How did you know what level to set the metering lever? Did you just lower it a bit? Reason I ask is you stated you didn't know which model of Tillotson you had. Also with compression test I assume you pulled recoil until compression needle stopped rising.Replaced carb kit, impulse line, rings and fuel line. Started up but flooded out again.. Took carb apart again, readjusted metering lever and it now purrs like an angry lion. Idles good too!
Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk
The Stihl 0 series saws do not have gaskets between the carb and boot so it was not missing on your saw, the most often overlooked piece is the round metal ring that inserts inside the opening of the boot directly behind the carb, it keeps the rubber from deforming and not making an airtight seal. Does your boot have that ring in it? , if not then that is why it is not sealing to the carb, I have had the carbs out of every stihl 0 series saws through the years, they will all seal tight without a gasket.Quick Follow-up in case it helps others: I made up a gasket between the carb and intake boot; it was missing when I got the saw; now it runs/idles well till 1/4 tank at which point the filter isn't fully submerged - I guess it needs a new more flexible fuel line.
I'll tentatively conclude my metering lever doesn't need adjusting.
With the metal ring in the boot there is usually enough of the rubber left protruding up to where the carb buts up against the rubber making a seal as long as there are no cracks or bits of rubber missing. I mostly post about this sealing problem due to many times I have been contacted about the carb not sealing and if there is supposed to be a gasket there. When others in the future read these posted threads they see that you fixed the leak because the gasket was missing it gives them the idea that there should be a gasket there, they make one ,it solves their problem and they they post that same fix as being the gospel and it snowballs from there. The missing ring has been the cure for the majority of cases of air leaks that I have encountered, but one time I remember a case where someone had damaged the boot,likely when trying to reinstall it back through the bulkhead of the airbox by pulling it in with needle nose pliers the lip got distorted and ripped bits of rubber off. The owner had loaded the lip up with silicone and mashed the carb back in place, likely sealed the area for a bit but the silicone soon let go from the rubber and the leak reappeared.. If the boot is in good condition with the ring in it then a good seal is accomplished every time. Good to hear your saw is back in operation, it does sound like it was running lean from your description and I hope it is airtight now so no more damage happens, that is one reason I highly recommend using a vacuum test before running repaired saws, test the whole saw and the carb ,doing so prevents a lot of expensive damage after repairs.okay, thanks, that makes sense.
I have that metal ring in the intake boot... perhaps my gasket wasn't what fixed it. I did remove the fuel vent flap (inside the tank) at the same time. and washed the air filter with soap and hot water.
earlier it had symptoms of an air leak, or sucking air, where it would idle fast and erratic or die out, like when your tank is empty. perhaps my idle problem has been related to a failed gas tank vent and/or stiff fuel pickup all along.
when I first got the saw, the L was set at 3.5 turns (?!), and it would take 30 pulls to start; in retrospect, I guess that was done to compensate for the hard start, failing to realize that choke not fully closing in "start" position. the off/on/choke switch didn't fully close the choke unless held down. I recently bent the choke actuator rod so the choke is properly closed in "start" position now, and L is 1.5 turns.
Anyway, it was above freezing and sunny today; I ran a couple tanks of fuel through the 034 and it was running well for the first 4/5 of the tank.
Enter your email address to join: