Stihl 024 crank seal depth

[bmasurski]

Hello,
I am looking for a little guidance on rebuilding a 024 that I recently purchased from eBay a few months ago.
The seller had said that the saw was in good shape and the piston looked good through the exhaust, but with a quick inspection on my part I decided to tear the whole saw apart and give it a deep clean.
I throughly that I would replace the crank seals as I have the flywheel off. I brought the saw to a stihl dealer to pull the seals because I didn’t want to risk scratching the crank or the case, they said they had a special tool for removing the seals.
They graciously took my money and marred the heck out of the bevel on the flywheel side.
So my question at this time is how deep should the flywheel side seal be in the pocket?
The previous seal was about 7/64 ish below the case edge but I think it might be a bit deep... the saw showed some signed of being worked on. It had a WT 194 carb???
All my searching says 1mm below the case edge or flush “ but flush wouldn’t work with the bevel”.
Is there a definitive depth for this seal, or could someone who has the specific stihl tool #1121 893 2400 , measure the seating depth for the FW side.
Thanks so much this is a great sight with so much info and helpful people.
Regards

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Sorry to hear about that. It’s worth bringing up with the shop. You paid for a service with the correct tool. That wasn’t done with a seal puller, that was done with something like a screwdriver using the edge of seal pocket as a fulcrum.

As per your request. The verniers said about 2.6mm deep, but here is a pic for reference by a ruler.

Before installing the new seals, check the mag pocket wasn’t deformed or dented in that may affect the seal being inserted correctly. Doesn’t look like it, but a closer inspection is needed.

 

[bmasurski]

Oh great !! That is just the info that I need.
i think I will set it about 0.102” below the edge.
The damage to the case bevel really upset me especially considering they said they had a special tool for the job and I expressed my concerns about damage.
I think the seal should seat well as the damage is just on the edge.
I am pretty sure the shop will tell me to just deal with it...
Thanks for this pic !

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

How much did they charge may I ask?

 

[bmasurski]

Yes no problem,
They charged 25$

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Hang on a minute- you bought the saw from an online auction site- seals were still in place before you took it to the shop.
Can you be 100% sure the damage was not there before you bought the saw? Some of those marks don't look like fresh scaring.
Lord knows who has levered on what in the past life of the saw before it became yours.

 

[bmasurski]

The shop did the damage. Here is a pic of that side that I took as I was taking the saw down for reference.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

Then yes, you have a case to pursue with them and the evidence to back it up- take the photo with you when you take the saw back and ask them to explain how using the proper tool leads to marring the pocket?

 

[bmasurski]

For sure.
Lucky I take pics of things now as I take them apart.. I am great at taking stuff apart, putting it together is another story.
Good news I guess is they didn’t appear to mar the inner surface or the crack. So with it being inset I don’t think it will be an issue.
It is just not the level of work I would expect to see from a pro shop.
Thanks all for chiming in, I am sure I will have more questions as I begin to rebuild it.

 

[Piotr Pakula]

Unfortunately, there are novices in stores, especially where several people work in front of the client, for example to stop the saw

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

You sound set on just moving on, so onwards and upwards with the build. These 80’s - 90’s model saws are a delight to work on. Very simple and straight forward, enjoy the process. I look forward to seeing more