Stihl 032 Clutch Has Me Confused. Help

[ZeroJunk]

The problem is that when you install the inner washer, spur gear, drive washer, bearing, clutch drum, and inner clutch drum washer as on the IPL, it is a bout an 1/8 of an inch past the flange on the crank shaft.
So, when you tighten the clutch it is tightening against the inside washer and the clutch drum. The clutch is firmly against the drum washer. And, the drum turns all the time.
Now, a 1/8 thick washer the sixe of the drum bore would cure the problem.
But, there is not one shown on the IPL.

What am I missing ?

 

[hotshot]

Think there was either a bearing width change or a pin drive washer change mid production.

Is your pin drive washer the raised collar type?

What brand drum is it & part #?

Pics?

I ran into that same issue a while back, and used a flat faced pin drive washer. Search for my old thread called “what happened here Stihl?”

Also, never torque it down until you get the correct parts stack (bearing has to set below the flange), or you’ll likely crush & distort it.

 

[ZeroJunk]

I could not find your thread. The washer flange slides up inside the bore of the drum, so I don't think that is adding to the length.

Did they have more than one oil drive spur, with a different height ? Doesn't show but one on the IPL .

I added a thick washer that is used on an 041 that rests on the crankshaft flange under the clutch. It spins freely that way and should work.

Could have the wrong bearing, too short. But, I don't think the clutch would tighten down on the bearing. May be wrong.

Not sure about who made the drum. I'll check.

 

[ZeroJunk]

Clutch just says Stihl 3/8

That small washer sits right up against the crank shaft flange. It will work but makes the drum a little sloppy.

Thought about trying to move the crank bearing a little, but that could turn in to a lot more work than I want to do.

 

[HarleyT]

Put up a side by side pic of the new drum/bearing vs. the old.
Can you re-assemble the old stuff back on and it is back to normal?

 

[hotshot]

Looks like it’s all there & the right parts. The issue I had was that the needle bearing would extend past the shaft step and get squeezed if you tried to tighten the clutch down.

That inner clutch washer laying between the clutch & cover has a small ID hole & it butts up against the crankshaft step.

So put on the inner gear thrust washer/Oiler spur gear/cover/pin drive washer/needle bearing, then put that inner clutch washer on and press & hold it in against the shaft step with your fingers.

You should have a good 0.010” sideways play in those inner parts...and the pin drive washer should not be rubbing down in the cover groove either.

BTW, your drum sprocket is shot & needs replaced.

 

[ZeroJunk]

Don't have any old stuff. Guy brought it in with sprocket on the oil pump melted, cover melted, no spur gear, no bearing . You know the deal.

It's not off much, just enough that the clutch tightens on the drum.

 

[hotshot]

Hard to tell how far down the needle end cage is from the crank step in that pic, but it does look to be setting below it.

If the needle bearing does have clearance, and the clutch installation still binds up the inner oiler washer/spur gear stack, then you may have to belt sand the drum spur sprocket’s face a bit to get sideways clearance in that stack.

Is the inner spur gear washer properly installed with the open cup towards the crank bearing race?

 

[ZeroJunk]

Is the inner spur gear washer properly installed with the open cup towards the crank bearing race?

No , I think I have it with the cup in the indention in the spur gear. I'll flip it and see if it makes any difference.

 

[ZeroJunk]

Well, flipping that makes no difference.

I am beginning to think the crank bearing is too far out.

Something made it melt out to start with. But, I don't know any history of this saw.

It's unlikely that the bearings have ever been changed.

Beats me.

 

[hotshot]

OK then, and good luck with that 032.

Had one binding up just like it, but with an Oregon spur sprocket #32060 that was brand new.

They did make an Oregon #27954 early on, so I’ll bet that’s before a PTO side bearing change.
Wished I had one to compare it to.

Took the 32060 sprocket face several passes across the belt sander to fix it.

 

[HarleyT]

Let me go out and see if I can scrounge up a junker.

 

[HarleyT]

Here is as I took it apart.

 

[HarleyT]

Mind you, this is an 031, and the thrust washer on mine is just thin and flat, no step up. Also a pic of the crank bearing...

 

[ZeroJunk]

Thanks for the photos. This one had a flat washer. I bought the parts on eBay together, and it had the washer like it shows on the IPL. But, it doesn't matter. Even with no washer at all the clutch drum still ends up out past the flange on the crank shaft.

Don't know whether you can tell from the photos, but your crank bearing is quite a bit more recessed.

I'm tempted to take the starter off, set the flywheel side shaft down and see if I can tap the bearing in flush with a socket.

Or, I could try to mill the spur gear down like hotshot says.

Or, I could see if it works OK with the washer against the crank flange.

 

[HarleyT]

Does your inner reace protrude farther than the outer one? It looks like it does.

 

[ZeroJunk]

But, I don't understand what could have moved the bearing unless somebody rebuilt it at some point and didn't get it in correctly.

 

[ZeroJunk]

Does your inner reace protrude farther than the outer one? It looks like it does.

Yes, it does.


Just looked at one NOS on eBay and they are made that way.

 

[HarleyT]

9523 003 4440?

 

[ZeroJunk]

9523 003 4440?

Yes.