Splitting/Chopping Tool Review Thread

[benp]

I hope you're not splitting those pieces on the ground, for two reasons.
1. the earth absorbs much of the energy that you've invested in accelerating the maul (a splitting-block mo-betta) ,
2. a maul is an edge tool, and rocks & such play hell with that.

Did you remove much of the bulges on either face about 1" behind the edge? If so, prolly not a great idea. They seem to be instrumental in pushing the splits apart, in their OEM finish.

You have no idea of how large of a splitting block I would have to drag around with me for that to work. For me it's not going to happen. If I was splitting smaller wood all the time then I could see it's benefit.

My wood is split right where it's cut. Be it in the woods, down at the log yard, or up near the piles. I have always done that. I'm not messing around with large rounds any more than I have to.

The Fiskars spends quite a bit of time in the ground from blow throughs. I touch it up all the time with a raker file. Works just fine.

The bulges are still there on the Council maul.

I only smoothed the finish, I wasn't doing an impersonation Porterhouse with Judge Smail's golf shoes.

 

[svk]

You have no idea of how large of a splitting block I would have to drag around with me for that to work. For me it's not going to happen.

I'm sorry but I'm LMFAO here visualizing Ron Johnson rolling a giant splitting block through the woods of northern MN so you can "correctly" split wood.

 

[zogger]

I'm sorry but I'm LMFAO here visualizing Ron Johnson rolling a giant splitting block through the woods of northern MN so you can "correctly" split wood.

A good field expedient one in the woods is to square off the raggedy end of the trunk where the felling cuts are. Doesn't need to be huge, a six inch cookie is fine. Use that as a block, raggedy side down, then just take it with you when you leave, after a few whacks of course. Done that a bunch.

 

[svk]

A good field expedient one in the woods is to square off the raggedy end of the trunk where the felling cuts are. Doesn't need to be huge, a six inch cookie is fine. Use that as a block, raggedy side down, then just take it with you when you leave, after a few whacks of course. Done that a bunch.

I try to flush cut when felling and square off that when splitting in the woods also. Makes a nice low splitting block.

But I also like lining up about 20 rounds on the driveway and just go down the line. Racks up a lot of splits in a hurry. Hit the dirt? Oh darn, touch it up with the grinder or a file. My tools are for using, not looking at or talking about.

 

[woodchuck357]

A good field expedient one in the woods is to square off the raggedy end of the trunk where the felling cuts are. Doesn't need to be huge, a six inch cookie is fine. Use that as a block, raggedy side down, then just take it with you when you leave, after a few whacks of course. Done that a bunch.

And what is the cookie sitting on? Most places it's the same dirt the round could have been setting on.

 

[Ambull01]

I think you've found the magic formula to efficient wood processing. Shhh, don't tell anyone lol

I should just throw the Fiskars away and noodle every round into splits. So much fun.

I like a splitting block for the reasons mentioned. I also split smaller (12 to 16 inch long) wood, so I like it elevated on a block. Block keeps me from hitting my leg with shorter length maul (X25 type) - hits the block instead, unless you really miss! JMHO

Keeping my eyes open for the right sized (golf cart? ATV? wheelbarrow?) tire for my sized wood!

Philbert

Amen! Just discovered how much of a difference splitting on a block vs the ground can make. Figured the ground would absorb some energy but didn't think it would make a huge difference. Placing the round on the ground lowers the strike point for me so I have longer to accelerate and seems like I'm able to use more leverage (i.e. bending knees at very end of strike to generate a bit more force).

I picked up a little tire from the back of a auto parts store but it's still a bit too big for most of my stuff.

 

[MechanicMatt]

Six inches is a beefie cookie..........

 

[zogger]

And what is the cookie sitting on? Most places it's the same dirt the round could have been setting on.

It is primarily as a protective layer so you don't hit dirt/rocks with the sharp edge of your whatever you are swinging. It does help somewhat with making the ground harder/firmer as well. Being the very largest piece on the tree (usually) anything else you flop on it to split will be smaller, so all your swings will be safely away from the dirt.

As to the physics why a splitting block makes for a firmer surface, can't tell ya in those terms, other than it does, tons of people have noticed this over the years. splitting blocks just seem to be firmer.

I do both, I split yesterday and today directly on the ground when making rounds small enough to pick up, BUT, I layered some thick branches down first where I was doing that. I didn't cut a splitting block, but the branches kept the mushy ground firmer for sure. After the first few whacks, they packed down then got stable and it was firmer.

Sorta like if you can, stuck in the mud, put whatever is handy under the tires, firms it up enough to get out.

 

[woodchuck357]

Like using tires to keep the splits from needing to be stood back up will also keep your tool from going all the way thru the round encourages harder strikes, using a block helps keep you from unconsiously holding back. That gives you the erroneous impression the block provides a solider support.

 

[Philbert]

using a block helps keep you from unconsiously holding back. That gives you the erroneous impression the block provides a solider support.

If your splitting block is larger than the round you are splitting, it spreads the weight like the footing under a foundation.

Philbert

 

[MechanicMatt]

I dunno woodchuck, I told hold back.......ever. I too believe the chopping block helps keep the splitting energy in the to be split piece. Kinda like a foundation for a house provides stability.....

 

[mikey517]

Spent another hour this morning splitting some silver maple with the Fiskar's and the CT. I have no horse in this race, and I'm not biased to either tool. The rounds were frozen and were 16"
and averaged 12" diameter.

I did 2 rounds each with each tool. All in all, the Fiskar's was easier to use; less effort to split the rounds, and it never stuck in the wood.
The CT did the job, but required more effort due to its weight and the repeated sticking in the round. And, as benp said, the CT split the wood, and the Fiskar's seemed to blow it apart.
For me, the CT will ride the truck with some wedges, and the Fiskar's will be the tool of choice for those morning splitting sessions to kill some time and get a workout.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Philbert]

Nice looking stacks.

I like the rope - I have used bungie cord and chain to hold the rounds together. Do you just tie a simple knot in the rope? Maybe need a big cord lock or spring clamp!

Philbert

 

[Ambull01]

If your splitting block is larger than the round you are splitting, it spreads the weight like the footing under a foundation.

Philbert

Just read this for the fifth time, seriously lol. Could you explain this to me Barney style? What does it matter the size of your splitting block? As long as the block isn't so tiny that you drive it into the ground with a strike, not sure it makes a difference. Or am I misreading the whole sentence? If I am, I apologize. Been stuck on a problem at work all day so my brain is kind of fried right now.

 

[benp]

Spent another hour this morning splitting some silver maple with the Fiskar's and the CT. I have no horse in this race, and I'm not biased to either tool. The rounds were frozen and were 16"
and averaged 12" diameter.

I did 2 rounds each with each tool. All in all, the Fiskar's was easier to use; less effort to split the rounds, and it never stuck in the wood.
The CT did the job, but required more effort due to its weight and the repeated sticking in the round. And, as benp said, the CT split the wood, and the Fiskar's seemed to blow it apart.
For me, the CT will ride the truck with some wedges, and the Fiskar's will be the tool of choice for those morning splitting sessions to kill some time and get a workout.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for the review Mikey!

Like Philbert said, good looking stacks of wood.

I am warming up to a portable splitting block like what Zogger mentioned. 20" diameter and 6" thick wouldn't be too much of a pain in the butt to drag around and I think that would have me covered pretty well.

 

[Philbert]

Just read this for the fifth time, seriously lol. Could you explain this to me Barney style? What does it matter the size of your splitting block? As long as the block isn't so tiny that you drive it into the ground with a strike, not sure it makes a difference.

This shows it with weight, but the same thing would apply with impact force. It is spread over a wider area. It is why we use footings under building foundations, and use wider tires on mud.
If you drive a nail with a hammer into a 2X4, the small diameter of the nail will penetrate. If you strike the same 2X4 with the same hammer, and the same force, the hammer might dent the wood, but will not penetrate.

Striking firewood rounds on soft ground, the round will be driven into the dirt. On a broader base, it will penetrate less. If you use the same base, in the same location, for multiple rounds, the earth below will become compacted and 'give' less than if you struck a new spot for each piece.

Hope this helps.

(Please supply your own purple dinosaur music).

Philbert

 

[zogger]

Thanks for the review Mikey!

Like Philbert said, good looking stacks of wood.

I am warming up to a portable splitting block like what Zogger mentioned. 20" diameter and 6" thick wouldn't be too much of a pain in the butt to drag around and I think that would have me covered pretty well.

An alternative to that is just something like 2xbig pressure treated offcuts. Use them for splitting blocks or as a foot under a truck jack if needed, etc.

The one I was mentioning is a one use usually, right there where you fell the tree, then bust it up, tote it home. Next tree, cut another one. A butt end slice/cookie will usually always be bigger than anything else on the tree.

 

[Philbert]

A butt end . . will usually always be bigger than anything else . . .

You saying someone's got a big butt?

Philbert

 

[Ambull01]

View attachment 386962
This shows it with weight, but the same thing would apply with impact force. It is spread over a wider area. It is why we use footings under building foundations, and use wider tires on mud.
If you drive a nail with a hammer into a 2X4, the small diameter of the nail will penetrate. If you strike the same 2X4 with the same hammer, and the same force, the hammer might dent the wood, but will not penetrate.

Striking firewood rounds on soft ground, the round will be driven into the dirt. On a broader base, it will penetrate less. If you use the same base, in the same location, for multiple rounds, the earth below will become compacted and 'give' less than if you struck a new spot for each piece.

Hope this helps.

(Please supply your own purple dinosaur music).

Philbert

Emmm, kind of clears things up. Should say clear as mud lol. I totally understand the weight distribution part. The force part on a large splitting block not so much. Just not sure how much of a difference it makes. I don't think I would be able to drive a 12" splitting block into the ground much further than a 24" block.

 

[zogger]

View attachment 386962
This shows it with weight, but the same thing would apply with impact force. It is spread over a wider area. It is why we use footings under building foundations, and use wider tires on mud.
If you drive a nail with a hammer into a 2X4, the small diameter of the nail will penetrate. If you strike the same 2X4 with the same hammer, and the same force, the hammer might dent the wood, but will not penetrate.

Striking firewood rounds on soft ground, the round will be driven into the dirt. On a broader base, it will penetrate less. If you use the same base, in the same location, for multiple rounds, the earth below will become compacted and 'give' less than if you struck a new spot for each piece.

Hope this helps.

(Please supply your own purple dinosaur music).

Philbert

Good illustration

I will also add, this is moot if the ground is frozen haerd, or opposite summer drought and dry hard, not really needed unless one wants to protect from hitting dirt/rocks.

I know in the winter in chillblain zone I have frequently skipped the block and split right there on the snow covered frozen ground, but man..been a long time ago now.

As to splitting on concrete like a driveway..I ain't got one! Nearest concrete to me I could split on is..uhh..don't know, miles..I have gravel roads, clay with chert packed down. It will with no doubt chip or dull your tool splitting on it.

Could go out in the street on the blacktop...proly not a swift idea though....

This Georgia clay is just amazing, all it takes is a little bit wet, soup, dry a little bit, rock hard and dusty. Well, call it brick hard, used to be a huge business around here in ye aulden days making bricks.