Splitting/Chopping Tool Review Thread

[CTYank]

Ya, it and the Fiskars are much closer to a proper shape for a sharp swung wedge on a stick. These splitters and mauls with the flared out design, like a chopping axe..there's no point to, it's marketing "optics". They don't need to "look" like an axe, they need to function as a splitter and the shape is what it is then, a big splitting wedge. Notice they don't put axe flares on wedges they sell? Hang it on a stick though, "Oh noes, it needs to look like an axe now"!! Fail..marketing....

I'd like to know what you are calling "flared out". Clues would help.

Maybe it's the difference between N GA and S CT wood, but I find it real difficult to get any of my mauls stuck, either your "epic fail" Wetterlings/Hultafors head shape or the fully flat face of the Mueller or the bulges of the Council. All those varieties work well for me. All have almost exactly the same taper at the edge.

Seems to me, an effective head shape has a couple of things to do well:
1. get the (sharp) edge between fibers on either side.
2. move the fibers apart without excessive frictional losses or exploding them at innocent bystanders. (Can it, Bob.)
3. keep the fibers sufficiently spread so the ends of the split faces can't hit the handle.

It's interesting to see how different paths can lead to the same goal.

 

[Ambull01]

Quick question. How much of a difference does it make to remove the back shoulder of a maul's blade?

 

[zogger]

I'd like to know what you are calling "flared out". Clues would help.

Maybe it's the difference between N GA and S CT wood, but I find it real difficult to get any of my mauls stuck, either your "epic fail" Wetterlings/Hultafors head shape or the fully flat face of the Mueller or the bulges of the Council. All those varieties work well for me. All have almost exactly the same taper at the edge.

Seems to me, an effective head shape has a couple of things to do well:
1. get the (sharp) edge between fibers on either side.
2. move the fibers apart without excessive frictional losses or exploding them at innocent bystanders. (Can it, Bob.)
3. keep the fibers sufficiently spread so the ends of the split faces can't hit the handle.

It's interesting to see how different paths can lead to the same goal.

The curved part on both ends of the edge on an axe is what I am referring to. Not needed for a splitter and IMO most likely counter productive to more efficient splitting.

And then on the husky/wetterlings, decent enough wedge shape to start with, but then they come up from the edge and they have a triangle ground out, then a center raised rib going up the blade. I have no idea what that is for, but the center rib is exerting a lot more force in a small area, trying to split the wood with a 1/4 inch wide piece of steel. It's loony.

Real good for you if you don't or rarely get a maul or axe stuck! I do sometimes and don't like it. I also fully admit I just don't have the steam I had years ago, heck, I don't have the same steam as when I joined this site, and quite a bit less since I got sick last summer before the Georgia GTG. I'm sure this has a lot to do with it.

 

[svk]

Anyone try one of these?

 

[svk]

And ironically the guy who spends the most time talking about splitting tools on here won't post a picture of his fleet...what gives?

 

[mr.finn]

What a great thread!!

 

[spike60]

That Wilton tool looks interesting, and will probably split like most 8# mauls. Looks like they placed a premium on the styling as opposed to engineering with the 2 tone head and all. Doesn't make it function any better, but allows them to charge a higher price, cause if it looks cool, people will pay more. A little bit of that marketing magic that zogger was referring to. I see the $100.79 is crossed out, but what was the actual selling price?

 

[svk]

I see the $100.79 is crossed out, but what was the actual selling price?

92.50-95 bucks depending on seller now. With free shipping.

 

[Ironworker]

I got this out of a plow and hearth catalog on sale for about thirty bucks and like the way it splits, I like it better than my maul and fiskars x27.

 

[svk]

View attachment 381135
I got this out of a plow and hearth catalog on sale for about thirty bucks and like the way it splits, I like it better than my maul and fiskars x27.

Make and model?

 

[Ironworker]

Make and model?

Don't remember, I only bought it cause it was on sale and didn't think much of it at the time till I started using it.

 

[CR888]

Kool thread Spike!! lt is nice to get unbiased opinions from those that use mauls and a variety of them. Keep em coming!!

 

[dancan]

I don't have a group shot of my firewood tools but a few words on this one .

http://www.garant.com/html/en/produits/produit.php?idProduit=1008140&typeProduit=famille

Works ok and gets the job done , I bought it at a close-out sale for 30$ but it sells for close to 70$ up here .
I don't like the springiness that the handle has but being fibreglass it lives fulltime outside .
I think that it was worth the 30$ but more than that I'd be regretting it .
I may take the grinder and a zip wheel to it and give it and another 6lb maul with a wooden handle the Zogger mod just for shytes and giggles .
Wooden handles feel the best to me and the Fiskars handles a close second , not warming up to this one at all except for it being maintenance free till I break it .

 

[zogger]

I don't have a group shot of my firewood tools but a few words on this one .

http://www.garant.com/html/en/produits/produit.php?idProduit=1008140&typeProduit=famille

Works ok and gets the job done , I bought it at a close-out sale for 30$ but it sells for close to 70$ up here .
I don't like the springiness that the handle has but being fibreglass it lives fulltime outside .
I think that it was worth the 30$ but more than that I'd be regretting it .
I may take the grinder and a zip wheel to it and give it and another 6lb maul with a wooden handle the Zogger mod just for shytes and giggles .
Wooden handles feel the best to me and the Fiskars handles a close second , not warming up to this one at all except for it being maintenance free till I break it .

Hey cool, do a review with the mod. Drove right by the machine shop and plumb forgot to go in and ask if they would cut a maul head down for me today..rats...need to scrounge one up though, need to hit the scrapyard. I have some loose axe heads but no 8lb maul heads.

 

[wap13]

Anyone try one of these?

View attachment 380993

I have not tried that maul but I do have a couple 4lb wilton hammers. I would never buy that maul unless I was in to wearing gloves while splitting wood. And even then the texture of the handle would make it hard to slide your hand down the handle when swinging the maul. Not that I use that type of swing every time but I much prefer a smooth handle, and wood over synthetic. I would have to assume the metallurgy is good considering the brand but the handle will keep me from ever owning one.

 

[zogger]

Ox head 6.6lb maul
Stihl/Ox head splitting axe
Snow & Nealley Hudson Bay camp axe and my no name wedge beater.
Only splitting pine,fir, and tamarack here, but no complaints.

Which is your favorite?

 

[benp]

I'd like to know what you are calling "flared out". Clues would help.

Maybe it's the difference between N GA and S CT wood, but I find it real difficult to get any of my mauls stuck, either your "epic fail" Wetterlings/Hultafors head shape or the fully flat face of the Mueller or the bulges of the Council. All those varieties work well for me. All have almost exactly the same taper at the edge.

Seems to me, an effective head shape has a couple of things to do well:
1. get the (sharp) edge between fibers on either side.
2. move the fibers apart without excessive frictional losses or exploding them at innocent bystanders. (Can it, Bob.)
3. keep the fibers sufficiently spread so the ends of the split faces can't hit the handle.

It's interesting to see how different paths can lead to the same goal.

I do believe this is what Zog is talking about by flared out.

I just did a Google search of Fiskars original Super Splitter and this picture is one that came up. It is from here.

X27 on left and original super split on right.

 

[Ambull01]

I do believe this is what Zog is talking about by flared out.

I just did a Google search of Fiskars original Super Splitter and this picture is one that came up. It is from here.

X27 on left and original super split on right.

So the closest axe is the original right? That's the one I have. Shaped very much like a wedge isn't it? The one in the back looks more like the typical axe head.

 

[benp]

If yours says X27, then you got the one on the left.

I was thinking the same thing until I saw that picture.

 

[svk]

Has anyone tested out the new Husqvarna splitting axe (X25 knock off) yet? Curious as to how it stacks up against the 25.