Stihl 015 av

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No face 243

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I have a stihl 015 av that will run for about 10 to 15 minutes then act like it's starved for fuel and die then when I try and fire it up it sputters and may fire but he shortly dit's like 5 seconds. I just rebuilt the carb had it set at 3/4 turn and 1 1/2. and it does the same. Also the fuel line was replaced, any one have any suggestions? I really love the saw and it's great for limbing but when it acts up my other running saw is a homelite 450 which is good to but for limbing gets kinda heavy, lol please any thoughts would be great.
 
I have a stihl 015 av that will run for about 10 to 15 minutes then act like it's starved for fuel and die then when I try and fire it up it sputters and may fire but he shortly dit's like 5 seconds. I just rebuilt the carb had it set at 3/4 turn and 1 1/2. and it does the same. Also the fuel line was replaced, any one have any suggestions? I really love the saw and it's great for limbing but when it acts up my other running saw is a homelite 450 which is good to but for limbing gets kinda heavy, lol please any thoughts would be great.
Did you check the vent line? Could be blocked thus building up pressure in the tank after saw warms up. Next time you run saw and it stops, loosen fuel cap and if you hear air releasing the vent is blocked.
 
Yeah if I let it sit for 15 it will start up then do the same thing. and I will have to check the venting, is there a good way to clean the vent?
 
Does it have points? Mine did the same thing and the wire from the coil to the points shorted out where it passes under a black plastic cover for the points and condenser. Because the insulation was worn where the wire contacted the metal housing, you couldn't see the damage without lifting the wire and checking the bottom. This stumped one of the best chainsaw shops in the area.
 
Yes it does have points I will have to look into that. easy fix for that is just replace the ignition from points and condenser to an electric ignition?
 
If it ends up being fuel line related the 015 line is nla but you can use an 025 line. I just fixed two of those they are easy to work on.
 
Yes it does have points I will have to look into that. easy fix for that is just replace the ignition from points and condenser to an electric ignition?
Easier fix is to tape up the worn wire if that's what it is. I always favored points and condenser - can almost always get them to work by filing the points and resetting - and no money spent. Others have had good luck with the aftermarket modules.
 
Awesome, that how I feel about the points and condenser, almost feels like working on something that's a lost art
 
Does anyone know if they sell an after market replacement sprocket with rim sprocket set up that I can purchase for the 015?
 
Ebay or watch the classifieds here if you switch from 1/4 to 3/8 or vice versa you have to change the oil pump gear as well they can be pricey so i just bought a couple of loops of 1/4 chain off ebay instead but these chains can be expensive.
 
I want to change the normal sprocket so it can have like a oregon power match rim sproket, keeping my 1/4 chain on there. so rim sprocket is different than a normal sprocket where a normal sprocket is like a star a rim sprocket has small teeth and you can put a ring around it so the chain can move more freely when you are cutting, and it doesn't wear the sprocket out as fast since the chain isn't making direct contact with the sprocket just the ring
 
I would just want to swap the sprocket part out then put a 3/8 ring on it, or is that not possible? obviously use a different chain too
 
I would just want to swap the sprocket part out then put a 3/8 ring on it, or is that not possible? obviously use a different chain too
That won't work. Likely different diameter rims. That old a saw you're better off staying at 1/4" who's chains are pricey or going to ..325 and changing bar, chain, sprocket and oiler gear. Seems to me just buying a 1/4" chain would be cheaper
 
That won't work. Likely different diameter rims. That old a saw you're better off staying at 1/4" who's chains are pricey or going to ..325 and changing bar, chain, sprocket and oiler gear. Seems to me just buying a 1/4" chain would be cheaper
I agree. I was looking for the same thing but couldn't find one. I changed one from 3/8 to 1/4" to use for chainsaw carving but had to go with the spur sprocket and change the oil pump gear.
 
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