Specialty Tools Needed - Stihl 028, 038, 070/090

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All -

I've done a search and have found some details. Just want confirm.

Bottom line - I've recently become afflicted with CAD. And have purchased an 038, 070, and will pick up an 028 as well. I have a fairly well-equipped garage - large assortment of hand tools, plenty of air tools, welder, grinders, press, sandblaster, etc.

I'm also a big fan of buying quality tools, and if there's a tool that makes a job easier, that's all the excuse I need to pick one up.

Here's what I'm thinking I need (or at least want) -

-Piston stop tools - I'll need a few different ones based on spark plug size.

-Flywheel puller - Different ones for different saws, right?

-Case splitting tool - same for all, right?

-Tachometer - are any of the less expensive tachs accurate and reliable? The OEM Stihl tach I found was very expensive.

-Piston Ring Compressor - the inexpensive kits on eBay look like they should do the trick except when I upgrade the 070 to a 090 - need something that will work for 66 mm.

Thanks in advance for any info.

Scott
 
On Stihl saws the OEM flywheel pullers are the best, two different sizes between the smaller saws from the smallest like the 024 up to the 066 and MS equivalents, the larger one fro the 084-088 on up saws. A T37 Torx in both bits and T handle are a necessity for the more modern saws while the older Stihl saws used slot screws. The case splitters are not a one fits all tool but can often be bent/modified to make do to clear crank diameter and bearing to crank throw differences. A good tach will not be cheap but cheap ones do work somewhat reliably, many models have been tried and some work better than others for extended use by different members reporting in on them. A search will bring up many threads where they have been discussed and as for a ring compressor and flexible strip of material from thin aluminum or plastic can be cut and fashioned into a useful compressor, the factory made ones work great, I have several sets and also have a few I made myself, all get the job done.
 
If I were you I would find a "Special tools" tool box kit off eBay or from a defunct dealer auction. They have the thin shank T27 torx bit and T handle wrenches you'll need. Nobody makes a tougher drill T27 torx bit.... They are the bomb.....
All the other brands break off at the tip on a really tight screw.
The crankcase separators are expensive, but nice to have as well.
*
As far as ring compressors, IMO they are cumbersome and knock dirt and dust off as you are trying to stab the cylinder on the piston. I use my finger nails to compress the rings and use a gentle force so you can feel if there is anything binding. A slightly canted angle of the cylinder in relation to the piston will "work" the rings into the cylinder.
 
For the piston stop,
Stihl sells 2 (that I know of)
-a metal stop that threads in, and
-a plastic one that slides in.

From my experience; the metal one can dent the top of the cylinder when you have a stubborn flywheel/clutch. The plastic ones slowly break over time.

Personally, I use a piece of nylon recoil rope. Just cram as much of if it as you can into the cylinder through the spark plug hole. Be careful not to let the rope go into the exhaust port... ;)
 
3 piston stops
0000 893 5903
0000 893 5904
4221 893 5900

flywheel pullers
5910 890 4504
4133 893 0800

chain brake tool
1117 890 0900

hex drive t27 140mm
0812 540 1112

t handle t27 x 200mm
5910 890 2415

t handle 8mm x 200mm
5910 890 2420

piston ring clamp
0000 893 2600

piston holder
1108 893 4800

ignition tester
5910 850 4503

these should get you started. davhul just posted the new stihl tach edt 9 review here. the part number is included
http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/new-stihl-edt9-tach-just-came-in.304559/#post-6099534

there are very few saws stihl wants you to use a metal piston stop with. it would say so in the manual if it was ok. otherwise stick to the three above. the funnest tool is that chain brake spring tool. no kidding
 
I have a set of Wiha T-handle torx bits. Invauable for newer stuff. I bought a Dewalt interchangable Long bit T-handle set and is really cheap but does work for hex, slotted and phillips screws. I used it on my rebuild of the saw in my avatar. Worked fine.
 
I've never needed a piston stop. Use an impact gun or hammer and brass punch to loosen the clutch.
 
This will get you started with high quality T-Handles - Stihl branded T-handles are made by Wiha.
https://www.amazon.com/Complete-Set-Wiha-Chain-Tools/dp/B00470IW86

This works with a torque wrench, or other 3/8" drive tool
https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-77113-8-Inch-Socket-6-Inch/dp/B002QPX09U

These are the best Torx power bits I've ever used --- you can buy all of the stuff listed above from this same source as well, just look on their site.
https://www.kctoolco.com/wiha-74590-t27-x-152mm-torx-power-bit/
 
For the piston stop,
Stihl sells 2 (that I know of)
-a metal stop that threads in, and
-a plastic one that slides in.

From my experience; the metal one can dent the top of the cylinder when you have a stubborn flywheel/clutch. The plastic ones slowly break over time.

Personally, I use a piece of nylon recoil rope. Just cram as much of if it as you can into the cylinder through the spark plug hole. Be careful not to let the rope go into the exhaust port... ;)

Thanks for the details. Don't want to dent a piston.

I'm familiar with the rope trick from working on old V8's. Have a few musclecars and enjoy building engines and transmissions.

Thanks
 
I have broken the Stihl Torx bits off but have yet to break my Whia T handled bits yet, I have big hands and at times a bit ham fisted. The screws/bolts either come out or the tool fails, then the mig welder comes into play.

At 6'5" and 230 lbs, I can be a bit forceful at times, too!

I have a MIG as well, but find Kroil and some redneck ingenuity usually does the trick.
 
I've never needed a piston stop. Use an impact gun or hammer and brass punch to loosen the clutch.

I hear you on the impact. That's what I usually try first.

I have a few hammers; have added several since this picture was taken... On a related note, please excuse the shiny new Snap On Dead Blow ball peen's and the Thor copper/rawhide hammers. They were recent purchases at the time and all are suitably dirtied and scarred now.

 
This will get you started with high quality T-Handles - Stihl branded T-handles are made by Wiha.
https://www.amazon.com/Complete-Set-Wiha-Chain-Tools/dp/B00470IW86

This works with a torque wrench, or other 3/8" drive tool
https://www.amazon.com/Wiha-77113-8-Inch-Socket-6-Inch/dp/B002QPX09U

These are the best Torx power bits I've ever used --- you can buy all of the stuff listed above from this same source as well, just look on their site.
https://www.kctoolco.com/wiha-74590-t27-x-152mm-torx-power-bit/

Thanks, I've added these to my shopping list.

One question - I have a complete set of high-quality torx bits for 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2 ratchets. Do I need the T-handles, too? It only makes sense if space is tight and I won't be able to use a bit because of the socket end.
 
If I was you I'd buy the Wiha 9 piece Chainsaw hand tool set. Should be under $100US and their stuff is top quality. Trust me.....at least take a look at it on EBay or wherever.
 

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