Splitting/Chopping Tool Review Thread

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
IMO hatchets are only useful for cutting the stringy wood from splits when using a hydro.
I think my hatchet will come in handy chopping those pine branches down to a 18" length for spring and fall kindling.
 
Just a thought, my neighbor has a big pair of loppers for small stuff. Seems to be pretty effective. He uses them to trim atv trails when the snow breaks branches over the trail.
 
I keep loppers on my atv as well as a small trail axe i made. It's like a 20 inch axe or so. Works well for knocking off vines or branches or driving wedges. Loppers work well for tree trimmng and so does the manual pole saw. No need to get poked with needles while trimming.

I would think that fiskars saw has a similar blade as the fiskars pole saw.
 
I have the stihl version of that saw.Looks as if the teeth are deeper than on the fiskers.Cuts on the back stroke.Can really go through limbs!Rides along on the snowmobile or UTV.
 
I think that style of serrated tooth came out in the early 90's. I had a saw from Gander Mountain that was like that but the blade folded into the handle. It would cut like mad. I bought 4 of them and finally have dulled the last one. Need to get a Fiskars at some point.
 
I like the Silky blades, they are sharp. I've had several of the home owner grade pole saw/clip combos and have given them all away. I'd recommend a Marvin 3 piece pole with separate clip and saw heads. Cheaper than the Stihl and still of pro quality. Three 6 foot sections is all you want to handle over head. Some times one six foot section is all you need and it's nice not to be fighting the longer pole. I keep mine in a piece of 4" PVC mounted on my trailer. It has a solid cap on one end and a screw on cap on the other. It will hold 4 sections of pole, I keep the heads behind the seat or on a shelf in the garage. The difference between the pro pole saws is just like the difference between a WoodShark and a 660, no comparison, Joe.
 
Here's a picture of the old Craftsman folder. The blade was made in USA, the handle was made in Brazil. Little bit of a faster cutter vs the Fiskars.DSCN4877.JPG Ergonomically its a butt kicker after extended use. It is a great saw for camping or hunting trips its easy packing.DSCN4876.JPG
 
Here's a picture of the old Craftsman folder. The blade was made in USA, the handle was made in Brazil. Little bit of a faster cutter vs the Fiskars.
Upper photo shows a 'tri-edge' blade (3 bevels!), common on Japanese saws. Must be sharpened with very slim 'feather files' (unless impulse hardened at factory).
Lower photo shows 'WoodZig' style teeth; similar to chainsaw cutters, and sharpened with round files. Fiskars now owns the WoodZig brand and design.

Here's a picture of the old Craftsman folder. . . . Little bit of a faster cutter vs the Fiskars.
I would bet that in green (live) wood, the tri-edge blade would give a faster, cleaner cut (when sharp) for pruning. The WoodZig might be a better design for fire wood and camping.

EDIT: Apparently, used to be an Oregon product: "Oregon has not manufactured Woodzig® products for more than 10 years. Thus, Woodzig® parts are no longer available from Oregon, Blount Inc."

Philbert
 
I have several folding and straight blade pruning saws. I mostly use them for marking logs with an 18" stick for firewood now. I have Fiskars, Corona, Fanno, and maybe Wesspur. But, the fastest cutter was the Teflon coated one in this pick. It's the one that stuck in my knee. I was cutting off a limb about the size of my upper arm. On the 3rd stroke the blade went through and kept going and stuck in my knee cap. It hurt.
jIQF1x8.jpg
 

Latest posts

Back
Top