Metals406
Granfodder Runningsaw
Ted, he owns two businesses and has a family. . . YOU get all that too, then talk to me about time.
Some sawing, logging and skidding pics and videos ......
- Thread starter Slamm
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Ted, he owns two businesses and has a family. . . YOU get all that too, then talk to me about time.
I really do not care. in fact, I don't give a ####. . .
:biggrin: how bout them apples
:biggrin: how bout them apples
NORMZILLA44
Addicted to ArboristSite
Oh kid why do we bother, old slambo, can't take the slightest criticsm, or anything really. Get's his hackle's up real easy. Must be rodeo flasback's.
banshee67
Poulan Wild Thang
the only person you are fooling with that statement is yourself...
youve been up this guys ass about HIS company since the beginning of this thread, clearly you give many sh!ts about it,
stihl 440
Addicted to ArboristSite
056,
My god, you are an incensant little quirp. We were having problems getting a clutch that will hold it. This is why it got sent to Terry. The freaking crankshaft is brown and blue, that indicates a problem that I don't want to deal with, is that fine with you???? I will ask nicely, would you please remove your head from your rearend, and not post in this thread anymore, you provide very, very little by way of intelligence and that is before you start drinking, after that it really goes to heck.
By the way, I took the clutch off all by myself in these photos.
Sam
Your oiler is toast...cluch clips break and whirl around in there for a little bit?...they must have...and created a hole in the oil pump in the top right hand corner of the pump itself like you have right there.
Slamm
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yes, this happened like 7 months ago, several things were fixed don't know what they were. The saw has been at Terry's since then, because I haven't needed it and didn't want it and I have recently asked for it back so I can do somemore testing and because I do really love that saw, so I'm getting it back. It was completed about 1 week after it was sent up there, thank you, Terry, at Sawzilla.
The deal about the clutch was just giving a reason as to why I can't test the 28" bar on a 660 right now ....... because I don't have one with me. This saw slips a stock clutch, we're going to try another one and keep track of it or monitor it, if it slips this clutch also, we are going to modify the clutch to handle it, then it should be fine.
But junior, detective troll who thinks he knows how to run my business, better than me, based off of a few photos and zero experience in my area, market, customer base or conditions, thinks hes got one over on me because I've got better things to do then waste my time fixing the cheapest items in my line of work. Plus Terry and I, wanted him to document whatever it is that he did to that saw, because it makes insane power, yet still just has normal compression, as in he can get a lot more out of it, and we didn't want to crush it or something and not have documentation of how it was ported. So Terry wanted it back too, so he could go over it again, since about 6 of us that have used many 660's stock and modded, think it is the best one we have used.
It just is what it is,
Sam
Stihlman441
Addicted to ArboristSite
Ha Sam when ya say modify the clutch what do ya mean ?.
Thats the thing you have a modded ported saw you tend to sharpen and set up ya chain more agressively and something has to suffer and one of them is the clutch.
Thats the thing you have a modded ported saw you tend to sharpen and set up ya chain more agressively and something has to suffer and one of them is the clutch.
Slamm
Addicted to ArboristSite
We have not modded the clutch at this time, this saw will likely be a novelty for me to run and I know how to operate it to keep it within the holding abilities of a stock clutch. The breakage happened when one of the least skilled cutters was given this saw to use, as the more experienced cutters new better to just use the Modded 441's, LOL. Anyways, the clutch had seen some abuse up to the point of that day, but it was run hard that day, by someone who didn't know that just because the motor is free reving doesn't mean the chain is completely locked up and it did the aforementioned and photo'd damage.
I personally had this saw, slipping its clutch at the end of the first day with a 28" bar on it, cutting around a bunch of 50"+ Pin Oaks along the Ohio River. I have never had a saw due that, but you could start to get hamfisted with the thing and the chain would either slow down or stop, while the motor started to take off with the RPM's. Needless to say, after that usually either Bert or I was the only one that used it, and you had to cut to the holding power of the clutch not to the stalling of the engine.
We're going to try a new clutch and see how it goes again, if it doesn't work, and after I refresh my memory with the pro's and con's of running a modded 660 against the modded 441's, we'll adjust the clutch as needed, if needed.
Sam
I personally had this saw, slipping its clutch at the end of the first day with a 28" bar on it, cutting around a bunch of 50"+ Pin Oaks along the Ohio River. I have never had a saw due that, but you could start to get hamfisted with the thing and the chain would either slow down or stop, while the motor started to take off with the RPM's. Needless to say, after that usually either Bert or I was the only one that used it, and you had to cut to the holding power of the clutch not to the stalling of the engine.
We're going to try a new clutch and see how it goes again, if it doesn't work, and after I refresh my memory with the pro's and con's of running a modded 660 against the modded 441's, we'll adjust the clutch as needed, if needed.
Sam
Slamm
Addicted to ArboristSite
Here is some of the landing from today, haven't been working much lately, just got back to it Monday, Tuesday and Today.
Filled the landing at about 2:30pm today, then it started pouring rain, but I have everything I cut out of the woods.
I was skidding with the modded 260 on the back of the skidder to top or limb trees that got skipped or missed. I was bored and decided to drop this ash with it for the giggles of it, as it was left for some reason. Always make sure you have enough saw, LOL. I think it cuts pretty good. 3/8" Full Skip Semi-chisel on a 20" bar. Probably could have got it down quicker if I used both hands, but didn't have an extra hand for the stop watch, as my left hand was running the camera and my left foot was pushing brush out of the way. I don't think that this is a good video for teaching the proper way of dropping trees, LOL.
Topping a different tree with the Modded 260.
Sam
Filled the landing at about 2:30pm today, then it started pouring rain, but I have everything I cut out of the woods.
I was skidding with the modded 260 on the back of the skidder to top or limb trees that got skipped or missed. I was bored and decided to drop this ash with it for the giggles of it, as it was left for some reason. Always make sure you have enough saw, LOL. I think it cuts pretty good. 3/8" Full Skip Semi-chisel on a 20" bar. Probably could have got it down quicker if I used both hands, but didn't have an extra hand for the stop watch, as my left hand was running the camera and my left foot was pushing brush out of the way. I don't think that this is a good video for teaching the proper way of dropping trees, LOL.
Topping a different tree with the Modded 260.
Sam
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Stihlman441
Addicted to ArboristSite
Good work there Sam,i like the one hand on each felling nice.
Slamm
Addicted to ArboristSite
Good work there Sam,i like the one hand on each felling nice.
LOL, I need to get a little tripod for the camera. They don't weigh very much and some are small. I'm tired of trying to find a branch or stump to balance the camera on target.
Sam
Bret4207
ArboristSite Guru
I don't normally have the patience to get past page one of any thread. I made it to pg 6 and intend to come back! Great thread Sam, I'm going to take a look at that winch rope. I'm more of a horse logger but I have a small winch for the tractors and small dozer that 3 pt mounted and the D4 needs a line too.
Very nice to see I'm no the only guy that cuts then off at ground level if I can.
Very nice to see I'm no the only guy that cuts then off at ground level if I can.
Slamm
Addicted to ArboristSite
Thanks, I have found the Amsteel to be very helpful and profitable over the long haul.
As to the stump height, as owner and operator of the skidders, plus I also cut, I can't stand driving around stumps that are cut high, when if they aren't rotten should have been much lower, which increases footage and isn't any harder to do. I take a knee and rest while I'm cutting low stumps a lot of times. High stumps are hard on skidders and slow you down big time when you have to go around them or ram the stump into your axles and belly pans and/or risk log breakage because you went around one and then bound up the skidded logs on it and lock the machine up or break/damage the logs.
Plus it just looks bad.
Sam
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Bret4207
ArboristSite Guru
I've only made it to page 10 now, but I don't see any rock in the pics so far. That's one things we have lots of is rock. It' not unusual to start cutting into some big old hard maple and hit a hunk of ledge up in the middle of it. That's when I cut high stumps!
Slamm
Addicted to ArboristSite
After working on another project I had a few hours to go cut and made a few videos of it. Don't bother with whining about the first few, as I had a bar that was trued up and gone over by a company, only to have the sprocket go out on me within about the first 3-5 trees, if you look close you can see the smoke every now and then. So I had to stop and ride 1/2 back out to landing and swap bars and then talked to the trucker. I left two, new Lite Bars back down in Kentucky, and my first two need the bar rails closed, but I don't have a rail closer that will budge a Stihl rail, got one from Bailey's and stripped the threads trying to get it to close Stihl ES rails. It will close Oregon and GB's, but I haven't had any luck with the Stihl bars on this, might be operator error, LOL. If I can't find another heavier one, I'll just make one.
I'll try to narrate the videos some, but I gotta get out and start cutting this afternoon, so don't have too much time. Trucks are coming tomorrow morning to get piles of logs.
The videos are all in order of when they were taken, and for what its worth, this is my disclaimer, for or those that know better than to do some of the dumb things that I do, don't be a dumb nut and spout off at the keyboard. Everyone already knows you are better than me, I'm just making some videos. These are not training videos, if you don't know better than to do some of the dumb things that I do, then don't watch them, certainly don't take anything away from them in the form of higher learning, as always, I video the good and bad of what happens, and post both.
Note the smoking sprocket tip, at that point it was a sprocket tipped bar, acting like a hardnose.
Here I cut two trees down, but hung the second one up on a little tree, failure, LOL.
Here is just a basic drop of an average ash for this timber (Different Bar).
Here is where I start to get into some better trees, farther back on the property. This is two soft maples.
This video is just showing some of the pattern that I'm cutting. It shows the last two video'd maples and their location and then some others that I cut after them. I'm trying to work a pattern that doesn't top myself in, while keeping the skidders in mind and how they will get to them and clean up the mess. Also there is a tree stand to the left of this video that I obviously can't hit and it provided some issue as several of the trees wanted to go towards it.
This is that bigger maple that wanted to fall on the ATV and me in the last video. I finally had made some space for it to drop. You might can tell in the other video it is leaning very hard with all branches on the lean side, so a lot of weight to deal with in one direction.
This is just an explaination of how/why I cut that last larger maple the way I did. I don't know all of the fancy terms for certain cuts, I just cut them, and have found this works.
Just a basic cut.
Later,
Sam
I'll try to narrate the videos some, but I gotta get out and start cutting this afternoon, so don't have too much time. Trucks are coming tomorrow morning to get piles of logs.
The videos are all in order of when they were taken, and for what its worth, this is my disclaimer, for or those that know better than to do some of the dumb things that I do, don't be a dumb nut and spout off at the keyboard. Everyone already knows you are better than me, I'm just making some videos. These are not training videos, if you don't know better than to do some of the dumb things that I do, then don't watch them, certainly don't take anything away from them in the form of higher learning, as always, I video the good and bad of what happens, and post both.
Note the smoking sprocket tip, at that point it was a sprocket tipped bar, acting like a hardnose.
Here I cut two trees down, but hung the second one up on a little tree, failure, LOL.
Here is just a basic drop of an average ash for this timber (Different Bar).
Here is where I start to get into some better trees, farther back on the property. This is two soft maples.
This video is just showing some of the pattern that I'm cutting. It shows the last two video'd maples and their location and then some others that I cut after them. I'm trying to work a pattern that doesn't top myself in, while keeping the skidders in mind and how they will get to them and clean up the mess. Also there is a tree stand to the left of this video that I obviously can't hit and it provided some issue as several of the trees wanted to go towards it.
This is that bigger maple that wanted to fall on the ATV and me in the last video. I finally had made some space for it to drop. You might can tell in the other video it is leaning very hard with all branches on the lean side, so a lot of weight to deal with in one direction.
This is just an explaination of how/why I cut that last larger maple the way I did. I don't know all of the fancy terms for certain cuts, I just cut them, and have found this works.
Just a basic cut.
Later,
Sam
Slamm
Addicted to ArboristSite
Here are four videos of me just bucking up logs. Not very exciting, you could just pour a can of paint in the yard and go watch it dry. I can't get one video of a bunch of logs getting cut. If it ever uploads, I'll post it.
Sam
Sam
Metals406
Granfodder Runningsaw
That saw spools down like a dang 2-stroke dirt bike.
Thanks for taking the time to make all these videos Sam!
Thanks for taking the time to make all these videos Sam!
Stihlman441
Addicted to ArboristSite
Nice work there Sam with the vids and thanks for sharing,is that the 441 you pulled apart the other day,the idle low end dint sound real good.So what do those logs end up as,house building lumber,chips ?.
Cheers
Cheers
Slamm
Addicted to ArboristSite
Read nothing into the idle of this saw. It is modded and has a minor issue with the idle, I/we have known about for sometime, when the weather gets cooler, it idles high or wierd and there is only one fix for it, and I know what it is, just haven't done it yet. It was fixed on the other similiarly modded 441's and they have no issue. This saw is tuned about good as can be, it just does that.
Andrew, no it isn't the one I have torn down, will probably get that one back together this weekend. I needed some Yamabond and didn't have time to get any, until yesterday. No damage was found, but sure learned a lot about the Modded 441's in the process.
Karen, showed up and saved the day or weekend ......................... she brought me two new shiny 28" Lite Bars. In those videos, I'm using old ES bars that I had Chainbar.com rebuild or true up. I'm not ashamed to say that I don't really want to fell trees, if I don't have the Lite Bars, LOL. I swear they came straight from heaven, LOL.
As for a product review. Here is where I stand on the Lite Bars, they are awesome. In using my first two, on two different Modded 441's and a Modded 660, I dropped around 100,000 bdft. In that period, I had to file one minor burr on both bars top and bottom. I flipped them and treated them just like any other bar, or probably abused them more because I can swing them harder when whacking brush and vines out of the way. In this period I used 2 chains and they are getting low on life, as in the drivers are getting a little narrow, but the cutters still have enough life. On Monday of this week, at pretty much the same time, both Older Lite bars could not provide good service due to the fact that the rails were worn out to the point of needing to be narrowed and would just stall out in the cut. I could have put a new chain on them and kept going, but they really need to have the rails narrowed. Hence the switch to the heavier ES bars, because like a moron, I left my Lite bars in Kentucky.
One person has commented on that seemed a little early, but I don't think so, and we must remember that I'm cutting in a creek bottom that floods once or twice a year. There is silt behind the bark of every tree I cut here, as high as 4 feet up the stump, so every stump cut has dirt in it. I don't think the rails are soft because very little was presented when they get the burrs on the side up by the sprocket tip, actually less of a burr than any bar I have used. Without a Rockwell Tester, I can't prove it, but I feel the Lite bars are actually a little harder than the ES bars, they certainly aren't softer.
I am happy with the life, but I honestly think the problem if there is a problem is lack of oil flow. I have the higher output oilers on both of those modded 441's, but they only drink 2/3 of a tank of oil at the most, which might be enough during normal, clean cutting with a 28" bar, but not enough to flush out the dirt I'm getting into on basically every cut. Need to perform that simple/cheap oiler modd and see if I can get more oil to them and get it down to one tank of oil per tank of gas.
Another issue, has anyone used the Woodman Pro or Silvey rail closers to close Stihl ES bars or Lite Bar rails. I have used the Woodsman Pro rail closer with easy success on Oregan and GB bars without issue, but I can't get it to close the Stihl rails, they just spring back open, if they ever moved to begin with. I'm at the point where I have stripped out the "closer's" adjustment screw and have to get a new one, and I use all Stihl bars at this point, so I need a rail closer that will actually work on them. So far my research has netted nothing by way of beefer models. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Sam
Andrew, no it isn't the one I have torn down, will probably get that one back together this weekend. I needed some Yamabond and didn't have time to get any, until yesterday. No damage was found, but sure learned a lot about the Modded 441's in the process.
Karen, showed up and saved the day or weekend ......................... she brought me two new shiny 28" Lite Bars. In those videos, I'm using old ES bars that I had Chainbar.com rebuild or true up. I'm not ashamed to say that I don't really want to fell trees, if I don't have the Lite Bars, LOL. I swear they came straight from heaven, LOL.
As for a product review. Here is where I stand on the Lite Bars, they are awesome. In using my first two, on two different Modded 441's and a Modded 660, I dropped around 100,000 bdft. In that period, I had to file one minor burr on both bars top and bottom. I flipped them and treated them just like any other bar, or probably abused them more because I can swing them harder when whacking brush and vines out of the way. In this period I used 2 chains and they are getting low on life, as in the drivers are getting a little narrow, but the cutters still have enough life. On Monday of this week, at pretty much the same time, both Older Lite bars could not provide good service due to the fact that the rails were worn out to the point of needing to be narrowed and would just stall out in the cut. I could have put a new chain on them and kept going, but they really need to have the rails narrowed. Hence the switch to the heavier ES bars, because like a moron, I left my Lite bars in Kentucky.
One person has commented on that seemed a little early, but I don't think so, and we must remember that I'm cutting in a creek bottom that floods once or twice a year. There is silt behind the bark of every tree I cut here, as high as 4 feet up the stump, so every stump cut has dirt in it. I don't think the rails are soft because very little was presented when they get the burrs on the side up by the sprocket tip, actually less of a burr than any bar I have used. Without a Rockwell Tester, I can't prove it, but I feel the Lite bars are actually a little harder than the ES bars, they certainly aren't softer.
I am happy with the life, but I honestly think the problem if there is a problem is lack of oil flow. I have the higher output oilers on both of those modded 441's, but they only drink 2/3 of a tank of oil at the most, which might be enough during normal, clean cutting with a 28" bar, but not enough to flush out the dirt I'm getting into on basically every cut. Need to perform that simple/cheap oiler modd and see if I can get more oil to them and get it down to one tank of oil per tank of gas.
Another issue, has anyone used the Woodman Pro or Silvey rail closers to close Stihl ES bars or Lite Bar rails. I have used the Woodsman Pro rail closer with easy success on Oregan and GB bars without issue, but I can't get it to close the Stihl rails, they just spring back open, if they ever moved to begin with. I'm at the point where I have stripped out the "closer's" adjustment screw and have to get a new one, and I use all Stihl bars at this point, so I need a rail closer that will actually work on them. So far my research has netted nothing by way of beefer models. Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Sam
Sam, keep the videos coming. I don't have time to watch them all right now but have watched the first half. I understand your disclaimers; nevertheless, the first video is a good example to show newbies why you shouldn't hang out at the tree to watch it fall. Ron
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