasn’t so damn expensive I’d recommend that. But if it’s not a super huge deal try it. It’ll help clean those passages up too.

 

[huskihl]

Another member of the paper hat brigade!
The saw is on YouTube. Check Kevin's page out.

It’s not pine though lol. 26” beech will put a strain on a 361

 

[bullittman281]

I'm disappointed. I've an entire thread and nobody runs GaryGOO. Unbelievable.

On a more serious note about oil....

I typically run Motorcycle shop oils. Lots of Belray and a bit of Golden Spectro. I've had horrific luck with Super Techniplate making a mess of things. BAD!!! It was death to fuel filters. Clogzilla. No idea.

Unfortunately I don't run the saws enough for oil choice to matter much or show much of a difference. I kipe onto only a cord or 2 a year and most of the work is already done. I used to get lots of Belray MC1. I like this stuff a lot. The trials bikes seemed to do fine with it at 50:1. Old bottles had a strong warning about high dilution ratios only and the risk of stuck rings. The newer bottles don't have the warning. Packaging changed and now its very hard to find. I've used H1R in its place and I'm not as impressed. I had a woodsified YZ250 that got H1R for the life of and entire top end. Weisco piston. Started getting noisy at 90 Hrs. Wanted to go 100. Piston was SHINY. Like super super SHINEY. H1R calls for 40-50:1. I used 50:1. I don't think that was enough even for woods riding. More oil would probably have been a better choice. Next round was going to be Golden Spectro but sold the bike instead. I'm running a Beta 300 now but I haven't been inside. The YZ was CLEAN inside. Nothing in the exhaust and very little spooge. Water cooled though so not an apples to apples comparison to a saw.

At work we run only orange bottle Stihl oil. Seems to work OK. I I find some deposits but nothing alarming. don't think I would run it in the bikes though..... We have some 200Ts and 201Ts that go most of the day every day and they seem fine. Its amazing the amount of run time some of this stuff will tolerate and not need work. Things tend to get smashed or fall to their death before they can get worn out. Based on this thread though I will steer clear of Stihl Ultra.

For now my saws will get the same stuff that the bikes get. Its handy and I don't have to have different mixes. When the Spectro is gone I'll likely go back to H1R because I can get it. I am curious about opti2. The stuff has been around a long time.

Bullittman

 

[jellyroll]

I'm disappointed. I've an entire thread and nobody runs GaryGOO. Unbelievable.

On a more serious note about oil....

I typically run Motorcycle shop oils. Lots of Belray and a bit of Golden Spectro. I've had horrific luck with Super Techniplate making a mess of things. BAD!!! It was death to fuel filters. Clogzilla. No idea.

Unfortunately I don't run the saws enough for oil choice to matter much or show much of a difference. I kipe onto only a cord or 2 a year and most of the work is already done. I used to get lots of Belray MC1. I like this stuff a lot. The trials bikes seemed to do fine with it at 50:1. Old bottles had a strong warning about high dilution ratios only and the risk of stuck rings. The newer bottles don't have the warning. Packaging changed and now its very hard to find. I've used H1R in its place and I'm not as impressed. I had a woodsified YZ250 that got H1R for the life of and entire top end. Weisco piston. Started getting noisy at 90 Hrs. Wanted to go 100. Piston was SHINY. Like super super SHINEY. H1R calls for 40-50:1. I used 50:1. I don't think that was enough even for woods riding. More oil would probably have been a better choice. Next round was going to be Golden Spectro but sold the bike instead. I'm running a Beta 300 now but I haven't been inside. The YZ was CLEAN inside. Nothing in the exhaust and very little spooge. Water cooled though so not an apples to apples comparison to a saw.

At work we run only orange bottle Stihl oil. Seems to work OK. I I find some deposits but nothing alarming. don't think I would run it in the bikes though..... We have some 200Ts and 201Ts that go most of the day every day and they seem fine. Its amazing the amount of run time some of this stuff will tolerate and not need work. Things tend to get smashed or fall to their death before they can get worn out. Based on this thread though I will steer clear of Stihl Ultra.

For now my saws will get the same stuff that the bikes get. Its handy and I don't have to have different mixes. When the Spectro is gone I'll likely go back to H1R because I can get it. I am curious about opti2. The stuff has been around a long time.

Bullittman

Opti 2 needs to be kept in a warm spot in the winter it doesn't mix easily when cold because it isn't pre diluted like some oils.

 

[CJ1]

Don't sell yourself short Kevin , your reputation precedes you brother . I have it on good resource your a wealth of information . P.S. I just put back together an old Homelite top handle I am going to do the trial on with the Dominator vs Interceptor vs Saber . I have not forgotten your advice ! Thanks !

I have ran all 3 oils and the interceptor does burn a bit cleaner than the Dominator. Ran a bunch of interceptor in sleds for injection oil. We use Saber as a mix oil when we are going on long dirt bike trips, doesn't take much oil at 100 to 1. I have no wear data on Saber as the bikes are normally run on Dominator. Both the Dominator and interceptor show almost 0 wear on all of our bikes. And yes this is with measurements before the personal attacks start! We ran a 01 KTM 250exc to failure just to see what would happen. 15000+ miles over 550 hours on dominator and saber. 45 to 50 to 1 on dominator and 100 to 1 on saber. We purchased the bike new so I had a baseline. Compression was still within 10 psi of new just before the ring land broke on the first compression ring. Topend was NEVER touched. Rings were badly worn at over .030 more than spec but they had been run excessively! Bike should have had at least 5 topends! Piston skirt only had minor wear along with the nikasil plating. Cyl could have been cleaned and a oversize piston put in but when the ringland broke it scared the cyl wall. PV was fairly clean and still worked but was sticky. Put a new topend on the bike and it is still running. As far as saws go I have only had 2 of mine apart. 1 372 totally exploded the piston as it was heavily worked and very weak. Kevin fixed that one for me and it is still running the OEM cylinder. I pulled my 357 apart and cleaned the ports up and deleted the base gasket. No measurable wear any place and clean on the inside. Guessing 300 tanks of fuel+. Sold saw to a friend and it still runs great. [The one I should not have sold]. As far as the interceptor in sleds, pv and chambers have always looked clean and require very little maintenance. never measured any of them as they did not need to be torn down any farther. We also use Amsoil injector oil in our boats with good success. 2 300 HPDI's [most fussy engine Yamaha ever built] 1 250 HPDI and a 250 OX66. 1 of the 300's and the OX are modded. We used to run Yamalube and they required cleaning and alot of seafoam at least once a year. The 02 sensor in the OX was nasty with the Yamalube, with the Amsoil it has been good and only needs cleaned once every few years. We ran Yamalube in the race sleds and it was dirty in them also, protected good but dirty. Anyway sorry about the long post but this is just some of my past experience with Amsoil. Ran a bunch of Klotz products with varying success. R50 was a plug fouling SOB! Anyway just a FYI. CJ

 

[Cycledude]

I only use 50:1 oil and really don’t care much what brand it happens to be

 

[KTM-DOn]

For now my saws will get the same stuff that the bikes get.

I was wondering if bike guys would put in their point of view. There is nothing that results in more angry folks and locked threads on the bike forums than oil arguments, often started by an innocent newbie to the forum. In any case, I've been a 2 stroke dirt bike guy for 50 yrs (yikes!) and owned saws for just as long. When the kids were starting out on 85cc bikes, we had crank issues that led to a lot of thought about oil choice and mix ratios. At the time we were running BelRay at 50:1, which I had been doing for years on my 250's. We ended up using Motul 800, or Motul 710 to save a little money, mixed at 36:1. So that's what goes in the saws, for better or for worse. I've not cut all day long since I was a kid, so the old 034 has a pretty easy life.

The bikes get top ends periodically as preventative maintenance, so my measure of oil performance is visible wear and carbon buildup. The Motul products seem to perform very well, so I see no reason to change.

 

[CJ1]

I was wondering if bike guys would put in their point of view. There is nothing that results in more angry folks and locked threads on the bike forums than oil arguments, often started by an innocent newbie to the forum. In any case, I've been a 2 stroke dirt bike guy for 50 yrs (yikes!) and owned saws for just as long. When the kids were starting out on 85cc bikes, we had crank issues that led to a lot of thought about oil choice and mix ratios. At the time we were running BelRay at 50:1, which I had been doing for years on my 250's. We ended up using Motul 800, or Motul 710 to save a little money, mixed at 36:1. So that's what goes in the saws, for better or for worse. I've not cut all day long since I was a kid, so the old 034 has a pretty easy life.

The bikes get top ends periodically as preventative maintenance, so my measure of oil performance is visible wear and carbon buildup. The Motul products seem to perform very well, so I see no reason to change.

Hey, good to see you here! Yea sad about the whole oil debate! Mike at cycle playground was the one who convinced me to go to Dominator as he has not found a better protecting and clean running oil. He tried a bunch of different ones for his kid when he was running 80cc bikes and had the best results with Dominator. His son is HARD on bikes as a pro rider. CJ

 

[KTM-DOn]

I've only heard good things about Amsoil Dominator, and it sounds like Mike has the experience to back it up. I think the 80cc bikes are the toughest case, the kids are fast enough to completely hammer those tiny motors. If I didn't have 2 kids on 85's at the same time, I probably would still be running Bel Ray or good old Spectro. I just recycled a whole box of blue cranks out of various 85 and 105 KTM motors.

 

[KTM-DOn]

What kind of riding are you into, CJ1? I'm in the Ann Arbor area, and spent many hours racing MX at Milan on Friday night. Now it's mostly MX practice days; Milan, Log Rd, Battle Creek, etc.

 

[Slackinoff]

I have had good luck with motocross oils. My favorites to run below.

R50 - Klotz ( This is my #1 favorite to run, burns clean and the smell is unique but not overpowering)
Honda HP2 ( 2nd favorite, smell can get overpowering though)
Blendzall Green Label ( 3rd favorite - but somtimes that caster oil smell really gets to me....I know a lot of folks love that smell, and I do too, but when I am working really hard....I get sick of it)

 

[Piotr Pakuła]

this piston does not look good / partner 842

 

[jellyroll]

this piston does not look good / partner 842

Worn plating i would clean it up and run it.

 

[CJ1]

What kind of riding are you into, CJ1? I'm in the Ann Arbor area, and spent many hours racing MX at Milan on Friday night. Now it's mostly MX practice days; Milan, Log Rd, Battle Creek, etc.

Enduro and single track mostly, we have almost 10 miles of single track cut into our woods between me and all the neighbors. I quit the track riding years ago. too old for that. I am on KTM talk also. CJ

 

[bwalker]

this piston does not look good / partner 842

Pretty unique piston.

 

[bwalker]

I have ran all 3 oils and the interceptor does burn a bit cleaner than the Dominator. Ran a bunch of interceptor in sleds for injection oil. We use Saber as a mix oil when we are going on long dirt bike trips, doesn't take much oil at 100 to 1. I have no wear data on Saber as the bikes are normally run on Dominator. Both the Dominator and interceptor show almost 0 wear on all of our bikes. And yes this is with measurements before the personal attacks start! We ran a 01 KTM 250exc to failure just to see what would happen. 15000+ miles over 550 hours on dominator and saber. 45 to 50 to 1 on dominator and 100 to 1 on saber. We purchased the bike new so I had a baseline. Compression was still within 10 psi of new just before the ring land broke on the first compression ring. Topend was NEVER touched. Rings were badly worn at over .030 more than spec but they had been run excessively! Bike should have had at least 5 topends! Piston skirt only had minor wear along with the nikasil plating. Cyl could have been cleaned and a oversize piston put in but when the ringland broke it scared the cyl wall. PV was fairly clean and still worked but was sticky. Put a new topend on the bike and it is still running. As far as saws go I have only had 2 of mine apart. 1 372 totally exploded the piston as it was heavily worked and very weak. Kevin fixed that one for me and it is still running the OEM cylinder. I pulled my 357 apart and cleaned the ports up and deleted the base gasket. No measurable wear any place and clean on the inside. Guessing 300 tanks of fuel+. Sold saw to a friend and it still runs great. [The one I should not have sold]. As far as the interceptor in sleds, pv and chambers have always looked clean and require very little maintenance. never measured any of them as they did not need to be torn down any farther. We also use Amsoil injector oil in our boats with good success. 2 300 HPDI's [most fussy engine Yamaha ever built] 1 250 HPDI and a 250 OX66. 1 of the 300's and the OX are modded. We used to run Yamalube and they required cleaning and alot of seafoam at least once a year. The 02 sensor in the OX was nasty with the Yamalube, with the Amsoil it has been good and only needs cleaned once every few years. We ran Yamalube in the race sleds and it was dirty in them also, protected good but dirty. Anyway sorry about the long post but this is just some of my past experience with Amsoil. Ran a bunch of Klotz products with varying success. R50 was a plug fouling SOB! Anyway just a FYI. CJ

You would have not gotten away with that with a YZ,CRor KX. KTM has real high quality pistons and cylinders.
What I found is I lost power around 100 hours and this was with running forged pistons only. I wouldn't take cast pistons this far with a CR or YZ 250. I also had several cr500's and with a forged piston they would run ridiculous long time. The above expiereance was alot of wide open sand riding, hill climbing, etc. Never messed around on single track for any amount of time despite riding around in the general area of the loose moose national enduro course in Marquette County on a regular basis.
In regards to yamalube marine oil. I used it in all NY boats at the commercial fishing lodge I owned. I had perfect luck with it in our yamaha outboards. I also used Amsoil HP injector in my personal boat for several seasons. Couldnt say it was even a little bit better than Yamalube so I switched back. These were all carb equipped outboards. The HPDI motor is an entire different deal and stresses oil much more than a carb equipped motor.

 

[North by Northwest]

Opti 2 needs to be kept in a warm spot in the winter it doesn't mix easily when cold because it isn't pre diluted like some oils.

You would have not gotten away with that with a YZ,CRor KX. KTM has real high quality pistons and cylinders.
What I found is I lost power around 100 hours and this was with running forged pistons only. I wouldn't take cast pistons this far with a CR or YZ 250. I also had several cr500's and with a forged piston they would run ridiculous long time. The above expiereance was alot of wide open sand riding, hill climbing, etc. Never messed around on single track for any amount of time despite riding around in the general area of the loose moose national enduro course in Marquette County on a regular basis.
In regards to yamalube marine oil. I used it in all NY boats at the commercial fishing lodge I owned. I had perfect luck with it in our yamaha outboards. I also used Amsoil HP injector in my personal boat for several seasons. Couldnt say it was even a little bit better than Yamalube so I switched back. These were all carb equipped outboards. The HPDI motor is an entire different deal and stresses oil much more than a carb equipped motor.

700 psig direct injection fuel charge , thats one turbulent fuel charge , I would love to see the fuel rail design characteristics ?

 

[North by Northwest]

Opti 2 can be a little difficult to mix in cold weather i recommend you keep it in a warm place till you need to use it.

All the 100 :1 rated prefix oils have very thick viscosity , something in the blend though helps to maintain the oil in suspension , much better than the past castor based oils which would fall out of suspension readily .

 

[bwalker]

700 psig direct injection fuel charge , thats one turbulent fuel charge , I would love to see the fuel rail design characteristics ?

HPDI was a real rube Goldberg setup with multiple fuel pumps etc.
The FICHT voice coil type injector system used by Evidrude was much more simple. I believe it was higher pressure too.