treemanclint
New Member
This is a problem I am sure others of you who run any of the husky saws that have the counterbores in the front of the muffler in which the head mounting bolts go.
I have been a Stilhl man most of my life, and have only been running Husky's for over a year now. I won my first in a contest,a 372, and the first day in the woods I noticed that put off alot of sparks from the muffler. I didn't give it much thought for a long time because I seldom used the saw. Too small for the timber I cut; great topping saw though! I recently purchased a 385 just to see if it would preform against an 066. I modified it to bring it into its true power curve, and I liked it so well I bought another one. Still the same problem with the 385 as on the 372. I was starting fires at every tree, and burning the ???? out of my arms with at times a cloud of sparks. I told myself this has to stop or I am going back to Stihl. That is when it hit me what was happening.
When your in close to your work, especially down close to the ground in a big cut, the saw is pulling alot of chips clear around the chain and bouncing them off of the tree and back at the front of the saw. Some of these chips find their way down the counterbore holes, become superheaded, roll back out into the exhaust stream and thus showering them everywhere.
Here is my solution, which I plan to submit to Husky, but you can do to your saw. The counterbore is just the right Dia. for a SAE 7/16-20 bolt. Now tapping is preferred, and a tap is not that expensive, but in a pinch, a bolt will tap itself for 8-10 threads deep. Any hardwear store should have 1/2''-3/4'' long bolts in either cap screw or hex head. Set screws would be nice, but are hard to come by in 7/16-20. I must say the hex bolts look really tuff,and will make for alot of questions from anybody that sees your saw. What you tell them is up to you! I tell everybody my saw has so-much power I have to use 7/16 bolts just to keep from blowing the muffler off!!!!!!!
Happy sawing.
P.S. I'll try and get a picture on here just for show to anyone that needs a map. I now that is a big help. I know the picture on modifying the 372/385 mufflers helped me out. Thanks to??, sorry I can't remember.
I have been a Stilhl man most of my life, and have only been running Husky's for over a year now. I won my first in a contest,a 372, and the first day in the woods I noticed that put off alot of sparks from the muffler. I didn't give it much thought for a long time because I seldom used the saw. Too small for the timber I cut; great topping saw though! I recently purchased a 385 just to see if it would preform against an 066. I modified it to bring it into its true power curve, and I liked it so well I bought another one. Still the same problem with the 385 as on the 372. I was starting fires at every tree, and burning the ???? out of my arms with at times a cloud of sparks. I told myself this has to stop or I am going back to Stihl. That is when it hit me what was happening.
When your in close to your work, especially down close to the ground in a big cut, the saw is pulling alot of chips clear around the chain and bouncing them off of the tree and back at the front of the saw. Some of these chips find their way down the counterbore holes, become superheaded, roll back out into the exhaust stream and thus showering them everywhere.
Here is my solution, which I plan to submit to Husky, but you can do to your saw. The counterbore is just the right Dia. for a SAE 7/16-20 bolt. Now tapping is preferred, and a tap is not that expensive, but in a pinch, a bolt will tap itself for 8-10 threads deep. Any hardwear store should have 1/2''-3/4'' long bolts in either cap screw or hex head. Set screws would be nice, but are hard to come by in 7/16-20. I must say the hex bolts look really tuff,and will make for alot of questions from anybody that sees your saw. What you tell them is up to you! I tell everybody my saw has so-much power I have to use 7/16 bolts just to keep from blowing the muffler off!!!!!!!
Happy sawing.
P.S. I'll try and get a picture on here just for show to anyone that needs a map. I now that is a big help. I know the picture on modifying the 372/385 mufflers helped me out. Thanks to??, sorry I can't remember.
