Son gased my brand new MS180

[Maintenance supervisor]

keep in mind that the MS180 is not a made in Germany saw to begin with, there are a few good suppliers of that model for rebuilding.
https://www.hlsproparts.com/Hyway-S...oJROOMaN4qaGLfhCgNPq_xBk9zQMHG2xoC_kEQAvD_BwE

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

I've never had a bad experience with the Dukes parts and it's a small shop in Pennsylvania with great people running it. Honestly these parts are probably better than the original.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2850378400...Bw5Yr3Ghvr2rDA%3D%3D|ampid:PL_CLK|clp:2332490

 

[cscltd]

I've never had a bad experience with the Dukes parts and it's a small shop in Pennsylvania with great people running it. Honestly these parts are probably better than the original.

Honestly, no they are not better than OEM
go to same place you bought saw from to get new original cylinder kit.
or stihlusa.com and put in postal code in dealer locator
I would take a meteor cylinder kit in place of Oem if big cost difference or at very least hyway one- but all fail compared to original

 

[Digital_Dad]

Honestly, no they are not better than OEM
go to same place you bought saw from to get new original cylinder kit.
or stihlusa.com and put in postal code in dealer locator
I would take a meteor cylinder kit in place of Oem if big cost difference or at very least hyway one- but all fail compared to original

I took your advice, I called two Stihl dist's near me each 10 miles in oposite directions, One was 89 plus tax for a cylinder kit and the other(the one I bought my saw from) was 79. So I ordered the parts and will put it back together when they get here. I will probably need help so I'm sure I'll be back asking questions.

 

[eb20]

those connecting rod bearings weren't getting oil either. Put a crankshaft and con rod on your parts list. You will see why everybody is suggesting not trying to fix it.

 

[eb20]

oops, too late. :<)

 

[Digital_Dad]

oops, too late. :<)

You must not know this particular engine, there are no connecting rod bearings, the rod, crank bearing and crank are in excellent condition. No scaring, very tight, no play and smooth as glass. The rod bearing is a needle bearing and the crank bearings are sealed in this style engine. But I will take them up to the guys at the Stihl shop to look them over just to be sure.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

You must not know this particular engine, there are no connecting rod bearings, the rod, crank bearing and crank are in excellent condition. No scaring, very tight, no play and smooth as glass. The rod bearing is a needle bearing and the crank bearings are sealed in this style engine. But I will take them up to the guys at the Stihl shop to look them over just to be sure.

The crankshaft bearings don’t have covers on them - they’re not sealed. They need oil from the fuel mix. You may be getting confused with the oil seal which can be seen externally.

 

[Digital_Dad]

The crankshaft bearings don’t have covers on them - they’re not sealed. They need oil from the fuel mix. You may be getting confused with the oil seal which can be seen externally.

Ok, I will order new bearings and a rod/crankshaft. Looks like I have to add another 46.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Ok, I will order new bearings and a rod/crankshaft. Looks like I have to add another 46.

Honestly, as others have said, just buy a new machine. They’re cheap and you’ll be happier in the long run. Keep the current for parts if they break on the new one.

 

[Digital_Dad]

Honestly, as others have said, just buy a new machine. They’re cheap and you’ll be happier in the long run. Keep the current for parts if they break on the new one.

I got my new saw today? I am going to fix the first one to give to my son. And I have already spent money on parts so it's a little late. Plus I am finding it a little fun, it's an inevpensive project that if goes well will give my son a lot of use. But thanks for the good advice I was just a little too late to take it now.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

I got my new saw today? I am going to fix the first one to give to my son. And I have already spent money on parts so it's a little late. Plus I am finding it a little fun, it's an inevpensive project that if goes well will give my son a lot of use. But thanks for the good advice I was just a little too late to take it now.

ah sorry my apologies, I miss that part. Yep that’s great. New saw, old one as a project to learn on.

 

[Datsurb]

I have fixed quite a few of theese. The simplest way to go, is to buy a complete engine from ebay/ali/amazon, and install that. As many have mentioned, the cranck bearings usualy get coocked as well when scored. OEM is available but with all the parts you need, the totalt cost will be higher than a complete saw.
If you still want to repair, and gamle on the bearings, you probaly are able to reuse the cylinder as the OEM`s are quite tough. Use a fine grit (400/600) wet sandingpaper and start removing the metaltransfer from the piston. Do not work up and down in the cylinder, but side to side. Even better - in an X pattern. Just get a new piston with rings, cranck seals and slip that in there. Get new seals for the crank bearings and some liquid silicone gasket stuff for the bottom plate. Do NOT attempt to press in the seals, but put then in place as you mount the bottom plate. This route should set you back less than USD 15,-

Good luck

 

[muddy42]

As others have said, I wouldn't bother to repair this saw. I would guess that with that level of piston damage and melted rings, you are going to have deep scoring on the cylinder and possibly crank bearing and seal damage. If the saw was straight gassed from new, it will have never had any oil down there. The total cost of the parts will be more than a new saw. You can make the maths work for larger cc or rarer saws but not for the smaller cheaper ones.

 

[Oletrapper]

My son was doing some yard work cutting up a tree with a friend and were almost done. I had to leave for work, just for an hour, his friend's chainsaw quit running and he asked to borrow my brand new saw that I have never even started yet. I hesitated and tried to offer other options/suggestions but he kept coming back to wanting to use mine. So off to work I go. I get back and he tells me he has to buy me a new saw tomorrow because mine is shot. He filled it with straight gas, no oil, ran it until it stopped, almost a tank. I pulled the muffler and the piston is scarred up but will move, I did not try to start it.

I looked online and it seems it may be possible to buy various kits to "fix" it. Are there any guides on here? Does anyone have any suggestions on brands of parts to use or stay away from? Or certain places/vendors/people specifically to buy from or stay away from?

Any help would be great since I have never tried to do anything like this before.

I would let him buy you a new one. Keep the old and try to repair. You both will learn from the experience. JMHO OT

 

[Oletrapper]

He owes you a saw. Those are not worth fixing

Maybe not worth fixing but it is sure a lot of fun trying. Especially on a cold winter day in a nice warm shop with nothing else to do. jmho OT

 

[Oletrapper]

The back side of the piston look fine, I’d just reverse the piston and reassemble.

REALLY? LMAO ot

 

[Hulpio]

Son pays 70% because of living his life eyes and ears closed, dad pays 30% because did not provide adequate education. Now there is a new saw and old broken one.
On a windy and rainy winter evening dad and son gather together to warm and cosy garage and fix broken saw using parts dad bought. Now both have own saws.
I do not see a looser here.

 

[MudgeHollowBeaver]

" his friend's chainsaw quit running".... sharing the same gas can? Might be getting the chance to check out the insides of a second saw

 

[Jeekinz]

You guys saying to just buy a new saw must have deep pockets.

Looks like a oem engine is about $100, aftermarket under 40. I agree, the crank is most likely compromised either from lack of oil or debris, or both.