Solid Tipped Bar-VS-Sprocket Tip-VS- Replaceable Sprocket Tip

[RED-85-Z51]

I see all these bars..everywhere..

What gives?

What it is the purpose of a Solid nosed bar? Ive seen them, but never owned one, what are they useful for?

Only thing Ive ever had is Laminated Sprocket tipped bars, and typically, the bar gives up before the sprocket.

I now have a couple replaceable sprocket tipped bars..and they act the same way, sprocket never seems to wear out, just the rails gradually wear down over a long time.

I know one thing..you get over 18" and bars get pricey!!!!

 

[Urbicide]

The solid, or hard nosed bars are designed for cutting in extremely abrasive conditions where sand or other dirt would eat the bearings out of a sprocket nosed bar. The hard nosed bars usually have an alloy welded to the rails which is a harder material than the steel found in a regular bar.opcorn:

 

[Diesel JD]

Red the hardnose bars are ancient technology and there are a lot of guys here that will say they are no good for anything but boat anchors. In fact they have their place. You want to use them in very gritty abrasive conditions that would ruin a sprocketnose or rollernose. Honestly, I like the professional grade solid steel replaceable sprocketnose bars. Stihl, and the other big manufacturers claim that the sprocketnose will wear out many times before the bar, others here have had the same experience as you, bar is screwed by the time the sprocket is. What is for sure is that those solid steel pro bars with the replaceable noses will many times outlast the laminated bars (eg pro-lite, Rollomatic E standard) even if the sprocketnose wears about with the bar to the point that replacing it is not economical. Another word on the hardnoses. Since there is no sprocket or roller working with the saw, the chain tends to drag the tip, so you need to downsize a bit. For example a Stihl 044 can run up to a 32" sprocketnose but a 25" hardnose would be just right for the same saw. You also need to run the chain a bit looser on a hardnose, instead of having the bottom of the tie strap firmly contact the bar rail, you want it to just barely touch the bar rail on a hardnose.

 

[Justsaws]

Hard-nose bars are real good for frozen old grounded dirt covered crap wood. Large saw, short bar, carbide chain. No carbide chain, lots of filing in my future. Also good for below ground stump/root cutting. Any place you do not want to stick a good $60-250 sprocket bar. Also handy for ease of chain pitch selection.

Not real sure what I will do with the 42" hard-nose Mac bar. It makes my E.B.2.0 really nose heavy.

They do suck down the power. They can be tricky to tension. They are cheap and abundant in the used market. I use them a lot.