Splitting Wedges

[turnkey4099]

Mauls are designed to strike with, against a softer wedge as noted earlier, not by another object. Hitting a maul with a maul (or a hammer with a hammer), results in 'hard' hitting 'hard'. Might depend on the design of the individual tool/brand/model, but generally not recommended.

I enjoy the 'Mythbusters' guys - they have a lot of fun on their show. But their science isn't always right on.

Philbert

Well, the mythbusters tried _hard_, not onece but twice and failed both times using all different ways to get a chip.

Yes, the manufacturer says not to do it. Manufacturers also say not to do all kinds of rediculous things.

I, and all my neigbors, back when I was a kid and currently for 30 years have used them that way and never got a chip except from a mushroom (kid time).

Show me someone who has stuck a maul and _not_ hammered on it.

Harry K

 

[jsd176]

Well I bought a regualr wedge and a cone wedge on Monday. I couldn't get the Estwing because the Home Depot that I went to didn't carry it. I ended up getting one last night at another Home Depot. Anyway, Monday night I tried the two wedges I had. I am not at all impressed with the cone wedge. I'd get it in an inch or so, think it had a good bite then give it one or two good strikes and it would pop out of the round. The rounds were damp when I cut them last Saturday and it was 15 out Monday night when I was messing around with the wedges. Maybe that had something to do with it. The regular wedge didn't seem like it had a sharp enough edge so it was hard to get started in the wood. I'm looking forward to trying the Estwing, hopefully I'll get better results. There aren't too many rounds I can't split, so worse comes to worst I might just take the few I can't get up to my buddies and give them to him. His wife's pap has a log splitter, so he can have 'em.

 

[Philbert]

Thanks for the update. I played with a few cone shaped wedges that I got at garage sales. Seemed to work best on smaller rounds and green rounds. Could not predict how they would split.

Based on you comments, maybe you could try grinding a sharper entry point into the ends of your wedges, or cutting a narrow kerf/slot with your saw to start them? Would just be for the sake of research.

Philbert

 

[turnkey4099]

Thanks for the update. I played with a few cone shaped wedges that I got at garage sales. Seemed to work best on smaller rounds and green rounds. Could not predict how they would split.

Based on you comments, maybe you could try grinding a sharper entry point into the ends of your wedges, or cutting a narrow kerf/slot with your saw to start them? Would just be for the sake of research.

Philbert

Using the saw to cut a kerf is a practical method, not just for research. I regularly do that on green locust rounds that I need to "half'. If I don't do it, I have to chase the wedge about 3 times before it will stick.

Harry K

 

[gwiley]

Using the saw to cut a kerf is a practical method, not just for research. I regularly do that on green locust rounds that I need to "half'. If I don't do it, I have to chase the wedge about 3 times before it will stick.

Harry K

Good point, I would add that I prefer chasing the wedge to picking up at feet after it bounces off my shin.

 

[turnkey4099]

Good point, I would add that I prefer chasing the wedge to picking up at feet after it bounces off my shin.

But I thought God designed shins to be used as a backstop...at least that is what mine get used for all too often.

Harry K

 

[WadePatton]

all i've used is maul and hammer. if the maul bounces 3 times, then kick that round to the ripsaw/noodle pile. when the maul sticks, hit with 8# hammer until free.

bigger rounds get "chipped off" around the edges with m/h.

wedges...i'll have to get some of those. used of course--and reconditioned, i know frag well.

 

[mokuransu]

Picked up a Estwing Sure Split wedge yesterday to pair with my Fiskars isocore splitting maul. The Estwing wedge works exceptionally well, I highly recommend it.