Splitting/Chopping Tool Review Thread

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Spot on guys. I looked both models up and mine is definitely the X15 chopping axe. No swell at all on the cheeks for splitting. This is the all black model with checkering on the handle instead of the rubberized grip found on the orange models. The orange handled types have the model on them, but not these. It does work well as a chopper, as its extremely sharp.
 
I wish the X-15 had the longer handle like your chopping axe. I prefer the rubberized handle of the X but the longer swing of the chopping axe makes it a more useful tool. They both work extremely well though and are my go-to chopping tools.

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Honestly if I hadn't gotten crazy with axe restorations I wouldn't need any of the wood handled tools since I bought these.

I had to tape up the chopping axe with orange duck tape. Kept losing it in the woods lol.
 
Took the two recently rehung axes out today.

The quarry was frozen Aspen. The good news is my dad's old Hudson Bay axe finally held tight in the new handle. I had left the handle proud over the head and wedged extensively then soaked for a couple days in BLO. I did stick it several times while splitting and the head didn't walk at all when I pryed it out.

The performance of the boy's axe head left something to be desired in frozen wood. It's just too light. It was a fun project and will probably end on kindling duty at my cabin anyhow which is fine.

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I visited the Best Made Co store today to check it out first hand. The store was very nice, friendly and full of wood, metal, and leather. The axes are beautifully finished. Truly a work of art. However, as a working tool they aren't for me. The Council Tool axe head is an in-betwen size: too small for a competition axe and a little too big for limbing and chopping for extended time in variable situations. The handles are nicely turned and felt good in hand. They aren't too thick and I bet they have a nice whip to them. They are too long, though. It's the size of a splitting maul, not an axe you can use with precision in the woods. Most of my axes are about 30 inches plus or minus depending on the axe. I wouldn't dismiss them just because they are fancy, expensive, and from NYC. The guy picked a Council Tool axe as the base and that is a quality foundation to build on. The handle is thinner and more refined than any off-the-shelf axe you will find from any manufacturer. The axe doesn't fit my style of chopping, but that doesn't mean it isn't a nicely executed tool.
https://www.bestmadeco.com/visit-us
 
I visited the Best Made Co store today to check it out first hand. The store was very nice, friendly and full of wood, metal, and leather. The axes are beautifully finished. Truly a work of art. However, as a working tool they aren't for me. The Council Tool axe head is an in-betwen size: too small for a competition axe and a little too big for limbing and chopping for extended time in variable situations. The handles are nicely turned and felt good in hand. They aren't too thick and I bet they have a nice whip to them. They are too long, though. It's the size of a splitting maul, not an axe you can use with precision in the woods. Most of my axes are about 30 inches plus or minus depending on the axe. I wouldn't dismiss them just because they are fancy, expensive, and from NYC. The guy picked a Council Tool axe as the base and that is a quality foundation to build on. The handle is thinner and more refined than any off-the-shelf axe you will find from any manufacturer. The axe doesn't fit my style of chopping, but that doesn't mean it isn't a nicely executed tool.
https://www.bestmadeco.com/visit-us

I can't knock the quality, even if starting with Council as a base with which to build off of, but for the price point of just the base, unfinished axe, it's just not worth it for me. Not because I doubt the workmanship - I hear and see the reviews on that it is very quality. However, as someone who restores axes as a side gig and a hobby, I can do the same work in an afternoon with the same Council Tool head that I could pay for a fraction of the cost.
 
Got out this morning after the rain moved on.

First here is my review of the X-25: This tool worked much better than I anticipated. For the wood I was splitting, this was the peer of the X-27. Granted I'm already used to using a shorter handled tool but I think you can get a faster swing with less effort because you need to wind up to get that long handled X-27 going. When I get into larger wood in the future where a "kowabunga" swing is needed, this opinion may change but time will tell.

Secondly the X-25 is very similar in length to the Husky S2800 but it feels much better balanced. On a tangent, I noticed the same thing on the GB splitting axe I tried this spring as well; it just felt better in your hands than the S2800. With that being said the S2800 did outmuscle both X series tools in the larger rounds. So you need to decide if feel or productivity is more important to you. I know I can put more splits in the pile faster with the Husky than I can the X-27 but that's a different discussion.

On another tangent, I wonder if 32" is the optimum handle length? Seems that for me (being 5' 11"), 36" is a bit long and 27/28" is a bit short. Maybe another reason I liked that GB.

I pulled out dad's True Temper tools as well. The big axe really swings nice and was splitting right alongside the modern tools. The maul, which I don't care for as much due to its overstrike damage prone "sledge eye" handle, split wood fine but wasn't nearly as natural to swing despite having the same head weight as the big axe. Mauls don't really have much of a place in my splitting arsenal unless I'm out east where you need their mass and ability to be pounded through with a sledge when dealing with the tougher species.

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Tried to show the results of a single swing in equal wood.
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The oldies but goodies.
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Some real pretty wood here.
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So in review, if you like the X-27 but it feels a bit long for you, then you will love the X-25. I'm happy with the purchase.
Bump for @James Miller
 
I went to the woodpile last sunday and today to split up some rounds
X25 , Granfors Bruk maul , Helko classic maul , Husqvarna splitting maul , Ochsenkoph maul and the Isocore .

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With the wood I was splitting the all around winner was the Ochsenkopf with the Isocore being the winner of brute strength .

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I'm officially an owner now. Where do I pick up my card?
I'm not a big fan of the Fiskars hatchet. Maybe hatchets in general. OK for light splitting of kindling, and for making holes in tents when you miss the stakes. But the chopping axes and splitting axes fall into a different category. Really like those Fiskars as lightweight, effective tools, when used for their intended purposes.

(But welcome to the club!)

Philbert
 
I'm not a big fan of the Fiskars hatchet. Maybe hatchets in general. OK for light splitting of kindling, and for making holes in tents when you miss the stakes. But the chopping axes and splitting axes fall into a different category. Really like those Fiskars as lightweight, effective tools, when used for their intended purposes.

(But welcome to the club!)

Philbert
IMO hatchets are only useful for cutting the stringy wood from splits when using a hydro.
 
I'm not a big fan of the Fiskars hatchet. Maybe hatchets in general. OK for light splitting of kindling, and for making holes in tents when you miss the stakes. But the chopping axes and splitting axes fall into a different category. Really like those Fiskars as lightweight, effective tools, when used for their intended purposes.

(But welcome to the club!)

Philbert

I don't have much use for hatchets either. I already have an Estwing Sportsman's Hatchet that I keep on my lawn tractor for... well, cutting the odd fallen limb into smaller pieces to toss aside, and... I don't know. For light work, I prefer small or light axes. I don't like the short length of a hatchet, very little leverage. For kindling, I prefer a small/light axe. Then again, I mostly use small limbs and what not as kindling, so I'm usually just cutting them on the bias against a block. Limbs and sticks fall around my house all of the time, and they make great kindling. It's easier for me to just chop them into stove lengths than to waste perfectly good cordwood by splitting it multiple times for kindling. I'll gather some fallen limbs and sticks, then spend 20 minutes filling a rack that'll last me three weeks for starting and stoking fires.

I put a stout edge on the Fiskars hatchet and hung it up over my indoor wood rack for... I don't know, whatever. I suppose it's good to have an edged tool nearby anywhere, so this fits that bill.

I should say that they steel feels pretty hard, the file didn't skate over the bit, but it took some controlled passes to get the file to cut. Had a bad grind and some chips to get out.
 
Nice, how's it throw?

No idea, the only thing I have to throw it into are trees and that doesn't always work.... and probably not good for the tree. I hope that soon after my dad's house settles this week I'll have a great deal of my free time back to play with my tools rather than work on them. It's driving me nuts.
 
DSCN4836.JPG DSCN4835.JPG Cleaned up 20 Norway pines yesterday in about 5 hours using the new Fiskars hand pruning saw. It made easy work on 1-2" dia limbs. It was a good workout for the arms, and a pleasure without a chainsaw screaming. The edge held up well.
 
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