Stihl 025 - Help Needed

[RustyBeach]

Hello. I am new here, and I am seeking a little help on fixing a problem.

I have a Stihl 025 chainsaw that my step-dad gave to me. He said if I could fix it, it was mine. He found it at an abandoned job site, and had been sitting out in the weather. It is in pretty decent shape, though.

I took the bar and chain off, because the bar was rusted pretty good. I figured it would make for easier starting if the chain wasn't binding up.

I added just a little bit of fuel/oil, but not much. I couldn't pull the pull start. It felt like it was locked up. I took the side panel off and removed the pull start and replaced the rope. It seemed to pull and retract fairly easily off of the machine. I grabbed the crank (?) where the pull start sets on and was able to turn it with no problem (other than the regular resistance with an engine with compression). I pulled the spark plug to make sure I had decent compression, and I did. There was a slight spark so I replaced the spark plug. I have fuel, fire and compression but it is not making sense as to why I cannot pull start it. I even broke the new rope I put on there (granted, I did use 1/4" parachute cord, as that is all I had). I put the saw on the ground, put my foot on the saw and still couldn't pull-start it.

I have it disassembled now to clean up everything. The engine is still assembled. I just removed the handle and the plastic to clean all the crud off of it.

Any suggestions?

I am pretty good with repairing/fixing things, so I have a decent mechanical ability, but this saw is driving me nuts.

Thanks in advance for any help/suggestions that you may have.

 

[RustyBeach]

Here is an update after messing with it for a little longer.

I put everything back together. I have one wire I can't figure out where it connects. There are 2 wires that run into the carb aera from the engine. One is the ground wire and I know where that connects to, the other is the coil wire (not the coil wire that connects to plug). I cannot remember (or see) where this wire connects.

I tried to pul-start it again and it is like trying to pull a car up a hill. It barely moves. I pulled the plug out to check something and tried to pull on the rope again to see what happens. When the plug is out, I can pull it all day long with no problem. It is very easy. As soon as I put the plug back in, even just a little, it is hard as hell to pull. It is like there is way too much compression or something. It will move a little, but not much.

As for the compression release button/valve that some of these have, mine doesn't have one. I saw in the manual where some models do, but mine doesn't. This isn't a newer saw. It does not have the easy start.

In the process of doing all of this, the plug boot came off of the wire, and it doesn't look like I can't fix it, so it looks like I may have to buy a coil. It all depends on if I can figure out this hard to pull problem.

I don't mind spending up to about $50-$60 to fix it as it is in pretty good shape, other than the plastic is discolored from being out in the weather.

 

[buck futter]

oh boy

pull your muffler off and see if things are plugged up and if the piston looks ok. You should be able to fix the plug boot with some patience, if worse comes to worse take it to a dealer and have them give you an estimate of what it needs.

buck

 

[doc874]

I just rebuilt a 026. The wires that run into the carb area are green and black? One as you've said is the ground the other should be for the off switch there should be a metal tab about one inch high on the left side of the carb ( looking from the rear handle area. ) one of the wires goes into a groove there for the kill switch, its near the gas tank vent, there is also a plastic ( black? ) rod that runs the length of the lower part of the back of the saw under the air filter cover, this engages the metal tab to turn the saw off etc... If possible see if you can get an IPL or shop manual from one of the gang here, it will help big time. The difficulty in pulling the saw over could be a few things, but, if your that handy with small engines than take the cylinder off and see if there is a burr near the exhaust port or intake port that the piston is catching on or is it burned that bad that its making it difficult for the piston to move or is a ring broken. Also make sure there is nothing under the flywheel, these are partly magnetic and if used in construction anything metal could get stuck. Good luck.

Doc

 

[Lakeside53]

You can't just pull of the cylinder on an 025 to check the piston... if you want to do this you need to pull the motor out the support cradle. Definitely get a workshop manual before doing this.

If you want to check the piston, just pull the muffler - three nuts on the front of the muffler..

With the plug out, you should be able to spin the motor over by hand easily by just turning the flywheel with your fingers.

 

[RustyBeach]

There is nothing physically there that I can see that would keep it from starting. Nothing is under the flywhell as I have had it off. Plus, I am able to spin it without the spark plug in it.

I had the muffler pulled off. There were 2 screws holding it on (not 3 unless that is for a newer model). I cleaned the screen while I had it off also. With the muffler off and the spark plug out, I turned the flywheel with my hand, and I can see the piston moving up and down freely.

 

[THALL10326]

There is nothing physically there that I can see that would keep it from starting. Nothing is under the flywhell as I have had it off. Plus, I am able to spin it without the spark plug in it.

I had the muffler pulled off. There were 2 screws holding it on (not 3 unless that is for a newer model). I cleaned the screen while I had it off also. With the muffler off and the spark plug out, I turned the flywheel with my hand, and I can see the piston moving up and down freely.

Are you saying you cant crank the engine with the pull rope , only by hand with the pull rope assembly off?

If so look at your rope assembly.....

 

[RustyBeach]

Only when the plug is removed.

 

[THALL10326]

Only when the plug is removed.

Hmmmmmmmmm, your saying with the plug installed you can't turn the engine at all??

 

[RustyBeach]

Nevermind. I am wrong.

I decided to go back out and try it to make sure. I have been messing with it so much the past couple of days, I couldn't remember.

With the plug in (and muffler on), and I take the pull start cover off, I can turn the flywheel by hand. There is some resistance, but I can turn it easily.

It looks like on the round pulley the rope wraps around, there is one of the little ears missing where it catches the flywheel. It looks like I need to replace those. Is there only one spring clip that holds both these ears on, or is thre one for each ear?

I was looking in the phone book to find a repair shop that was open to buy these little ears, pull rope and possibly a spark plug boot, but no one is open. They all close at 1:00PM on Staurdays.

I will post a picture in a few minutes of the wires to see if someone can help figure that out.

 

[THALL10326]

Nevermind. I am wrong.

I decided to go back out and try it to make sure. I have been messing with it so much the past couple of days, I couldn't remember.

With the plug in (and muffler on), and I take the pull start cover off, I can turn the flywheel by hand. There is some resistance, but I can turn it easily.

It looks like on the round pulley the rope wraps around, there is one of the little ears missing where it catches the flywheel. It looks like I need to replace those. Is there only one spring clip that holds both these ears on, or is thre one for each ear?

I was looking in the phone book to find a repair shop that was open to buy these little ears, pull rope and possibly a spark plug boot, but no one is open. They all close at 1:00PM on Staurdays.

I will post a picture in a few minutes of the wires to see if someone can help figure that out.

Awwwwwww more like it, good. That part missing is called a starter pawl, the part number is 1125-195-7200, cost about a buck or two. Look closely at the rope rotor again, there should be a little wire clip on top of the post as well. Most times when the clip comes off it hangs up in the center of the flywheel. Look closely at the very center of the flywheel and you may find the pawl and clip right there, good luck...

 

[THALL10326]

oooooooops

You say the clip is there, ok good. Just get a new pawl and your ready to saw some wood. The 025 is a neat little saw.

 

[RustyBeach]

OK. Here are some pictures of a couple of things.

This first one is of the carb and wires. The one with the arrow is the one I cannot find where it connects. It is probably staring right in my face.

The second one is of the engine side where the pulley is. There are 2 arrows I highlighted here. There is a black tube (vent?) that comes off the back of the engine. Does it connect anywhere? It was not connected when I first started pulling everything apart. It does not seem to be long enough to reach into the carb space.

The last is of the pulley I was mentioning.

 

[THALL10326]

The wires on the coil and engine are right. That grey loose wire slides into your on/off switch.There is a groove on the switch in which it just slides in, you'll see it, look close. Just slide it back in and your done with the wiring, 30 second job. The pawl on the starter looks worn, get a new one and your set to go

 

[RustyBeach]

Is there a pawl missing, or is there only supposed to be one? There are 2 spots where one can be put.

 

[Dan Forsh]

Pics always help.

The black wire is (I'm pretty sure) for the kill switch. Keep looking and you should find where it goes.

The hose is the impulse hose. Not too sure on that model but it may be that when you push the carb in place there is a nozzle on the carb that will locate over it, or it may push over a plastic nozzle in the plate that the carb locates on to.

There is nothing wrong with the starter, there should only be one pawl. I know there are two positions, but only one pawl is correct.

Dan

 

[THALL10326]

only 1 pawl

Only has one pawl. The loose wire is the kill wire, just needs to be slid back in the switch.

 

[THALL10326]

Note,

If that clip is sliding around as you spin the rotor the pawl will not open up like it should and grab the flywheel. That starter assembly doesn't look all that bad, some wear on the pawl is all I see. The clip itself may need a little squeeze where it fits on for a tighter fit. Be sure you put it back exactly the way it came off. If you put it back up side down the pawl will not open at all..

 

[RustyBeach]

OK. I found where the black wire hooked.

I guess it just takes another set of eyes or something once in a while. I was so aggravated with it last night. If I would have stepped back and looked at it longer, I probably would have seen it.

Now, I just need to fix the coil/plug wire.

Also, about the pawls. Whether there is one or two of them. If there is supposed to be two of them, I don't see how it would be held in. The spring clip holds that one in. If I put another pawl in, there is no room for a second clip, or the one clip doesn't look like it would hold both in.

 

[THALL10326]

the wire goes there