Stihl 025 - Help Needed

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RustyBeach said:
OK. I found where the black wire hooked.

I guess it just takes another set of eyes or something once in a while. I was so aggravated with it last night. If I would have stepped back and looked at it longer, I probably would have seen it.

Now, I just need to fix the coil/plug wire.

Also, about the pawls. Whether there is one or two of them. If there is supposed to be two of them, I don't see how it would be held in. The spring clip holds that one in. If I put another pawl in, there is no room for a second clip, or the one clip doesn't look like it would hold both in.

Only one pawl. They give you a extra hole in case you was to crack the one the pawl is in. If you did you just put it in the other hole..
 
Sorry. I was typing my post while you posted about the pawl.

With the pull start off the saw, I can pull the pull start easily and I see the pawl open up. It does not go back into place though. I guess once the saw starts, it would go back in on it's own.

I am still going to replace the pawl, especially since they are so cheap. I also need a new rope. I have some parachute cord in ther now, as that is all I had at the time. Even with the original rope that was in there, I still couldn't pull it. It eventually broke. That is why I rigged it with the other cord.
 
RustyBeach said:
Sorry. I was typing my post while you posted about the pawl.

With the pull start off the saw, I can pull the pull start easily and I see the pawl open up. It does not go back into place though. I guess once the saw starts, it would go back in on it's own.

I am still going to replace the pawl, especially since they are so cheap. I also need a new rope. I have some parachute cord in ther now, as that is all I had at the time. Even with the original rope that was in there, I still couldn't pull it. It eventually broke. That is why I rigged it with the other cord.


No biggie, we all are here to help each other. Now that spark plug wire. I assume from what your saying you have or someone has pull the boot off. If so you will need a spark plug wire clip that attaches to the wire and the boot slips over it. About a buck.
 
Another question. If all looks good after I replace the rope and pawl, what would still cause it to be almost impossible to pull start it? Just in case I still have this problem when I get it all back together correctly.
 
RustyBeach said:
Sorry. I was typing my post while you posted about the pawl.

With the pull start off the saw, I can pull the pull start easily and I see the pawl open up. It does not go back into place though. I guess once the saw starts, it would go back in on it's own.

I am still going to replace the pawl, especially since they are so cheap. I also need a new rope. I have some parachute cord in ther now, as that is all I had at the time. Even with the original rope that was in there, I still couldn't pull it. It eventually broke. That is why I rigged it with the other cord.
Get a new clip as well, only about .35-.50 cents. That will insure your getting a tight fit so the pawl will open up and close like it should, part number is 1118-195-3500...
 
THALL10326 said:
No biggie, we all are here to help each other. Now that spark plug wire. I assume from what your saying you have or someone has pull the boot off. If so you will need a spark plug wire clip that attaches to the wire and the boot slips over it. About a buck.

Yeah. When I was pulling everything apart for about the third time last night, the boot slipped off. I will be getting a new one on Monday.
 
RustyBeach said:
Another question. If all looks good after I replace the rope and pawl, what would still cause it to be almost impossible to pull start it? Just in case I still have this problem when I get it all back together correctly.

One thing the 025 is well known for is cranking hard. It cranks hard but runs oh so good.
 
RustyBeach said:
Yeah. When I was pulling everything apart for about the third time last night, the boot slipped off. I will be getting a new one on Monday.

Wait till you try to slip that boot over up over the wire clip, may want a piece of wood to bite on,lol, its agervating, so beware and be patient...
 
One other thing comes to mind on the hard to pull issue. Check that the plastic pulley that the rope wraps on to isn't cracked. You'll need to take the rope off again to check correctly. Look at the centre. If it is cracked it can splay open allowing the rope to overwrap on its self and bind.
 
025

If you are still having problems trying to pull the rope and it will not turn over their is two possibilities. One is that the pully has a crackin it. With the plug out their is little resistance. With the plug in the resistance is felt then the pully the rope fits on has a possible crack and the rope is binding itself. If this is not the cause then the rope may be worn causing the same situation.Two, an improper rope has been installed and it is doing the same thing as mentioned.I would check with a good light for any cracks around the rope spool.With the recoil off the saw try and hold the pully and try and pull the rope. If you do have a crack, this may help you find it. I have the same saw and it works very well, Ken

The starting rope should wind on top of itself.not beside it.
 
I got the "impulse" hose connected back.

There was a small plastic tip on the back of the housing (engine side) where it connected. It was a tight fit reaching a pair of needle nose pliers to slip it back on. That hose isn't long enough to pull the housing out far enough to easilt do it.

Now, I am at a stand still until Monday when I can go get the parts I need.
 
The culprit

I think the parachute cord may have been the problem, kind of like dan said. it could get bound up when trying to pull it out. 1 plastic pawl sounds weak when you normally think of two metal ones, but it holds up very well if you take care of it. My dad always taught me to slowly pull the rope out until the pawls engage and then snap it. Meaning just don't grab the handle and yank it. It is just one of those little things that may add up on how long the saw holds together.
The 025 is a dandy of a saw mine has between 135-140lbs of compression and although all of the rest of my saws have more this one does the best with the rope pull test because of its light weight.

While you have it apart I think it is worth it to put a few bucks in it, it is going to last you a long time and frankly it is not the nicest saw to get in and work on. Although these saws are fairly low maintenance.

While you are at it and provided you have enough experience one of the best mods I did was upgrading to the 26RS chain, a chisel chain and I personally believe stihl chain to be the best. I also did a mild muffler mod on mine,it really needed it but some are not that bad off. I outlined what I did a while ago but never posted any pics, if you want just say the word and I will snap a few.

Good luck!


Buck
 
BTW when you tension the pull start make sure you've got about 1/4 turn of play left on the pulley/spring, check this by pulling out the starter cord all the way, hold it, then turn the pulley, it should have extra play. You metioned earlier you had snapped the cord, you might have had too much tension on the pull cord or you were REALLY frustrated!!
 
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Well I think these guys probably took care of ya. I will say that I have an 025 that I got used. The saw was abused pretty good but I got to tell you I replaced a few parts on it and I love it. Thing runs like a raped ape and I probably reach for it 90% of the time. Put a 16" bar on it and like someone said earlier put an RS chain on it and it will cut whatever you need.
 
Bermie said:
BTW when you tension the pull start make sure you've got about 1/4 turn of play left on the pulley/spring, check this by pulling out the starter cord all the way, hold it, then turn the pulley, it should have extra play. You metioned earlier you had snapped the cord, you might have had too much tension on the pull cord or you were REALLY frustrated!!

If you put a 800mm long 3.0mm starter cord on it, you'll have the correct length for the spring.

You said you had the flywheel off - make sure you torque it down to the correct setting - stop the piston and torque to 21ft lbs. Too much are you risk splitting or cracking the flywheel (these are a short fat taper.. and just cast)
 
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Yes, but I have seen folks who've unwound their original, factory installed, starter cord to inspect for wear, etc. then retensioned it way too tight.
As part of the training/certification I do here, this is one of the competencies, students often get them too tight at first, they need to know what constitutes too tight and how to remedy it (as well as too loose)
Just an observation!
 

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