I still have the envelope with the veneer, I'll get it on there at some point, I promise!
Splitting/Chopping Tool Review Thread
- Thread starter spike60
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
I suppose production costs decrease significantly if they use the same head.
I'm curious how many folks are still using the original "super splitter", not to be confused with the all black X-27 clone "super splitting axe"? I know zogger really liked his.
I'm curious how many folks are still using the original "super splitter", not to be confused with the all black X-27 clone "super splitting axe"? I know zogger really liked his.
Its funny, I thought the Fiskars limited edition axe I bought was basically an X25 in different dress. But its obviously not as it has a smaller size bit.
The 365 year anniverary axe is not the best as a splitter but I got it for my girl to use...even though she dont really use it. But its good for large kindling. The S2800 with the same length handle as the X27 would be a pretty good composite splitting axe. I think that red axe of SVK's would be good with its long handle, I bet it works well.
The 365 year anniverary axe is not the best as a splitter but I got it for my girl to use...even though she dont really use it. But its good for large kindling. The S2800 with the same length handle as the X27 would be a pretty good composite splitting axe. I think that red axe of SVK's would be good with its long handle, I bet it works well.
Streblerm
Addicted to ArboristSite
I like my x27 I have not split a ton with it but in the right wood it's awesome. I like the long handle, I'm not a tall guy but I like to keep that head away from my toes. Plus my maul and sledge are a 32 inch handle so longer is more familiar.
Long handle definitely safer.
Can you get a shot of the top of the heads of those? I'm interested to see as it seems to have less taper.
watchamakalit
ArboristSite Operative
No need the newer ones with longer handles have a much narrower head than the original super split. Probably an inch overall width difference and I think it makes a noticeable difference.
Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk
Edit: I forgot the obligatory axe ****. So I'll double down.
That's why I'm asking to see a pic so we can have a reference
I will say that the x27 has a soft blade on it. I have some dings in it from wood and tonight I split my round and missed the end of my splitting block once through the round, I did a good amount of swearing because when I hit the concrete it did a number on the edge.
Very sharp but soft. I'm assuming that being that sharp it's pretty thin and therefore dings easily. Still works like a champ though. I'll sharpen it this winter.
Very sharp but soft. I'm assuming that being that sharp it's pretty thin and therefore dings easily. Still works like a champ though. I'll sharpen it this winter.
Multifaceted
Firewood Hoarder, Axe Enthusiast
I'm actually quite the opposite for upright splitting implements, a shorter handle seems to be my preference lately, at least ever since I got the Helko Spaltaxt (28" haft, 4 lb head) - while a little unfamiliar at first, I've really grown on it. I think you'll love that Arvika, a very nice piece. Had one in my hands a few weeks back but couldn't walk out with it when my wife was there with me, ha ha ha
Split decision?
Longer handles - taller people, or wood on the ground.
Shorter handles - shorter people, and wood up on a block.
Philbert
IMO - Splitting wood up on a block adds an unnecessary amount of risk to the whole operation. Much safer to split blocks on the ground, with a safety log in front of the blocks. No risk of damaged shins that way. I have the long handled Super Splitting axe and a number of 4-8lb mauls. All my axes and splitters have long handles and I'm not that tall.
I must admit that the Super Splitting axe is well suited to "golf splitting" halved rounds into quarters. The light head and long handle make for a fast head speed that easily passes through half split rounds that tipped over and are lying down. Not a recommended technique - but I find myself using it regularly with the SS. Can't get the same head speed with a maul.
I must admit that the Super Splitting axe is well suited to "golf splitting" halved rounds into quarters. The light head and long handle make for a fast head speed that easily passes through half split rounds that tipped over and are lying down. Not a recommended technique - but I find myself using it regularly with the SS. Can't get the same head speed with a maul.
Trx250r180
Saw polisher
I googled the Helko axes ,looks very well made ,the wedge built in looks like will pop the wood apart very nice .I like the looks of the expedition model 4.5 lb .
You had an Arvika in your hands ? So i am guessing they are showing up in the states now ?
I can buy the Arvika direct from the Canadian distributor , but , I really don't need another axe ,,,, Seriously , I don't ,,, And I meen it ,,, This time for sure ,,, YesSiree Bob , no more axes ,,,, Time to cull the heard ,,, Yup , gonna start being a minimalist ,,, Real soon ....
Lol!
Trx250r180
Saw polisher
How do you like the new axe ?
I might let you know this weekend , depends if my local Makita depot has a 3601 lol
It's a better height for me. more power in that part of the swing, IMO, and less bending over.
If I miss, axe / maul hits the splitting block, instead of the dirt. A tire also helps to hold things together. Hitting the shins would require quite a miss.
Only disadvantage is the need to lift each round up to the block.
Philbert
Multifaceted
Firewood Hoarder, Axe Enthusiast
I'm 6',2" so I guess you could consider me tall. I think handle length is more subjective than anything, what works good for one person may not for another regardless of physique, height, or strength.
Meh, it can be a risk if one is not careful. Splitting upright on the ground is going to put my splitting axe in the dirt, which is no bueno. Splitting up on a block ensures that my bit with plant into the wood. Again, this is me talking and my current preferences, not making a general statement. Also, keeping the axe very sharp lessens the likelihood of glancing blows, which will damage your shins regardless of how sharp it is or isn't. That being said, I am also a fan of the golf swing splitting method on the ground, I like to use a heavy felling axe for that. The thing is, doing that for an extended period of time wears out my lower back. Not so much the swinging as it is angling my body and stepping over logs and what not... When I split on a block I like to use a chain and bungee, and keep a pickaroon at arms reach for the smaller stuff.
Some of their axes are nice, others not so much... like the Vario 2000 -- what the hell is that? I liked the Splataxt because of the design, which I was already familiar with using, but I wanted better quality properly hardened steel and a wood handle. I do not like plastic handles. Nothing wrong with them, I just don't like 'em.
Yes, I found a dealer in Frederick, MD that sells Hults and Gransförs Bruk. I could have swore I was an Arvika, but maybe it was the American Felling Axe.... pretty sure that's what it was labeled as, and it was ground to a clean steel finish, no forging marks.
Similar threads
